If they are out you can roll your own with some Fiberglass cotton and capton tape kinda like the makerbots used to do

https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-3D-Printer-Makerbot-Extruder/dp/B076DH368Q/ref=sr_1_16_sspa?crid=10TTOB9ZRWC3U&keywords=fiberglass+cotton+hotend+insulation&qid=1643127901&sprefix=fiberglass+cotton+hotend+insulation%2Caps%2C52&sr=8-16-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWM1o0TUc3SjRMM1kmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4ODYxOTQ5SzJSS0hQN1dWQVgmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDU1NTk3MzI5MUo1MDdQTldYNUImd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

But as previously stated its not necessary - you might have to run a PID tune though if you go from insulated to non insulated

@codesardine Could be default settings - check Teachingtechs videos on coasting and ringing on youtube

@codesardine So use prusa slicer its a far superior slicer. I have dropped MC as a slicer a long time ago and only use it for bed leveling if I have to and there is no other choice

@codesardine Try a different slicer like prusa slicer and/or lower the layerheight to .2 and maybe up the temp a little. Dont do all of them at one. If prusa slicer does the same then its probably the printer

@codesardine Looks like layer adhesion problem. Whats the material, temp, nozzle size and layer height

Also hope you are printing with an abrasion resistent nozzle. Like a ruby or at least stainless steel

@thwclw I have capricorn on all my printers. First thing if/when I get a new one is put a capricorn tube on

@thwclw

The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too.

As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU