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Pulse 3D Printers

• E

  NinjaFlex on a Pulse
  • erievon

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  I bought a spool of Ninjaflex recently and have not had any unexpected problems on my Pulse-XE.

  The parts I have printed with it using the profile for Matterhackers flex filament were good - not beautiful, but functional. I think it's tough to tweak it in to get high quality, but what I got was adequate.

  One thing I would mention is that I pitched the stock Bowden tube and replaced it with a Capricorn tube of much higher quality and tolerances - That is important for printing with Bowden tube printers and Ninjaflex - You don't want a lot of room in the tube for the filament to bind against the walls.

• 

  Pulse XE bed leveling
  • tinken

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  @intj123 I use no glue. Nylon adheres to exposed fibers on Matterhackers layer lock. After you remove your print, you must resand the surface.

• B

  Hotends for Pulse XE
  • bedellkw

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  @bedellkw I have both slice engineering and E3D hot ends. In my opinion, the E3D is better. The first time you get a clog in the hypodermic needle on the Mosquito, you will understand why I prefer E3D. I do not use a "stock" E3D. I have a E3D copper block, I use Sliceengineering heaters and p1000 thermo couplers and a titanium heat break. And I use a metalic nut on the threaded heat sink. To quick change the nozzles I use a nozzle t-wrench and a "thin" 16mm spanner to hold the block. With these proper tools, the nozzles are easy and quick to change.

  Use hardened nozzles only. If the nozzle becomes clogged, heat with a torch until cherry red. This will burn off the plastic, but ruin the tempered steel. With the cherry red nozzle, drop into antifreeze coolant in a metal tin can. This will re-harden the nozzle and you can continually use it this way.

• 

  Issue with my latest Pulse XE
  • DamianOfftheGrid

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  @cope413 Just to recap, when we started, the Z motors were dialed too high and acting up. Not sure if we determined why this was set this way...

  We then re flashed the firmware. PID calibration obviously is not working or providing us reasonable values...

  My first calibration gave me
  KP 7.74
  Ki 0.19
  Kd 79.95

  My second calibration gave me
  KP 9.29
  Ki 0.41
  Kd 53.00

  These kept the hotend 20c below the set temp no matter what I set it at.

  We then bumped those up to your suggestions (still not sure why a self PID calibration did not give us reasonable values)

  Now its getting higher but staying 3-4 degrees below set temp and fluxing heavily between 3-4c below set temp. This is with the nozzle even at HOME Z up and away from the bed.

  So what we still have is a lot of unanswered questions on why this specific printer is acting so strangely...to begin with.

  Spoke to David Gaylord and at this point, we both are just not sure why we are still messing with this printer when it clearly had issues early on....

• 

  Pulse XE morning suprise
  • DamianOfftheGrid

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  @cope413 Can someone ring me up for the parts I need to do a new snap hotted conversion...and a mosquito hotend as I'm sure this ones toast...unless I break out a blow torch.

• J

  Pulse E-432s OctoPrint
  • Jacob5421

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  You can use OctoPrint. We just don't have guides/instructions to do so.

  You can also use any slicing software you choose, but you'll need some different start gcode in order to use firmware leveling.

• 

  Help with upgrading my Pulse XE’s OEM Rambo board to a Fysetc Spide
  • kenchalk

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  Definitely don't use that firmware.

  I'd recommend modifying the current branch of Pulse firmware for the Spider board.

• D

  Pulse XE: How Clean Build Plate
  clean build plate • • Dcooper000

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  @dcooper000 I use a sharp spatula made for icing cakes.

• J

  Pulse E432s Firmware
  • Jacob5421

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  I also had a question on a separate topic about using octoprint with the pulse? If you know anything that would be great. And you mentioned that you have the duet electronics system, does this upgrade create better prints and if so how much was the upgrade all in and what components did you change?

• O

  Pulse XE - viki lcd light flashing purple?
  • OgD2P

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  @ogd2p your microSD card is likely not seated properly in the electronics board so it isn't able to boot up. Check that and it should resolve the issue.

• R

  Cura no longer outputting gcode that works with my Pulse XE
  • rjderama

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  What is your start gcode in Cura?

• C

  BLTouch activation on Pulse XE
  • CPat

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  @cpat The controls should be the same from Mac to Windows, but I cannot confirm this as I only have access to Windows and Linux versions.

• P

  Pulse XE series?
  • pthardy2

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  @pthardy2 depends on your printer. There should be a label on the back of the D frame near the top.

• J

  Pulse Xe with Azteeg boards --- Looking for some ideas to help get these things printing
  • jwalkerwade

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  It sounds like you have either a lose wire or a bad panda sensor. I would check this first.

  There is updated firmware available. You will need to contact Matterhackers support for this firmware. This removes the smoothieware and runs Marlin. I used this for awhile on my Pulse XE. It seemed to help, but I still had a few bugs I could not solve.

  I was tired of trying to fix these issues and I installed a Duet3D mini 5 board. You can find my modification on the forum.

• 

  Pulse replacement parts
  • Josephq00

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  https://github.com/MatterHackers/PulseOpenSource

• M

  BuildTak Bed sheets
  • mavin

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  You can put borosilicate glass on a steel Buildtak plate. Print PLA all day on that, doesn't wear out.

• G

  Suddenly Ryno will not adhere to the bed
  • gonzer

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  @gonzer I find that printing with the bed hot (75c-85c) ensures that the filament contours into the build surface, specifically the PEI, and I also disable the part cooling fan for the first 3-5 layers

• M

  Pulse XE maintenace
  • mavin

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  @tinken no disagreement overall, just making sure that issues are addressed in the most logical order. I'm hesitant to recommend things that aren't regularly necessary because I've seen some absurd things over the years - including people loading up with lithium or moly grease to the point where it gums up the lead screws/nuts and requires full replacement of the nuts and printed parts. A dry lube or a penetrating film type lube like you've described TinkSeal being would be much better options than a grease or oil.

• M

  Pulse XE Mosquito HE Nozzle Selection
  • mavin

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  From the spec sheets online, the mk8 thread length is shorter but it is still M6 diameter. Therefore, the nozzle will work as long as the top of the threads from the nozzle bottom out on the hotend heartbreak. If the nozzle shoulder bottoms out on the heater block, then a gap will exist inside the heater block causing the filament to leak out and flood the hotend.
  

• M

  MatterControl Calibration Library
  • mavin

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  @mavin Those are great until they clog. Hardened steel can be heated with a blow torch to burn out the plastic. Just make sure you quench it in antifreeze to retain it's hardness.