If they are out you can roll your own with some Fiberglass cotton and capton tape kinda like the makerbots used to do
But as previously stated its not necessary - you might have to run a PID tune though if you go from insulated to non insulated
Mentor For FRC Team 1989. Retired (unfortunately for health reasons)
If they are out you can roll your own with some Fiberglass cotton and capton tape kinda like the makerbots used to do
But as previously stated its not necessary - you might have to run a PID tune though if you go from insulated to non insulated
@codesardine Could be default settings - check Teachingtechs videos on coasting and ringing on youtube
@codesardine So use prusa slicer its a far superior slicer. I have dropped MC as a slicer a long time ago and only use it for bed leveling if I have to and there is no other choice
@codesardine Try a different slicer like prusa slicer and/or lower the layerheight to .2 and maybe up the temp a little. Dont do all of them at one. If prusa slicer does the same then its probably the printer
@codesardine Looks like layer adhesion problem. Whats the material, temp, nozzle size and layer height
Also hope you are printing with an abrasion resistent nozzle. Like a ruby or at least stainless steel
@thwclw I have capricorn on all my printers. First thing if/when I get a new one is put a capricorn tube on
The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too.
As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU