Guess it would entirely depend on quite a few factors. Like how big are they? What kind of functionality are you looking for? What kind of Material etc. Its kinda if you say I got a lot of stuff to get from A to B what is the best vehicle. Could be a car, a van, a truck, a tanker if its liquid or maybe an airplane or a freight train

Either that or the fan not blowing where it is supposed to - assuming you use the same filament as different filaments - even different brands of the same filament string differently at different temperatures. Some like it cooler than others and some need more fan than others and some like PETG and Nylon don't like fan at all etc

Are you guys going to do Volumetric E and variable layer widths anytime soon? And also fix the layer time estimation for small parts.

And while we are at it it would be great if each new version comes with a readme that tells you what was fixed and what was changed. So we don't have to call support for things like "where is the Z offset now" and "where is the supports option" etc. IOW when you remove, add or move something there should be something popping up saying "here is whats new in version ...." A Change log like any other software update does

I print with a .8 Nozzle and when I changed up after changing it in the printer settings I had to go close the program and go back in. But that was quite a few versions ago.

Also you know that slicing for a .8 nozzle a .6 layer height does not make much sense. I have never printed with carbon fiber but I assume the Nylon and pla around it does not melt any faster than regular Nylon or PLA or whatever. Now The fastest I got PLA flow on a V6 and still get a decent print is about 13 mm3/sec For Nylons its 8 t0 10. So if you use PLA and you are running it hot so you can get the 13mm3/sec that means printing MH PLA at 225 (slower and you drop to 11 mm3/sec) then your fastest print speed at .6 layer height will be about 26mm/sec (.8 * .6 is roughly .5 and 13/ .5 is 26). that means at .4 its about 40mm/sec. Furthermore tests have shown that the best layer adhesion with pretty much any material is between 25 and 50 % nozzle diameter so for a .8 its between .2 and .4. So printing at .6 makes no sense at all you get a crappier print with poor layer adhesion and even worse if you don't dial down the speed to above mentioned range I did a video on that

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kugqYO-Jang&t=54s

I Got a pulse C232 too

[0_1557797481934_Slic3r_config_bundle.ini](Uploading 100%)

Here is my config bundle - be warned that I use a .8 nozzle so if you import that and use a different nozzle you have some editing to do. The filaments preceeded with MH are Matterhackers the ones with HK are hobby king Bridge and 910 are taulman. Be also aware that most filaments have a max volumetric value set that too was tested with the .8 nozzle and I got a full all metal V6 .

As to work flow.
1.) select the proper filament and printer and print setting
2.) Load the STL (as I said if you load multiple STL's MC might die.
3.) Click Export Gcode in top right hand corner and save the gcode fiel
4.) on the computer connected to the printer (Does not have to be the same that runs SLIC3R) open MC and set a profile that is close at least in bed and nozzle temp so you don't have a potential cold extrusion if you pause a print or change filament.
5.) Instead of loading the STL load the .gcode file
6.) Hit print.
7.) It will give you a warning that you are running a gcode and that that might be bad - go run it anyway (I would not run someone elses gcode as it could have some nasty stuff in there like crashing the nozzle into your print bed etc. But its your gcode so you are not going to do that.

I think it either does the bed leveling when it loads the gcode file or on the fly but it will load a 25 mb gcode file in about a minute (on my Asus T100 Tablet with 1 gig of ram and a 1Ghz single core processor.)

Now you have 2 choices as to Z offset you can take care of that either in SLIC3R or MC you can still adjust the first layer on the fly by going into controls and hit the Z+ and Z- buttons as needed. If you want to print from an sd card you can export the gcode file from MC to another gcode file and check "apply bed leveling" and now you have a gcode file with bed leveling it will be much much bigger than the original one as MC breaks each move into multiple one to take care of the different Z offsets.

Known problems:
Multiple STLS sliced with any other slicer will crash MC.
IF you print a lot go out of MC every 3-4 prints - just close it - especially on a slow machine with little ram as it leaks ram and with each additional print it will get worse until you can have a cup of coffee in between gcode commands.

