Have not done Nylong but sometimes that happens to me with other Nylons so... 1.) I print most Nylons with bed at least 80 2.) Big Brim 3.) Up the extrusion on the 1st layer 4.) Decrease the Z offset to press the first layer harder into the bed but not so hard that the extruder skips. If you just print one layer the sheet should not come apart at the layer lines. I slice with SLIC3R and when I print with a .4 with .2 layer height I print the first layer at .52 and .96 layer width and turn the Z down at least .2 and that works most of the time. Also its summer and it might be humid so dry out some dessecant packets in the oven and 250-275 for 2 hours and throw them into the print dry so you are not blowing hot wet air around the filament. HTH Also would be interesting how the Gecko sheets work with Nylon Tried to ask a question here in another thread about that but no answer....

Yeah and you get a packet with every roll

Thanks Mate, I am not sure about the garolite, I would assume that the heatbed would have to be pretty flat, and that's unlikely, unless you attach it on the glass plate, that would be somewhat pointless in my view, I do not have much problem with adhesion, I use hairspray.

Turned out to be a gliche in the data file, cured this by deleting the AppData\local\MatterConrol data, and reinstalling the program, all is now back to normal. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for letting us know what fixed it. I will make sure we address that right away.

@tinknocker I suggest you call tech support on that. Maybe they have a solution for that. I would like to know if you get the SD printing working right cause that might help me too. For now I have dedicated an old laptop for that to run it tethered as the printer is very busy printing for the school and there is little to no time to mess around and experiment

@mpirringer Thanks for the in-depth response, I will give this a try but not today, not enough time today. I will let you know what I find.

Hi Jacob, The DXE doesn't have EEPROM - that's only for the 8-bit electronics. You can adjust steps/mm on the DXE, but it's a different procedure. You just need to send the appropriate G code to change it. Though, based on what I see, I don't think retraction is the issue here. Give me a call or reply to our last email and we can troubleshoot the PLA issues in more detail.

on my other computer I got 10328 and that one works too. See if you can upgrade to that

Slicer Settings work fine, at least for me, both Material and Quality. When you open the Setting to edit them, you can click on 'Duplicate' to make another copy of the settings. To change the name can be a bit tricky.... Click the Pencil Icon next to the name, then change the name, and click out of the box (Anywhere except the save button... This is key, otherwise it may not change the name), Then click the save button. All of the other settings you change will automatically be saved. 4 Things to note... When looking at your selected settings. First, any setting you change in either Quality or Material can be anywhere in the Slice Settings. A Yellow Line on the left of the setting means it is set in the Quality settings, Orange is the Material, and Blue is Manual/Override User setting. Also note, Manual User settings will often Stick with that selection of Quality Settings so make sure you check your settings if you have manually changed stuff. So for your issues, I would say check to see what color the setting is coming from and edit appropriately. The Export Settings option exports the Quality and Material Settings. If it exports printer settings anywhere I have not seen a way to import them. And it will only import a single setting at a time, at least with the version(s) I am using. I have not checked the latest. A Side note with the Settings. If you are connected to the Cloud with MC/Matterhackers the cloud automatically saves all of your settings, Printer, Quality and Materials.

OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.

Depending on how its orientation is you might have some serious overhangs. When you print you need supports which require post processing (sanding, grinding etc) if you have overhanges >45 deg. unless it lays flat like a coin you are going to have some serious cleanup to do at the ears and nose and eyebrows etc if you look closely at my version of the head you see the dimples on the chin which are from supports which were cleaned off after that pic was taking

Yeah I know how that goes. I have been building industrial controllers in the lat 70s through the mid 90s and then written software for anyone willing to pay until I retired recently and now am working with FRC team 1989 at the local HS. I just want that thing to work all the time as it is our only printer atm. And I know we are probably pushing it a bit beyond what it was intended to do even though according to sales it can do way more. But for when the software works and something don't break we are running 4-7 kg of filament a week through that thing (mostly HIPS, ABS, Nylon.... PETG in that sequence of quatity). you probably seen some of the things I posted. What I'd really like is a failsafe. That you put up a version somewhere to fall back on. 2.19.2 was at least workable for us with a little help from SLIC3R. And we have already come to accept that at that usage and running it 24/7 at temps between 270 and 280 you kill a thermistor every 6 to 8 weeks and a heater cartridge every 3 months would be nice if you'd find a way to but some higher rated thermistor/heater cartridges into the V6 on a pulse but thats another subject I guess It does print nice benchies and Astronaut Phils in PLA though

