For that you'd need conditional Gcode and as far as I know MC does not support that. As far as I know the only free slicer that supports it is slic3r. There you do something like {if [layer_num] == 10}M104 S210 in the layer change gcode section. DO NOT DO THIS IN MC as it will put that line only parst with the layer num into the gcode and send it to the printer which will not know what to do with it. You have 3 options to do a heat tower

1.) find an existing gcode file and use it
2.) use slic3r with the conditional statements and write a gcode file and then use MC to send it to the printer (or do it direct from slic3r if its not a pulse and you have a profile or no other reason to use mc
3.) Write a gcode file from MC, use your favorite text editor like wordpad and locate the Layer (identified with a Layer nn comment so you can search for it) and insert a line
M 104 Snnn ; nnn is temperature
or you can use M109 instead of M104 the difference is that M109 will stop and wait for the Nozzle to reach the temp while M104 will continue on while the nozzle gets to the temp.

IMPORTANT. When exporting Gcode from MC if you write it to an SD card to be printed on the printer from SD card make sure the "apply bed leveling" is checked. If you intend to load it later back into MC and run from MC make sure you uncheck "apply bed leveling" otherwise you will apply bed leveling 2x and most likely will use the nozzle to engrave your part on your build plate.

Print a top open box so you have no infill with a known wall thickness let say 2mm thick then measure it and adjust your extrusion multiplier and slice setting based on measurements of the wall thickness with a caliper. An oval vertical hole is usually a sign of over extrusion. Also note that without support the top of the hole might get flattened and/or have droops Laying down holes on the build plate might suffer from "elephants foot". If your holes need to be absolutely positively dead on print them a little smaller (0.2mm or so) and add an extra perimeter and then use a drill press and a drill bit to make it sized properly. but for clearance holes for bolts getting your extrusion right is usually sufficient

This is currently still printing the flat spot on top is cause its being printed with a .48mm layer height (.8mm nozzle) .But its a clearance hole for a 1/2-20 bolt and so sized at 6.8mm and that little flat spot is figured in and does not matter. Sorry for slightly out of focus but lighting is bad and the thing is moving on the printer

I got mine last september. There is/was a learning curve. We put so far a little over 40kg of filament through that thing there were some problems mainly due to miscommunications as to the capabilities. Like from the literature at that time it was not clear that the temp max for the nozzle is about 280/285 for the E3D V6. True there are E3Ds that go to 400 but not this one. So that cost some thermistors. There was a wireing problem with the bed (the wire was not tied down properly in the electronics case so the movement of the bed back and forth caused arcing in the connector which damaged the connector.) But that all was fixed by MH (and I hope current models dont have that problem) there are some things I'd like to improve like the connection of the PTFE to the BodenTech extruder. The change I posted is right now in the 2nd kg of printing. The hotend/fan shroud could be better and some other things. But all in all we are currently putting 4-6kg of filament a week through that thing (with a .8 nozzle) printing mostly big frame parts. We (FRC team 1989) are trying to 3d print a whole 32x28x52 inch robot (not in one piece) including gear boxes, frame wheel mounts etc. We have developed planetary gear systems, rack and pinions, regular gears and are printing in Nylon (mostly Taulman as they partially sponsor us) HIPS (For frame parts and gear prototypes as its only $12/kg at Hobby King and way better than ABS) and PETG. Occasionally some PLA (working of getting the manufacturing process down to have it come at least semi annealerd from the printer and the finish anneal it with keeping the dimentional distortions within specs) . So all in all its working most of the time. And yes you will have to bed level once in a while especially when you change the bed temp quite a bit, The garolite bed we have holds on to anything so far (next test is going to be some flexibles and polypropylene and we got a roll of POM/Delrin donated). Well we learned how to take that thing apart if necessary and keep it running. So if you have any questions ask and just so you know I do not work for MH and don't get a cent if you buy here or not. I am just an Old Dude with a Pulse.

