Kindle Fire HDX 7 was released in September 2013, with some very decent specs like 2GB of RAM, 16/32GB of Storage, 7.0-inches in size with 1200p resolution, Qualcomm Krait 400 Quad-Core 2.2GHz processor, running Android 4.x most probably what they meant was Jelly Bean.
I have consulted a couple of people here and the answers are pretty consistent. The instinct is to recommend a nylon or polypropylene for the appropriate strength and flexibility. However, the size of this model as you described is the chief concern. It is extremely difficult to truly make a recommendation without seeing the model itself. Not everything can be successfully 3D printed and not everything that can be printed for use in an actual application. If you can provide the model or a picture of it, we may be able to give you some more concrete answers and recommendations.
Home on a printer is usually defined in the firmware. So if you issue G28 it goes to its firmware home position which is defined by its limit switches and the firmware knows if it goes left,right,up,down,fwd,back to got "home". So you can't redefine home unless you change the switches and firmware (DON't unless you got a real good reason and really know what you are doing) After the printer is "home" you then can use G0 Xnnn Ynnn Znnn where nnn is a coordinate to go whereever you want
So for example my CHIRON homes at -5,0,0 so outside the build plate. Now there is a small chance to mess up in case the Z stop is below the build plate and I find it less of a problem to maybe slightly scrape the build plate as i watch the first layer instead of having a crash so I do something like
g1 x-5 y0 z5
and then after some other stuff
G1 x0 y0 Z0
to start my purge
But every printer is different so when playing with Gcode you got to make sure you account for the mechanics and program accordingly
Full extrusion ahead - all of our printers busy turning about 3kg of HIPS into the basic bottom part of the frame also known as the skateboard. This particular part when finished will consume about 530g of HIPS and mate a toughbox mini gearbox and a 6 inch wheel to the rest of the Frame. CAD and STL and lots of other stuff here
The current frame is in the Frame05F directory
Probably not all of them For a while they had a special going where you could create a profile for a machine they did not support and send it to them and they gave you something but that feels like ages ago. So some of the profiles might have been created by someone like you and me. Creating a profile is not that tough. Go and define the bed and print areas, and the home position and write some start and cleanup gcode. I made a profile for the Chiron. For the mega you probably could start out with an ender or a CR-10 or prusa and change the bed size and make sure the leveling probe is set to manual
You are going to make sure both are properly grounded together and you will need a mosfet (solid state relay) to control the bed. Make sure you get one that can handle the current. Also if the bed is 300 Watt make sure the 320 on the PSU is a continuous rating and not peek. In general I don't like to constantly push a PSU close to its limits
Probably not. Have not tried it with NylonX but all other nylons I worked with have no problem with it. If you go past the glass transition temp on any material for extended time some annealing might be going on. This most likely wont be a bad thing. It will get a bit stiffer. Annealing - depending on the Nylon will start at about 90 C. You can go as high as 140 with Nylon 6 or 12 as the melt point is at about 170-180. If you exceed 90 C its important that you leave it in the printer until the bed and part cools to room temp. Especially if you have an enclosure. If you "rip" the part of the build plate at lets say 110 and put it in the cool room it most likely will cool unevenly and warp a bit.
Your problem is that most likely the Nozzle is not tight. Check the proper installation instructions for your hotend. It could also be the the threads got stripped. If you have a hotend where the PTFE tube goes all the way to the nozzle, take the PTFE tube out. Check the end make sure there is no damage and its cut straight. Then turn out he nozzle 2 turns, insert the PTFE tube all the way then tighten the nozzle to the specifications of the hotend. If its all metal check the assembly instructions. Nozzles will get loose after some printing and then you get leaks