@borogove If your stencil is lets say 1MM thick and you print with .2mm layer height thats 5 layers so as long as top and bottom layers add up to 1mm (or more) it does not matter. Infill pattern will be used for the pattern youl use to fill those layers in. If top and bottom layers add up to equal or more than what the thickness of the stencil is then infill % has no bearing - IDK what slicer you use but it shouldn't give you an error so report it to the ones in charge of the slicer.

@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.

If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool

@vicanic MC is missing the G1 Z0.188 command. From what you posted there are no Z movements so its either a settings or a slicing thing. You could contact them. It also could be a bug.

Now I absolutely abhor the MC slicer but the bed leveling is nice so if and when I use it I slice in Prusa slicer and then load the Gcode into MC to apply the bed leveling. So yes you have that option and I strongly recomend it

@vicanic Check the Gcode or post it here The beginning couple layers and the end are interesting

@branbepic We only use PLA for something like this

IOW things that hang on the wall
This too has been printed on the Chiron too. All of our prints are done with a Volcano Clone and a .8 nozzle
The gears inside the wheel are Nyon 910 from taulman the Tire is TPU from Zyltech the rest curently is Zyltech ABS.

Here we Acetone welded it together

We are building a robot that will be 26 in dia octagonal on the bottom and 5 ft tall. All prints are solid pieces of plastic The frame has almost 9kg of ABS in it . The white stuff is styrofoam covered in bugscreen and paint to make a good base for some 8 an 10 oz fiberglass and probably some woven roving in places The gearbox and wheels will drive it. I got some kids working on the head that will be semi translucent PETG and look something like the logo above (hopefully) and others work on things like pylleyse

And other brackets and mounts. And 3 more gearboxes. at least . the whole machine should weigh 80-100 lb when done

@portisroads Most likely a problem in the Start Gcode or in slicing. Please post that if you can and maybe the first 20 lines or so of the sliced files - I'd say all of the sliced file but MH has some quite stringed limits on what you can upload here

@crazycabo350 Not all PLA are created equal. There are some PLA like for example Hobby King that print beautifully at 230. Now I think I used MH Build a long while ago and printed it at 220/225 range. I don't print a lot of PLA. On top of that it is known that not all printers report the temperature the same. There is some PLA like the one Anycubic sends with the printer that want to be printed at 190. So for each brand you will have to establish the proper print temperature for your printer. I would up the temp. For that reason - to establish proper print settings most will print a temperature tower to establish that

@branbepic No problem if it moves fine otherwise IDK maybe something with the probe. I took my probe of cause the way its designed or at least was (I got the C model) every time the print dislodges or curls up you loose the leg of the bl touch and that gets expensive quickly as you have to buy a new bl touch. So I level mine manual with a pice of paper. Not currently as its in pieces and waiting for some time to get an overhaul I got tired of the current electrical and other problems so its scheduled to be fixed in the meantime I use my anycubic Chiron mostly Its bigger, cheaper, breaks less and I print all kinds of stuff on it. Like for example some ABS
Or some Nylon (Taulman 910) Tire is TPU - wheel is 6 inch

Or here moving

etc

@branbepic Sounds like a bearing problem on the Z axis. Now it actually could be a bed bearing but you will also get that sound if the X axis is not level. To check get a known size block either print one like a 10x10x10 or get something else solid - not too big. raise the Z then lower it until the block fits all the way to the left under it without wiggle but that you can still remove it. then turn the motors off or turn the printer off. now place the block all the way to the right and turn the ballscrew on the right until inserting and removing the block feels the same. Now you know the X axis is parallel to the build plate and not conked to one side or the other. You can conk it if you had the head crash into a print or something and one z motor missed some steps.
Another thing could be no lubrication get bicycle or sewing machine oil and give it a drop. DO NOT use WD40 as that has also a sovent in it and will destroy any lubrications in the bearings. So if you ever used WD40 on your printer - there is your problem. And then beyond the dust or a hair in the bearing you actually might have a bad bearing. IDK if matterhackers sells them but if not Zyltech.com or Amazon are a good choice for it amongst others. I think the pulse uses and 8mm 4 start leadscrew if I remember correctly But better check that before buying and best if you can buy the nut/bearing from MH for the pulse