@okimitch Make sure the heater cartridge and thermistor are seated properly MH has a web page with pics and I think a video on how to assemble it properly. Also make sure there is no filament left inside like black stuff on the back of the nozzle or heatbreak if it is you will form a Puck sooner or later and have a jam
Just wonder if they still sell it with a 15A 12V powersupply - if they do either get a bigger one or don't run it 24/7 with the bed at 90-100 and the nozzle at 270-280 you will fry the powersupply. Make sure there is strain relief on the bed wires where it comes out of the case so it does not tug on th connectors or you will burn those up. And don't replace the V6 heater cartridge with a 40W one if you have a 15A PSU etc
I watched a few youtube videos, its really easy to do. Just heat up your bed and slowly try and get the garlite bed off. mine broke in a few chuncks. I then let the bed cool and cleaned up the glue with 99%IPA, then take your magnetic base and remove the backing and carfully place it on the bed. As for the flexplate make sure when you put the garlite or other bed top that its 100% bubble free. I thought I got all of the bubbles out but once I heated it up after a few prints I went to clean the bed and heard a pop! A bubble. Great! I had to order a new flexplate and garlite bed and I will make sure to put it on slower starting on one side and working my way to the other. The old one still works I just try not to print in that back area of the bed.
I knew nothing about 3d printing but my research led me to the Pulse because of it's ability to do materials like NylonG and NylonX as I had a specific project in mind. I decided to load it up including the 32bit board and magnetic print bed and print dry system since I had the funds available at the time.
For a complete novice it came out of the box and worked, I was printing like a pro, there was a learning curve involved and some total failures but I complete that project on time. I like the printer, it's rock solid and the all metal hot end gives lot of flexibility when choosing filament. The magnetic bed means I have different print bed materials that I can change quickly and easily and I am screwing around with different tape and hair spray.
A year later I am still having fun but now I wish either MatterControl would be more flexible and usable like Cura or PrusaSlicer as working on face shields I don't have the luxury of setting layer by layer settings and the later versions of MC seem to lack even choosing a nozzle size. I have learn a lot with this printer and I like it still.
I am having some issues at the moment and I am sure it will all get worked out shortly. I can't comment on what the difference is between 8bit and 32bit sorry, but I like to up the game when buying new so took the plunge.
Would I buy another? Most likely, if I could easily use another slicer, definitely, I still have learned enough to deal with G code and modifying the code to use Cura at this point, not sure if Simplify3D is worth the money either.
MatterHackers has a blog post on how to use Cura with pulse. It includes a printer profile etc. Took me about five minutes to configure.
Simple fix and I should have check it before, but while I had the printer apart for the BL Touch prove issue, I took the filament out sensor apart and found the ball-bearing jammed by a stray piece of filament so the switch was jammed in it's trigger state of normally open.
This was after I confirmed the wiring harness was okay. Not to be lazy but a little light button in the software would be cool so you could have a visual of the switch operation.
Thanks for the help on this. I posted a reply stating II found my solution in using an existing filament profile instead of just winging it. Don't know where it went, but I'm sure it's floating somewhere here.
@kenchalk So the Pulse XE with the 32-bit upgrade is actually my very first printer, so I don't have a a benchmark to compare it to, but I can say I have had zero issues with it and am 110% happy with my Pulse XE.
@scottalford Make sure that while moving the printer around, you have not mistakenly grabbed it by the gantry rods. This may have bent them thus creating the problem that you are seeing. With the printer powered off, you should be able to move the gantry left and right without issue. Removing the belt and trying this is a good way to eliminate the motor as a root cause. Good luck.
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@mstange42 Thank you for the suggestions. This part was oddly shaped, this was the most optimal positioning to avoid supports in bores and things like that. I will play with the suggesting settings. Thank you again.
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