WARNING: Almost all my profiles use Volumetric E They are marked as something like Pulse C232 Volumetric 1mm Zhop as some filaments need the printer set different. Those have the Line M200 D1.75 ; Volumetric set to 1.75mm filament i
in the start gcode - that has to be run with volumetric E checked. If you are interested in why I use volumetric E and what it is then watch me here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kugqYO-Jang&t=50s

HTH

And just to make sure - I am just another guy printing and have no other connection to Matterhackers than sometimes I buy stuff from them

I slice in SLIC3R and then run the gcode file through MC for the bed leveling and that works better that way also you can slice things on another computer without chancing on messing with the temp of the nozzle or the bed mid print. So Install Slic3R set the bed to 250x220 and slice there then click Export Gcode in mattercontrol then load the gcode file instead of the STL and hit print. Works in most cases. MC still will die if you slice multiple object in a different slicer thats a bug as it cant handle having the Z go to the same number multiple times. But you can work around that by combining them either before you make the stl or combine multiple stls into a single stl. As a bonus you get the neat extra features like Volumetric E (The pulse works much better with volumetric E) and variable layer width etc etc. On the down side you add at least one extra step. Well at least until Matterhackers makes MC usable for bigger more complicated things or somebody figures out how to do bed leveling with SLIC3R

Rack and Pinion starting to come along Rack is a double rack to combat deflection reinforced with 1/2 al. shaft Will lift in excess of 100 lb on bench test Material for now Hobby King HIPS. Printed on MH Pulse on Garolite plate with E3D V6 hotend and .8mm Nozzle sliced in SLIC3R

I have done that and started doing that again. I just stopped posting feature requests as I felt they fell under the table. Besides I was told repeatedly to take the issues up with Tech support so they have my comments/suggestions.

My main issues to repeat them here with MC slicer are.
pu
Foremost you can't slice Volumetric. Marlin which the pulse runs on works much better in volumetric mode granted it won't make much difference if you print Phil A Ments but it does on gears here is a link to a video I made on that
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kugqYO-Jang&t=48s

Then you cannot specify layer width and that helps in combination with the extrusion multiplier with accuracy and layer adhesion. You see what we print here and on my channel all mechanical parts and gears gears and did I say gears.

Then the time estimates are off. Now its not that important when the part finishes but it gets the layer times wrong sometimes as much as +/- 60% and that impacts cooling when you print small parts.

And then I have yet to be able to slice a plate full of gears. I can slice a small number like 3 or 4 (IDK how many as I have stopped using MC for that for above reasons and this one) Right now for example I am printing 4 gears with 267459 facets each sliced in SLIC3R the gcode file is 56MB If I slice that in MC I can come back an hour later and its either dead or still working on it no way to tell. SLIC3R is not perfect it sometimes dies too (about 2x a week) but I can live with that.

Look I have no problem helping out and I have but my first priority are the Kids of FRC Team 1989 for whom all that printing takes place. We fell way short last season due to issues with the printer both software and hardware wise and you guys were helpful. Even though there are/were plenty of annoyances. But I am still helping out here, and with messages to tech support. My history on Github was not that pleasant I causes a lot of complaints in posting it in the wrong format, posting something in the Pulse group that should have been posted in the MC group and vice versa and posting there some stuff that should have been posted to tech support. Well I am just a customer and did not get the memo of proper procedure so now mostly I make it work somehow for myself, once the warranty is up I will make certain changes especially to the wireing and electrical to prevent future mishaps as we (the school and team 1989) have decided to not do anything to void your warranty even though that is a moving target too

But as I said so far we were able to work it all out and I am still here running about 5kg of filament through the printer for the school and the team and now using what I have learned to help people here and on other FRC related boards. And maybe this year we get the whole robot figured out and done in case you don't know we are printing among other things a full FRC style robot (125 lb weight limit, 32x28x60 inch or thereabouts containing about 25 to 30kg of filament) Of course its a system of reusable interconnecting parts. I will add some from time to time to the Something positive thread here

Nice - but I'd like to get the slicer working right first so I don't have to use 2 slicers to get good results one to slice it (SLIC3R currently) and one to add the bed leveling to it (MC). For us all the other features might become interesting if they are on a level to rival Inventor as we are almost exclusively do mechanical parts. Now if it had an Involute double helical bevel gear generator or a hypo cycloid gear generator I'd be a happy man as those are tough to do even in inventor or other cad programs

I had that and if you have the same screen I do then there are 2 connectors and if one is reversed or not plugged in right you will get exactly what you describe. also check the connectors in the electronics box. If you are not sure you might want to get them on the phone for that. But those display connectors are not of the locking kind and a tumble in the box in transit can dislodge them

But then you could have a bad part too. Electronics usually fails in the first 72-96 hours of running If it survives it usually lasts until somewhere to its designed MTF which is usually measured in years (unless something happens like a short or arcing etc.)

One thing you could check to see if its a display problem or something else is to connect to it with a computer with MC. The pulse will work without a display tethered to a computer. Then at least you would know where to look for the problem