It used to always pop out not any more since I put this on
Its been solid for months now. I published it here
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3869433

Distance between Nozzle and bed affects adhesion even with perfect leveling you might have to play with the Z offset a bit to get good adhesion. You want the first layer to be pressed a bit into the bed so it looks a little flatttened - not too much so it makes ripples or is inconsistent or the extruder starts clicking. If you run your finger over the skirt it should feel more dome like than Noodle like. and then there is a 2nd important distance between raft and part - if you are using a raft if that one is too big you come off of the raft if its too small you don't get the raft off

Haven't tried it myself yet on the Pulse but on my CHIRON switching to a Capricorn tube made a big difference on all materials especially the more flexible ones. Its diameter is smaller and with that there is less wiggle room for the material.
I also had some problems on some low temp materials with them bunching up in the hotend if the ambient temp (in the room) was too high as the material started to soften before it got into the hotend and expanded and got stuck. So make sure the cooling of the heatsink is sufficient which is a combo between fan operation and ambient temperature

I usually print Nylon without a raft but with a brim. I have found that rafts with Nylon are fickle either the part comes off the raft or it sticks on it for good. Its very difficult to get the spacing and extrusion just right for a raft. But then I print mostly Taulman Nylons. Hope you figure it out. I use glue too but only for real big Nylon parts like >200mm

This looks like a very small part that means the hotend stays too long in the same area and cooks it. I have not printed Nylonx but plenty nylons and there is something like too small a part usually something that is smaller than an inch across. IF you want to print a small item like that you got to print at least 2 or 3 so the nozzle moves away and gives it a chance to cool down a little Theoretically you could try a little fan but that messes bad with layer adhesion and warping

You got your temp at 190 As far as I know TPU prints at about 240ish so its supposed to get stuck as you are trying to cold extrude. Look at the filament or the web page where you bought it from and it should say
Print temp from .... to ....
or print temp ... +/- 10 degress (i.e 240 +/- 10) that means print between 230 and 250
Before you print make an extrusion test go to control, wait till it reaches that temp and then extrude 100mm or whatever you feel is sufficient, change the temp and repeat - pick the temp where its nice and consistent

Make sure you do not have any invalid Gcode in your file. I have seen some have the problem with an invalid Mxxx command popping up from time to time

Thanks now the 64k question is - will it work on the robot. Any measurement off by a mm and the rack is going to bind. We will see how well the kids did

Now that school started we are hard at work on Bumble Bot to get it ready for the ERRF where we want to show it here is some of this weekends prints

We printed 2 of these this weekend and 2 earlier this week its a bearing holder for the Rack and pinion that will lift the robot up the 19 in stoop about 700g of filament each

And 4 of those rack assemblies 397mm long about 350g of filament each
Plus some spacers and gears I don't currently have pics of.
Filament HIPS .8 nozzle .9 outside perimeters 1.3mm inside perimeters 12 perimeters on part 1 7 on the rack .4mm layer height governed at 16.5 mm3/sec Volumetric Nozzle 255 bed 105 with a pastic sheet hung over it as a temp Enclosure. All in all about 3kg ($30 worth) of HIPS. Nice thing is it sticks to that bed with no aid. There might be a little gluestick left from the ABS print before that but probably not much after printing 4 of the same in the same place

Not printed that one yet but have heard of it. Why I asked the 2 PETG I printed MH-Build an Hobby king on both printers need to be printed at different temps (20c apart) to get same results so seems not all PETG is created equal. And wanted to use your data as a reference too