@codesardine Could be default settings - check Teachingtechs videos on coasting and ringing on youtube

@codesardine So use prusa slicer its a far superior slicer. I have dropped MC as a slicer a long time ago and only use it for bed leveling if I have to and there is no other choice

@codesardine Try a different slicer like prusa slicer and/or lower the layerheight to .2 and maybe up the temp a little. Dont do all of them at one. If prusa slicer does the same then its probably the printer

@codesardine Looks like layer adhesion problem. Whats the material, temp, nozzle size and layer height

Also hope you are printing with an abrasion resistent nozzle. Like a ruby or at least stainless steel

@thwclw I have capricorn on all my printers. First thing if/when I get a new one is put a capricorn tube on

@thwclw

The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too.

As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU

@thwclw this fixed the popping out for me https://pirringers.com/3dp/?cat=4 The problem is that the way its mounted there is an awful lot of strain on the tube mechanically As for pro PLA measure it with a caliper. I have not had great experiences with MH PLA and ABS. PETG is better but there are other better choices out there. They have been a good source for Taulman and E3D stuff though in the past