You wash off the Mean Green with Water first and let it dry before curing right? I found that Mean Green cleans very well, but it leaves residue. Pretty bad.

Odd, my response didn't get posted.

The thing to do is just separate the models. If I manually separate the models and load them individually, then align them it prints perfect.

Bug report submitted.

Are you ever going to fix this? Over 2 years ago I asked about this, and was put on the list to take care of. But it still is not fixed in the latest release. If there are multiple object in 1 file/STL it automatically does a screwed up XOR like thing. I am still having to separate each object into separate files, load them, and then align them.

Yes.
I have an old version of 2.19 and the newest alpha/beta on it as well.

You just have to install it in 2 different folders and make sure you are not signing in to the cloud for the settings. Everything has to be stand alone.

Ive had my Pulse (Not the XE) for a year and 4 months now. The printer itself is solid, once you get past the normal 3d printer newbie issues. Ive printed PLA, ABS (Which works if you build an enclosure), PETG, and TPU. Most of the issues I have (and had) were/are filament cause, and then nozzle cause. The other main issue I had was general wear and tear having to replace my PTFE tube that was causing the prints to under-extrude since the filament couldn't be pushed through, and my Thermister wearing (which was an easy replacement) at the same time.

As for Mattercontrol: It really is not a good slicer currently. I use Slic3R for many things now for a better slice and then load the GCode and print through Mattercontrol. Doing this I have not had problems with bed leveling either. Though I still use an old version of Mattercontrol for most of my prints since it has decent supports (new version DONT).

Overall once you get it setup and running good, it is a good little workhorse.

As for your concerns about warping, this is a filament issue not a PULSE issue.
The hotend mount is really the only thing could use a bit of an upgrade to make it tighter and easier to access, but it's nothing to complain about.
The fans all work great for me, I take them off and clean them every few months with no problems.

If you are proficient enough with MC you can probably get the stuff to work, but I'll be honest, just don't. MC sucks for model modification/management to the max. This includes its slicing of multiple meshes in the same object. Get free program that has good mesh/model control and management. Export your object (or objects as multiple stls with the same origin point) and then import (each and align) in MC.

I use Blender, but there are others out there.

mpirringer got that one on the nose there. Though they have fixed most of the memory leaks in the newer version.

If I run the same print without reslicing I can run it forever without a problem.
Though after several slices I restart MC. If I don't the computer runs slow and older versions crash.

The thing is, MC (at least older versions) don't take advantage of anything over 8 gig of memory. The computer I run it on has 16, but MC never uses more than 6.9 gig. It just starts having issues after it uses up its allotted amount.

For my thermistor I have to replace mine about every 6 months along with my PTFE tube, about 1000 hours of printing give or take pending on material. For your hotend, make sure you are using the correct one (12 or 24 volt) as incorrect one would cause issues all around.

As for the fan, it sounds like you have your setting way too low. Speed -> Fan -> Turn on if Below. Default is 60 seconds, but on different material it works better at a higher setting.

Also check your Cooling settings and adjust as needed there to help.

That looks like the Interface layer is still on the object. As the object print itself should never look like that. You should be able to pull some of that off. However with such a large flat area trying to be supported in such a way it will probably never turn out good. You would be better off rotating the part and finding a better option for printing without the support/interface layer being directly on the object itself. Though without seeing the actual model it really is hard to give any more than basic suggestions. Though general rule of thumb is to avoid supports if at all possible.

The one thing I learned is that with a wider nozzle, you need a larger gap. I only use PLA when I need supports, for other material I can't really help with. So I keep my Air gap about .05mm larger than my nozzle. A .4mm nozzle I set it at .45mm air gap and it works pretty well.

Make sure to also keep your nozzle temp at the lowest you can print well with and your bridging fan speed at 100%, this will keep the the parts from sagging and melting into the interface layer. Also, test your bridging to make sure it is optimal. For me its about 30mm/sec instead of the default 25.