It's literally not possible to have it knotted on the spool like this off the extrusion line. The filament is a continuous piece and is continuously wound on the spool. There's no way it can loop under or around itself.
You can test this theory by holding a length of filament with both hands. Without letting go of either end of the filament, try to tie a knot.
This occurs when loops of filament get loose and are allowed to cross each other - almost always on new spools when the windings are close to the edge of the spool.
When you get new filament, be careful not to allow the slack out of the spool. Hold the end of the filament and feed it into your extruder as soon as you release it from the new spool and you shouldn't see this happen again.
@HAMprinter has the idea of it. We can't know all the possible things that might need to be adjusted for a given quality or material, so we allowed the entire set to be considered. It can add some confusion and clearly they are not all relevant, but we have seen some unexpected benefit from having the larger set.
@ssweat bedankt! het is me gelukt eindelijk. het was wel even zoeken, moest echt alles verwijderen wat er maar van MatterControl op de PC zat. maar het is gelukt THX
It may be that your x-carriage has come up and is not pushing the limit switches. I think Z can only move up when the switches are triggered. There were a few different designs so it could be something else but it is almost definitely the hardware.
If you don't see the problem there you can export the terminal log and post the bits where you are moving the axis. That way we can see if the z axis is being told to move down.
Hello, cisco I here and ready to help to print your project We have the 3D printer machine thus solve your problem here.
3D printing is a collection of technologies that all try to answer a question, "What is the best way to make any individual physical object layer by layer?" With 3D printing you usually make bread sawdust by slices.
The technologies all work differently, but one of the most common FDMs (Fused Deposition Modeling) works with a printing head fed a plastic filament (usually ABS, the same plastic made from Lego ).
Visit my website to check our clients print
@mark8967 I have had the best experience with keeping it at 100% and increasing the layer height for the first layer and reducing the Z offset and with that achieve pretty much the same. Remember all the printer does is move the head and spit out filament at a given rate so increase the layer height for the first layer means more filament , decrease the Z offset brings the nozzle closer to the build plate so the filament gets forced / squished more into the build plate
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The confusion around scaling a cube and also changing it's size is something we are hopping to address in the future.