Looks great

@larsbrubaker said in Subtract & Subtract and Replace: You probably need to download and install the Visual Studio Redistributable from Microsoft. This is installed on most computers but it is possible yours does not have it. You can find it here. I also recorded a gif of how it should work. If this is what you are doing, but not getting the results you expect, it is probably that you need to install the redistributable from Microsoft. @67exec Hi Did you see this? I had the same probelm, Lars responded here, found your problem today. The Vis Redistributable worked.

Thanks. The Panucatt guys had me change the Baud rate in my config file and mattercontrol from 250000 to 115200 and that resolved the halt issue. Viki2 still not displaying anything. Will continue troubleshooting.

Thanks. Appreciate the suggestions. I really don't need MC for bed-levelling as mine has automatic hardware-provided levelling. I've been using S3D but wanted to try MC2 because the update cycle is much faster. I supposed I could look to adding it - we do have access to the source code after all (or at least we used to) - but with so many other things taking my time...

Tried that - within 75 mm of center. If you tell me where I send you some STL's set to turn fan on if print time < 30 sec. Slice with a slicer of your choice tried to upload them here but it tells me I don't have the priviledges. they are 15 tooth htd pulleys. Or print 3 16mm tall 18mm diameter cylinders with a 13mm hex hole in the middle at least 2 in away from the edge of the plate as the edge does not carry the temp and set the fan to 100 % heck even 50 % does the trick. And just to make sure it isn't something melted on the hotend mount I reprinted that. when I installed the new E3D V6. Alternatively create a circular plate 196mm in diameter 4.8mm thick with a 29mm hole in the center 4 6mm holes on a 50.4 mm circle and 6 8mm holes on a 112mm circle and print it with a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layer height - sold (6 bottom, 6 top layers and turn the fan to 50 % and a nozzle tempt of 275 and roll the dice who is going to have a thermal runaway first the nozzle of the bed. So either there is something wrong with my printer or it just cant do it. The solution to this one is to turn the fan off and slow the print speed quite down. Heck this one even fails with PLA and the bed at 85 to get a heat resistent annealed dimensional correct pla sheet. It becomes particularly challenging with low bridges that need a fan on pretty much any material like this bolded text or this Both will cause a Thermal runaway on the bridging when printed in HIPS (270 nozzle 100 bed) The 2nd item luckily can be printed on a 45 deg so there are less bridges (its 267mm lon and prints diagonally) the first one is 215x167 thereabouts and the first bridge section is 13mm off the plate. Only choice on that is set bridging fan to 10% and design it so its about 1mm lower than need be so you can file a lot of hanging stuff out to get it dimensionally correct. (first part also is about 180mm tall). So anyone know a change to the design that would allow better bridging and cooling - I am all ears. Until then this is just for anyones info. If you got a pulse and need to bridge at high temps close to the building plate or print small items - do it without a fan or with the fan at < 20% depending on distance from build plate. BTW both items are used in multiple configs on the "bumblebot" I posted here

No cause MC did not go down in the power failure only the printer as mc runs on a laptop with a battery. Here test as follows Connect to Pulse with MC Start a print Unplug printer and plug it back in or turn it on/off like in a short power fail Watch it crash as soon as the Boot screen disappears. Problem is the printer does not say "Hey I am back up" and MC did not time out or something and just keeps sending Gcode as soon as the connection is live again.

My Garolite sticks to the aluminum plate of my printer and is probably 1mm or 2 thick it seems to be machined. Now I still bed level. The MC software does that. So it works pretty well main complaint I had with the auto bed leveling is that if a print curled it ripped the leg of the BL touch off and that is an expensive joke. So I canned the BL touch for now and do a 9 point level manually with a sheet of paper. In your case you'd probably stick it to whatever your glass rests on or if that does not work you can bet it stuck to a piece of spring steel and use it like a flex plate