We got at the school an airwolf and a Makerbot Replicator + and I got a pulse. They all got something in common. Occasionally prints fail, Extruders, hotends get jammed and need to be disassembled, cleaned, parts replaced etc. All of them get used a lot as its a school setting and all of them produce nice prints most of the time but all of them need TLC if you want to call it that. Kinda reminds me of copy machines when they came out half a century or so ago. Guess the better question is as to which one is cheapest and easiest to fix and keep running in the long term

I agree with the power resume that it could be accomplished by keeping a log and maybe one day Marlin will do that.

As for adhesion I have not printed NylonX as I don't have a ruby Nozzle but with other Nylons. Most like to be pressed a bit into the build plate you have to see if it separates from the build plate or from the other layers of the print. If it separates from the build plate increase the bed temp and decrease the Z offset as you got to press the Nylon a bit into the plate for it to adhere kinda like PLA. If it separates from the rest of the print then maybe slow down the print (lower the mm/s in the speed setting in mattercontrol) and/or raise the Nozzle temp. It is important that you only try one thing at a time as otherwise you do not know what worked but printing Nylon is not too tough we have printed whole planetary gear boxes 150mm in diameter and 90mm high in Nylon on our Pulse You can see one of our Nylon prints in action here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zc8aCmlF_XU&t=29s

So try small and make some test prints that test layer and bed adhesion Print a stick upright I made one 5x15 mm and 80mm high. printed with a 6mm brim if it finishes you got good enough bed adhesion. If you cant break it layer adhesion is fine too. And one more thing on nylon I don't go above 50% nozzle width in layer height (i.e. .2mm on a .4mm nozzle)

I got a Pulse for almost a year - and it happened a couple of times to me and the only thing that works in my setup is when the computer looses power I was never able to recover from an SD card failed print. I assume your print is lost simply after that much time you most likely lost bed adhesion as it is cold now.

With the Nylon I can help. Get a garolite build plate and a glue stick and that works great with every Nylon I tried so far. Bed temp 60-95 depending on what Nylon you use and how big the part is the bigger the higher the bed temps seems to work for me. Make sure you slow the print down enough with Nylon if you want good layer adhesion (8-10 mm3/sec max with Taulman bridge and 910) and if yo'u have a small nozzle don't exceed 30mm/sec anyway.

To make sure - I don't work for Matterhackers I am just an old dude with a pulse lol

Maybe a solution from this keeping occuring

before install

I'd upload the stl but do not have enough privileges. It hsd littlr tinhd that are .2mm smaller than the ptfe tube od to grab on and dig in a little. You probably can take a little off if you have a capricorn tube that has a smaller
OD. Matterhackers sent me one as they were out of the other and it does not work in the extruder at all due to its smaller od. Some other tubes are a little larger so you might have to be careful as to how much you tighten down. I use 2 M3 screws with Nylon locknuts that are embedded in the plastic (designed "dead on" to require a press fit) The material Is MH BUILD PLA printed on the pulse with a .8 nozzle at 11 mm3/sec max speed .2mm layer height, 220 C Nozzle temp and 85 bed with an enclosure and something else printing with it to make the print last 2 hours. That means it comes annealed of the build plate. the bottom of the clamp is based on the C clip that usually goes there 3.9mm diameter as I have a slight underprint on that setting and 1mm height printed in 5 layers with the first one slightly higher for adjusting for being squished into the build plate as the first layer. The whole thing was sliced in slic3r and then printed through MC for bed leveling. So far it seems to be working fine. Comments welcome

Got an email back from Bondtech with a link

https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/push-fit-collar/

Its getting worse. The PTFE tuve keeps popping out the BondTech extruder C clip stays in place I have replaced, trimmed, cut multiple PTFE tube happens every 2-3kg of filament or about twice weekly. I assume the little black thing that has the teeth on it to grab the PTFE tube is not grabbing anymore the way it ought to be. MH don't have them and don't know where to get them so I am asking if anyone knows who sells them

Hi.

