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Its most likely the wiring. Mine came without strain relief and wired in a way that the back and forth movement of the bed wiggled the connector and caused arcing and also eventually broke some wires So check for that with a meter
When I upgraded the bed from 200 X 200 to 315 X 315, using the 12v supply it took 12-15 minutes to heat to 60c.
By upgrading to another 24v supply It now takes 4-5 mins to heat to 80c.
Not sure but I think the bed is rated to 110c.
Thanks, I'll check that out! Yah I got this printer mostly for those types of filaments so that way I didn't have to mess with changing things out on my other printers to do it. Just trying to get it dialed in a bit tighter but I suppose I should be using the filament I got it for lol. Using some Ryno and Nylon X so far, as well as testing with some PLA.
I just need to figure this thing out and get it adjusted accordingly, it's close, but I'm need to do some more work
Thanks again for the replies, I'll check it all out.
Check the connector on the Rambo mini board. I had the same thing. Mine came with the bed wire just hanging out of the box without strain relief now your bed keeps going back and forth and with that wiggles the connector which starts arcing and destroys the connector on the board. Pull the connector off if the one on the board is cracked or discolorated or shows other signs of arcing than this is the problem. Also watch the led - if you set the temp for lets say 80 and it say less than 76 and the light is not solid but off or blinking then you have temporarily no connection of power to the bed. also check the power at the bed. when you are heating. Set it to 80 and put a meter at the bed while its heating up it should get close to 12 Volts. If it does not check the voltage at the power imput plug if its low there too then its cause the PS cannot keep up. the Rambo mini instructions states a PS of >16 amps and the Pulse supply is 15A so if you heat both the hotend and Bed you run the PS at 100% and over so that is not too good if you want it to last. If there is no strain relief and the connectors are still fine - put some strain relief there. The PS should be at 12V or slightly above all the time. If you have the PS with the Din type plut then each pin is rated at 7.5 A max and the bed draws more than that.
I am afraid we do not see the photo you are trying to upload, could you give it another shot?
Generally, you would want a first layer to look flat and "Squished" together.
I look forward to seeing the photo and helping out!
Suggest you call tech support on this. I know hobby king sells belts and they are sold as 3d printer belt cause seems like they all use the same size - but I'd call MH just to make sure. Otherwise mine loops through the bracket and flips ove on itself so its own teeth engage and you either got a bracket or a zip tie or something like that to keep it engaged
Have not done Nylong but sometimes that happens to me with other Nylons so...
1.) I print most Nylons with bed at least 80
2.) Big Brim
3.) Up the extrusion on the 1st layer
4.) Decrease the Z offset to press the first layer harder into the bed but not so hard that the extruder skips. If you just print one layer the sheet should not come apart at the layer lines.
I slice with SLIC3R and when I print with a .4 with .2 layer height I print the first layer at .52 and .96 layer width and turn the Z down at least .2 and that works most of the time. Also its summer and it might be humid so dry out some dessecant packets in the oven and 250-275 for 2 hours and throw them into the print dry so you are not blowing hot wet air around the filament.
Also would be interesting how the Gecko sheets work with Nylon Tried to ask a question here in another thread about that but no answer....
@lpinney motors (all of them) generate heat from being powered up.... BUT they cool off when moving due to air flow past the moving parts.
unfortunately if they stop moving the heat cannot dissipate and they heat up.... a problem with this is that the hotter they get the lower the coil resistance, more heat = lower ohms = more heat = lower ohms etc etc... otherwise known as thermal runaway.
ok so that explains the over heating... now its simply(???) a case of why has it stopped turning... something jamming it? friction or foreign matter in the extruder feed/ gearing?....
the flattened filament is probably simply due to the overheat which coupled with no movement causes heat deformation.
likely causes are blockages, foreign matter in the motor/ extruder interface (good posh word that is) or an underpowered motor.....
good luck with the search
Do you have a printer setup and profile for cura for the pulse? If you do can you possibly share it? I got one form Matterhackers last year but it sent my hot into the bed so I put the printer back int he closet again. Its been a year - so its time to try again....
No cause MC did not go down in the power failure only the printer as mc runs on a laptop with a battery. Here test as follows
Connect to Pulse with MC
Start a print
Unplug printer and plug it back in or turn it on/off like in a short power fail
Watch it crash as soon as the Boot screen disappears.
Problem is the printer does not say "Hey I am back up" and MC did not time out or something and just keeps sending Gcode as soon as the connection is live again.
Tried that - within 75 mm of center. If you tell me where I send you some STL's set to turn fan on if print time < 30 sec. Slice with a slicer of your choice tried to upload them here but it tells me I don't have the priviledges. they are 15 tooth htd pulleys. Or print 3 16mm tall 18mm diameter cylinders with a 13mm hex hole in the middle at least 2 in away from the edge of the plate as the edge does not carry the temp and set the fan to 100 % heck even 50 % does the trick. And just to make sure it isn't something melted on the hotend mount I reprinted that. when I installed the new E3D V6. Alternatively create a circular plate 196mm in diameter 4.8mm thick with a 29mm hole in the center 4 6mm holes on a 50.4 mm circle and 6 8mm holes on a 112mm circle and print it with a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layer height - sold (6 bottom, 6 top layers and turn the fan to 50 % and a nozzle tempt of 275 and roll the dice who is going to have a thermal runaway first the nozzle of the bed. So either there is something wrong with my printer or it just cant do it. The solution to this one is to turn the fan off and slow the print speed quite down. Heck this one even fails with PLA and the bed at 85 to get a heat resistent annealed dimensional correct pla sheet. It becomes particularly challenging with low bridges that need a fan on pretty much any material like this
Both will cause a Thermal runaway on the bridging when printed in HIPS (270 nozzle 100 bed) The 2nd item luckily can be printed on a 45 deg so there are less bridges (its 267mm lon and prints diagonally) the first one is 215x167 thereabouts and the first bridge section is 13mm off the plate. Only choice on that is set bridging fan to 10% and design it so its about 1mm lower than need be so you can file a lot of hanging stuff out to get it dimensionally correct. (first part also is about 180mm tall). So anyone know a change to the design that would allow better bridging and cooling - I am all ears. Until then this is just for anyones info. If you got a pulse and need to bridge at high temps close to the building plate or print small items - do it without a fan or with the fan at < 20% depending on distance from build plate. BTW both items are used in multiple configs on the "bumblebot" I posted here
The DXE doesn't have EEPROM - that's only for the 8-bit electronics.
You can adjust steps/mm on the DXE, but it's a different procedure. You just need to send the appropriate G code to change it.
Though, based on what I see, I don't think retraction is the issue here.
Give me a call or reply to our last email and we can troubleshoot the PLA issues in more detail.
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