@plew You need MC for bed leveling but not for slicing. So slice with whatever and then instead of loading the STL load the Gcode file generated by the other slicer and run it from MC. If you run it from the sd card - at leas my pulse - does not have filament out detection and power resume etc. If your head starts over sudden high - delete the printer and create a new one - not a big deal if you are using a different slicer for slicing. I personally liker SLIC3R/Prusa Slicer as it has a lot of neat features like Max volumetric E and you easily can configure layer width. Keep the layer height between 25 and 50% nozzle diameter and the outside perimeter at 110% nozzle diameter and if you use a genuine E3D nozzle you can go on the inside perimeters and infill up to 200% of the nozzle diameter. (speeds up printing) If you use a nozzle >.5 read these tutorials about establishing flow
Mentor For FRC Team 1989. Retired (unfortunately for health reasons)
Posts made by mpirringer
RE: constant re-calibration
RE: BLTouch wiring help
@doubledave You will have to cut the wires when you replace the dupont with a JST. You can get all the connectors and a crimping tool (unless you already have them) at amazon or similar. If you google SKR mini... and Bl touch wiring - you will see pictures as to how it goes.
RE: constant re-calibration
@plew you shouldn't have to recalibrate. Only if something on the bed changes but you might have to adjust the Z offset from time to time especially if you are switching material. Now PETG I don't print unless I put blue painters tape on the bed. You get things wrong with PETG it might become a permanent part of your build plate - tape you can always scrape off especially if you make it wet. Now MC is wonky. I use Prusa slicer to slice and do all my settings and then load the gcode file it generates in MC and have it apply the bed leveling. So I can leave all offsets alone as I figured them out once
FRC Team 1989 at the VERRF
We will participate on Oct 10th and 11th on the VERRF (Virtual eascoast RipRap Festival)
Here is our video
And here is your ticket (please be aware channels will be mostly dead until Oct 10th/11th
RE: Tough PLA questions
Your questions are not that easy to answer. "Tough PLA" is PLA with something else added to it to make it "tough" which usually means either more impact resistent at the cost of tensile strength and sometimes with increased temperature stability or other properties. This usually changes the print characteristics like speed and temperature
1.) You should not exceed the manufacturer suggested print speed then 40mm/s in this case is the max IOW 30 is fine but 50 would not. That speed is usually dependent on how fast the material adheres to the prior layer
2.) You also should not exceed the max extrusion speed that your hotend/extruder combo is capable at a certain temperature see here as to how to establish that https://grabcad.com/tutorials/dialing-in-a-filament-and-specifying-the-max-volumetric-e-xtrusion-value
3.) The 3rd max speed would be the one the mechanics of your printer can handle.
To determine your max speed take the slowest of the ones above. So for example my printer can reliably move without producing artefacts at 60mm/s the extrusion test showed the hotend can melt that particular filament (nylon) at 45 mm/sec the manufacturer suggest 20mm/se so 20mm/s is the smallest so that is it.
Flow rate compensation is something to adjust for expansion of filament when it comes molten out of the nozzle or to adjust for a spool maybe being mostly 1.77mm instead of 1.75 etc and that is dependent on the filament. You make a test print if the top layer looks like "noodles" lying next to each other with little gaps between them then its too low if you see nozzle tracks like it "plows" through its too high. A little plow might be ok if you are shooting for a very solid part over a very beautiful top layer
RE: J-Head to E3D Hotend
@tmitch205 Depends. On the Jheads that come with the Anycubic Mega/Chirons the Volcano is a direct fit size wise. Now E3D uses Thermistor type 5 and some jheads do to. Some (And some V6 clones like the ones from Gulfcoast robotics which work as well as the original V6 with the same shortcoming) use Thermistor Type 1. Also Jheads are usually not all metal and in the firmware set to a max temp somewhere between 240 and 260. If you go to a V6 you can up that temp a bit in the Firmware. But if you only print PLA/PETG you can drop it right in unless the thermistor type is different Now thermistor type 1 and 5 are similar but if you run a 5 with the 1 table you are going to run it about 20C cool and if you run a 1 with a 5 you are going to be about 20 C hot - so its manageable but if you were printing PLA at lets say 215 the new temp might be 20 C more or less to get the same results
RE: New RamboMini motherboard
@neutronken It will do it again and again that is why mine is apart.
1.) The wires from the bed need a strain relief otherwise the connectors on the board wiggle back and forth as the bed moves and arc and that melts the connector. etc. your mosfet is probably fine but the connector is shot - the only way to save it maybe is break the plastic out, clean up the studs and solder to it.
2.) You will have the same problem on the power input only it will take at least 2x as long. The problem is the Pulse runs at 12 V and has only a 15 Amps PSU (where the rambo website says use 16A minimum at 12 V. Plus you need heavier wires to the bed if you run it close to 100 and wires that are high flex silicon insulated and 14 gauge or less so they dont get hot plus it should run underneath it with a drag chain.
3.) You'd be better off to replace the PSU with a 24 V 15 A. or at least 24 V 10A but most are 360 watts or so. For that you will have to replace the heating cartridge and fan on the V6 and change the wiring on the bed.
4.) It is also suggested that there is cooling on the mosfets both the one for the bed and the Hotend IOW the case should have at least a 5010 fan or better blowing across the board to keep the heat down. Cause if you run the pulse like me (Bed 100 hotend 260-290) then some areas of the board will get quite hot.
So to make the Pulse a sound printer it needs at least a 24V PSU, 24V hotend, an electronics case with a fan, the wiring properly run to get rid of the "birds nest effect" And a different hotend mount preferably not done in Ryno that does not either cause a thermal runaway on the bed or the hotend when you run the printer hot as described above
I am also working on an enclosure for mine, and change the mount of the extruder and put the filament on top of the cage and change the hotend mount with one with a better fan.
So II think the only thing that might stay original is the extruder and the frame and the X/y/Z motors and mounts