Some slicers now support the feature of volumetric printing or at least allow you to set a max volumetric parameter. I will discuss the difference and what it does for you and how you can do it manually if your setup does not support it.
Each hotend/nozzle combo has the capability of properly melt the filament at a certain rate. E3D will not post tables as they are different for each filament and each temperature and each nozzle but the info below is based on discussions with them. So for example the hotend will have a different rate to melt PLA at 210 than at 215 and a different brand of PLA might be different and that is all with the same nozzle the value might change again if you go from a .4 to a .6 or .3 Nozzle so to get the value you have to figure it out yourself to do that you have to send some G commands to the printer to extrude some filament.

1.) wait until hotend heats to desired temp and load filament and extrude some to get rid of whatever was in there before.
2.) Type G91 into the terminal so you do not use absolute values

3.) Repeatedly type in G1 E50 Fnnn; (nnn is a speed)

This command will extrude 50mm of filament enough to build up pressure and give you something to look at. nnn is the speed in mm/min so F60 will extrude at a speed of 60mm/min or 1mm/sec.

IF you have 1.75mm filament than the cross section (r2*PI) is 2.4mm2 so each mm of 1.75nn filament is 2.4mm3 of filament so a command
G1 E50 F60;will extrude filament at 2.4 cubicmm per sec.
G1 E50 F300. will exturd 12 mm3/sec

You pick a start value that you consider safe and start going up after each time you inspect the filament extruded. IF it starts to get bulges or balls or you hear the extruder starting to click or after the extruder stops filament still poors out the hotend for a couple of seconds then you are going too fast and go back to a speed that gives good results. Then deduct 10% and lets say your calculated value is 360 then your max volumetric throughput is 360/60/2.4 = 14.4 mm3/sec You enter that in your slicer. Now on a ,4 nozzle it might not matter as your max speed might be the max speed your printer is capable lets say 60mm/sec if you print .4 wide and lets say a layer height of .32 which is the max suggested then each mm you print will have 0.128 mm3 of filament if you print at 60mm/sec then you will extrude 7.68 mm3 of filament which is about half of what you can . So if you go to a .8 nozzle and you have a slicer capable of reducing speed based on max mm3/ sec then it will perform a calculation like that. Assume .96 mm extrusion width and .6mm layer height then each mm extruded will have 0.576 mm3 of filament with our 14.4 mm3/sec max extrusion you will get a max speed of 14.4/0.576 = 25 mm/sec if you drop the layerheight to .3 you can move at 50mm/sec Either print with either layer height due to the different speed will take the same time so now you pick the layer height that is best for other reasons. If you have a layer height too high for the speed then you will get the before observed extrusion problems and a crappy print. Now that explains volumetric max.

Volu,etric printing is done by the firmware where the slicer sends the E(xtruder) values in mm3 insted of mm. How for example marlin seems to work is that when you send a command in mm
G1 Xxxx Ennn Ffff
then that means extrude nnn mm while moving to xxx at speed fff and marlin will divide it out in volumetric the command
G1 Xxxx Ennn Ffff
Is interpreted to extrude nnn m3 over the same distance while moving at speed fff which means you extrude the same amount of filament for each mm or fraction thereof over the distance. this eliminates to a great deal thickening and thinning of walls due to acceleration and deceleration and give more accurate better prints. There are 2 slicers to my knowledge that support that one experimental (cura) and one official (slic3r) In each you have to enter (For marlin)
M200 Dnnn ; S0 or S1 etc if you have multiple extruders otherwise for 1 omit
nnn is the thickness of the filament
so
M200 D1.75 ; Turns volumetric on for 1.75mm filame M200 D0 turns it off
DO NOT enter this unless you are using a slicer that supports volumetric and is set to volumetric mode as there is a huge difference if you extrude 10 mm of filament or 10mm3 of filament as for 1.75 mm filament 10mm3 are about 4.2mm of filament

Bottom line even without any slicer support for volumetric extrusion or volumetric maximums knowing about them you can use them to determine the proper max speed for a particular filament. You probably will not need to if you are only printing PLA with a .4 nozzle or smaller but if you use a larger nozzle and/or get into other filaments especially (semi)flex establishing those limits can make or break a print