If you are proficient enough with MC you can probably get the stuff to work, but I'll be honest, just don't. MC sucks for model modification/management to the max. This includes its slicing of multiple meshes in the same object. Get free program that has good mesh/model control and management. Export your object (or objects as multiple stls with the same origin point) and then import (each and align) in MC.

I use Blender, but there are others out there.

mpirringer got that one on the nose there. Though they have fixed most of the memory leaks in the newer version.

If I run the same print without reslicing I can run it forever without a problem.
Though after several slices I restart MC. If I don't the computer runs slow and older versions crash.

The thing is, MC (at least older versions) don't take advantage of anything over 8 gig of memory. The computer I run it on has 16, but MC never uses more than 6.9 gig. It just starts having issues after it uses up its allotted amount.

For my thermistor I have to replace mine about every 6 months along with my PTFE tube, about 1000 hours of printing give or take pending on material. For your hotend, make sure you are using the correct one (12 or 24 volt) as incorrect one would cause issues all around.

As for the fan, it sounds like you have your setting way too low. Speed -> Fan -> Turn on if Below. Default is 60 seconds, but on different material it works better at a higher setting.

Also check your Cooling settings and adjust as needed there to help.

That looks like the Interface layer is still on the object. As the object print itself should never look like that. You should be able to pull some of that off. However with such a large flat area trying to be supported in such a way it will probably never turn out good. You would be better off rotating the part and finding a better option for printing without the support/interface layer being directly on the object itself. Though without seeing the actual model it really is hard to give any more than basic suggestions. Though general rule of thumb is to avoid supports if at all possible.

The one thing I learned is that with a wider nozzle, you need a larger gap. I only use PLA when I need supports, for other material I can't really help with. So I keep my Air gap about .05mm larger than my nozzle. A .4mm nozzle I set it at .45mm air gap and it works pretty well.

Make sure to also keep your nozzle temp at the lowest you can print well with and your bridging fan speed at 100%, this will keep the the parts from sagging and melting into the interface layer. Also, test your bridging to make sure it is optimal. For me its about 30mm/sec instead of the default 25.

I think I finally figured it out.

I tried to get it working again tonight and it clogged up inside. When I pulled the ptfe tube out I noticed it was extra hard. So for sh**s and giggles I changed it out with the extra piece I had. And now it is working like a champ and just like I expect.

If the problem comes back I will let you all know.

So I am assuming these should probably be replaced every 1000 printing hours or so?

I am at a loss.

I have a Pulse D-111, upgraded to a full metal hot end.
I have been using .4mm and .25mm nozzles (New, old, Genuine, Cheap...)
For all of this I am just using PLA. I have tried expensive and cheap brands, 3D Solutech, Hatchbox, MatterHackers Pro, and an expensive one that I cant think of the name off hand.

My extruder pops because it cant push the filament through. This happens when I have retractions, and with the .25mm nozzle when it is doing it pre-print expunge. I also can not always just push filament though without it popping either with this nozzle. This also happens when I am using a .4mm Olsen Ruby nozzle a lot, usually after a retraction and move, but not during expunge. I am using the same settings I have used since dialing in my printer with the new hotend having NO problems. But now I do.

I have no problems printing with my .5mm cheap nozzle that I print a lot of less detailed things with, but these also have few retractions except moving from part to part.

It acts like the material is wet when it pops the extruder and I then get under extrusion, as when I have wet PLA it does the exact same thing, and usually is the only way I know my PLA needs dried. But this isnt the case as I have used a brand new roll, and dried filament.

What it 'appears' to be doing is the filament is cooling on the tip.

At first I was thinking it was my nozzle getting clogged. It happens on a rare occasion so I cold pulled several times on my Olsen .4mm. Didn't help.

Then I thought it might be the fan which was dirty or the heatsink just not keeping it cool enough do I cleaned EVERYTHING, except the inside of the hotend which is not really possible.

Then I thought, okay, maybe when I cleaned it up a couple months ago I ended up getting the nozzle too far down. So I reset the nozzle and hotend placement. But still does the same thing.

