For a couple bucks more he can get a Creality Ender3 or Anycubic i3 Mega and they have metal frames and the instructions are good and assembly is easy

Here is a link to a post about our off season event today
https://www.chiefdelphi.com/t/bumblebot-brunswick-erruption/365693
For those who don't know bumblebot is a 30x30 in FRC style robot that is 3d Printed

@pverdin Try to close the gap - You want to direct all the air right under the nozzle where the filament comes out and no where else

@pverdin No fan on nylon. You can manually turn the fan on in MC under options I think and see if air comes out by the nozzle. If it doesn't you have a problem. Also make sure that under cooling you got the fan running probably close to 100% with PLA except on the first layer

@janetjackson Why? what makes one better than the other?

There is an "other Printer" or so selection - select that and then put all the info in like bed size, home position etc

To rule out a hardware problem do a test print with a filament you used before

@zoromer I guess we will see

Tall and thin. Its nice to print functional things like this cover in 1 piece. 392mm tall. Printed on the Chiron. Material HIPS .7mm nozzle .32 layer height 1mm layer width throttled at 16.5 mm3/sec nozzle 255 bed 105. All stock except I replaced the PTFE tube with a capricorn high temp one as I did not trust the one that came with it to do 255 C 24/7. The Capricorn has lasted for over 2 months of use now some nozzle changes and inspections and no visual degradation. The CHIRON has a V5 clone hotend with the PTFE going to the nozzle. overhang in the back is 49 deg came out fine too with no supports. The plastic you see is a 3mil sheet that is draped over the printer and the print dry as an "enclosure" to keep the "chamber" temp during print at about 50 C there is a channel underneath the bed to exclude the electronics from the "chamber" for the fans to push the cool air through to keep the electronics cool. Oh and sliced on prusa slicer (otherwise it be kinda tought to throttle volumetrically and do the layer width thing)

As far as I know its more involved. You probably will have to change the home position and go to a standard marlin setup and mess with some of the hardware/wiring. IOW turn it into a true Prusa I3. Here is a video that might be helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3udmA24OF8