@dennolan I just made an account to confirm this 100% works, I'm a new user currently without home internet and I downloaded this to replace tinkercad, I was about to just move on to the next program until I read this. Thank you!
Hi all,
12 month hiatus on printer use, and I'm experiencing the same pain as I'm reading through here.
I think most of my questions are answered, but I can't find where the auto-level enable is? Can anyone help? Thanks!
@pverdin Good Idea. Was printing some prototypes today and for that I usually use filament that I either bought very inexpensive or got for free. It was a reasonably large part - going through the iterations - About 1/2 kg of Filament. So one iteration I printed in Hobby King ABS that I picked up for 4.87/kg looked real nice except its a hideous color. The Other was a spool of Free Prusament PLA I got at the ERRF 2019. That warped all over the place. So I will also stay away from PLA.
Well the problem with the T10 is no longer a problem, as the replacement has arrived, and working OK.But I do have a problem that I cant figureout.The nozzle just keeps pushing into the bed, no matter what Z offset I put in.I will try to reload Marlin to see if the problem is with that.But any suggestions will be much appreciated..Thanks
Pro's and Con's.Pro's, in general it is a great system all round, I love it.Con's, the main one for me is the fact that I can't use the Bluetooth keyboard, the Android one Sucks big time, hides up some of the things you are trying to change.The size of the adjustment buttons, is a major drawback which the Bluetooth keyboard would fix, needed if you have large fingers, or a lady with long nails.This is being sold as a going product, so it should take priority, over the free Mattercontrol, as far as I am concerned once you sell it in what type of form, it is no longer free. Would anybody buy the blank tablet.If anything turns me away from this it will be this factor.
Ryan,I have sorted the probe problem, it seems it did not like two statements at the head of the start gcode, namelyM10y64 S and M104 S, removing these solved the problem.Other problems are with the support, these do not break away very well, they were ok before this update.Also fixed in the earlier update, the bluetooth Keyboard, does not work in this later version.Also mention earkier opening files in the cloud, does not work on the T10, but ok on the desktop computer.The next two problems are most likely settings, so if someone could give me an idea it would be great.Flat surfaces on the bed print very rough, walls are fine.Printing tube, the bottom few layers swell out to a height of around 3 mm.Tried to load the gcode file as a zip file but it did not work, so will send it via email.
Wow.
Whatever changes you made to the slicer in 2.19.2.10169 sped up the slicing majorly. A 1562 layer slice too me about 12 mins compared to the over 30 mins it was taking me with the OLD version 2.18.1.10116.
Compared to 2.19.2.10157 a couple test slices that took about 50% longer, it's about 50% shorter in 169 just as my extra large model. I can now slice and reslice when exporting for the moment. Hopefully all of my test slices will come out as fast.
And thank you for fixing the Memory Bug I reported!
That turns out to be true, but it does not alter the fact that the given figure of 0,6 recommended in the help file, is misleading, a more appropriate figure would be 0.1.
@CDNBACON
The patch was not released to the Stable build yet so you will have to update to the Alpha version of the software to get the patch.
Let us know if you do happen to still have issues after upgrading to the Alpha.
Thanks!
@erniehatt The key to alignment and subtraction in MC is to first align the parts, then select "flatten" from the right side panel. This is the icon with the two arrows. This will remove the align function from the history, and will ungroup the objects, but will leave the objects aligned.
Then reselect the two objects, click on subtract, and select which item to subtract from the dialog box.
In this video at 16:00 I show you how to do this with a cube and a cylinder.
https://youtu.be/vIA71tSpTC8
Once I figured out the nuances of MC I found it a nice middle ground design tool between the sophistication of Tinkercad and Fusion 360. (Closer to Tinkercad)
Hope this helps.
Have not done Nylong but sometimes that happens to me with other Nylons so...
1.) I print most Nylons with bed at least 80
2.) Big Brim
3.) Up the extrusion on the 1st layer
4.) Decrease the Z offset to press the first layer harder into the bed but not so hard that the extruder skips. If you just print one layer the sheet should not come apart at the layer lines.
I slice with SLIC3R and when I print with a .4 with .2 layer height I print the first layer at .52 and .96 layer width and turn the Z down at least .2 and that works most of the time. Also its summer and it might be humid so dry out some dessecant packets in the oven and 250-275 for 2 hours and throw them into the print dry so you are not blowing hot wet air around the filament.
HTH
Also would be interesting how the Gecko sheets work with Nylon Tried to ask a question here in another thread about that but no answer....
Sorry. We tried to replicate your issue using our Flashforge Creator Pro, but we were not able to do it. Maybe there is some difference between the Flashforge and the CTC that we are not aware of. Without having one here for testing, there is not much we can do.
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