I also check to see if I screwed up my filament settings somehow, but the diameter and density are both correct in all the settings I have tried.

So, I am wondering if my thermister is going bad in some way, or maybe the inside piece of the hotend.

So, as my first line, I am at a loss. I don't know what to do to get this to work right. I don't want to spend any money and it just being a waste.

Slicer Settings work fine, at least for me, both Material and Quality.

When you open the Setting to edit them, you can click on 'Duplicate' to make another copy of the settings.
To change the name can be a bit tricky.... Click the Pencil Icon next to the name, then change the name, and click out of the box (Anywhere except the save button... This is key, otherwise it may not change the name), Then click the save button.
All of the other settings you change will automatically be saved.

4 Things to note...
When looking at your selected settings. First, any setting you change in either Quality or Material can be anywhere in the Slice Settings.
A Yellow Line on the left of the setting means it is set in the Quality settings, Orange is the Material, and Blue is Manual/Override User setting.

Also note, Manual User settings will often Stick with that selection of Quality Settings so make sure you check your settings if you have manually changed stuff.

So for your issues, I would say check to see what color the setting is coming from and edit appropriately.

The Export Settings option exports the Quality and Material Settings. If it exports printer settings anywhere I have not seen a way to import them. And it will only import a single setting at a time, at least with the version(s) I am using. I have not checked the latest.

A Side note with the Settings. If you are connected to the Cloud with MC/Matterhackers the cloud automatically saves all of your settings, Printer, Quality and Materials.

I just wanted to say that they have fixed my purge issue, and I am waiting for the Alpha to come out to test it. Can't wait, as the rest I have seen has fixed everything I had problems with in the previous versions.

Here is hoping!

I've never had a problem with the slicing itself, especially after learning why I got bad prints and other things. Just happened on the reason I was getting print shifts on the Z here recently and everything has pretty much fixed itself. It has been the program itself that has had consistent problems.

I hope most of the bugs from the previous release are fixed as I see at lease some of them are, however this another version that I can not use. I know this program can be better than this, and this is 90% a disappointment response. And this is even worse for me because of all the wonderful help I have received from Michael and Eric at Tech Support.

(I will post later at home, as I don't remember my github pwd)
When it does its original purge it stops at the end of the purge and pools a little then it moves around, usually back near the X,Y Origin, then goes to start the print. When it starts the skirt one of two things happen, first it is clogged. The second is that it doesn't start the skirt, then eventually goes after 2 to 3 inches of movement. When it does this it usually has strings that hold on and pull around. Then this stringing screws up the first brim edge or perimeter of the model.

I printed 3 items with this version. The first went okay... had the stringy problem but just pulled it off by hand. Second item it clogged on me twice and stringed out a couple times... But I finally got it going...

Then the third...
I tried to start but got tired of the ridiculousness of retrying to get a good first layer... So, I went back to the old version I have been using (2 stable versions back).... I started it up, went to bed leveling and it F'd it up. The X,Y starting point for the Mesh was off thanks to the new versions settings and cloud sync. It dove into my bed on the 5th point because the Y was off and just caused havoc from there. I am not sure why but it also decided it needed to try and move the Y direction again and pulled out my drive belt. Thankfully all items were manageable.

So I went back to the new version having spent another 45 minutes resetting things up.. and then another 20 minutes (give or take), until I finally got a good first layer.

So my question now is this,

Since this program is the only supported slicer for the Pulse, how is it that having issues in this, and the previous version are acceptable? These are not stable/release versions, these are at best, Beta versions.

Last night, if it had been 10 minutes earlier I would have been on the phone with tech or sales support, and I guarantee it wouldn't have been pretty as I was ready to send my pulse back because of this. When you have a product that essentially relies on another product to work, you cant have a nonworking piece, and for the past 4-5 months, that is exactly what there has been.

Thankfully from previous experiences, I knew how to handle the issue and am now running back on the old version successfully with only a pit in my buildtak at the area I rarely print at. And I admit, I should have known better than have my syncing on in the new version so it wouldn't have F'd up my settings. I also admit for the last few weeks I haven't been looking to see if there has been a beta version to test, as honestly I really haven't had the time.