When I previously wrote Heater Block, I meat Heat Sink. The Heat break screws into the below unit which are different sizes:
It really depends on what you are looking to do. It is hard to recommend a machine otherwise.
Feel free to give us a call at 949-613-5838 or email us at Support@MatterHackers.com. We would be happy to discuss your needs and see if we can find a machine that best suits you!
Thanks for the reply.
When I did step 3 above, I used the wiring from off the printer.
Tried again and the motor and wiring work fine.
I am looking a the main board. 5V supply is good, 15V motor supply is good.
I think I am going to try and look at the DIR and STEP pulses next.
You seem to have a couple of problems there seems to be some Z offsets stuck someplace Its software . Th Z26 and Z27 should make it print 26 and 27 mm above the plate assuming the plate is 0. If its 36 mm you still got a 10mm problem somewhere
Here is what I would do
Run that gcode
G28 ; home all axes
G0 X5 Y5 Z1.2 F1800
G1 X230 E50 Z1.2 F900
This should lay down a purge line replace the [temperature] and [bed_temperature] with the apropriate temps or ommit those lines if you set and reached the temp already - we dont want to have a cold extrusion this should dump a line 1.2 mm above the bed if you want on the last 2 lines you can change the Z1.2 to whatever. Make sure you enter those lines in the terminal of MC so it does not add the bed leveling or Z offset. It sheould echo back Ok ....
If that works I would create a new printer and see if that helps or call MH tech support and ask how you can remove an old "stuck" Z value. The bed leveling feature of MC is nice to have otherwise I'd say try SLIC3R or cura and set up a custom profile there
@richmarbury said in is there a new formulation for the Build Series Black PETG:
d to bump the extruder temp up 10 degrees to get even close to the quality of prints that
i had with previous rolls .I bought the 4 roll special ,I hope the other rolls behave more like my previous purchases.
We have not recently changed any manufacturing processes with our material.
We would be happy to get that spool looked at and further assist here.
To do this, please reach out to us at Support@matterhackers.com with the following information:
Temperatures being used
Measurements of the material using calipers
We look forward to hearing from you and helping out!
please help me , i am facing same problem and i have already connect the connector according to you, my stepper motor and driver are working properly with another axis but not with extruder
i am using ramps1.4 and arduino mega2560
@bigdady1979 said in To do or not to do:
Ask for online support via creality3D websites and Youtube videos for there are enough answers. Aliexpress and Amazon shops have ender 3 spares which you could check detailed upgrade files with pictures.
Depending on how its orientation is you might have some serious overhangs. When you print you need supports which require post processing (sanding, grinding etc) if you have overhanges >45 deg. unless it lays flat like a coin you are going to have some serious cleanup to do at the ears and nose and eyebrows etc if you look closely at my version of the head you see the dimples on the chin which are from supports which were cleaned off after that pic was taking
My Garolite sticks to the aluminum plate of my printer and is probably 1mm or 2 thick it seems to be machined. Now I still bed level. The MC software does that. So it works pretty well main complaint I had with the auto bed leveling is that if a print curled it ripped the leg of the BL touch off and that is an expensive joke. So I canned the BL touch for now and do a 9 point level manually with a sheet of paper. In your case you'd probably stick it to whatever your glass rests on or if that does not work you can bet it stuck to a piece of spring steel and use it like a flex plate
Thanks Mate, I am not sure about the garolite, I would assume that the heatbed would have to be pretty flat, and that's unlikely, unless you attach it on the glass plate, that would be somewhat pointless in my view, I do not have much problem with adhesion, I use hairspray.
If your issue is edges you can buy a 30 dollar heatsealing iron on amazon. Set to around 120c and it will soften but not melt the droopy edges. They come with a nonstick surface so it wont stick if the temp is low.
Then find yourself a polished metal rod and lightly rub the edge while cooling and it will shine up.
It takes some practice so try on scraps first.
There are other methods using heated vapors but they can be extremely dangerous.
Google "vapor polishing" and I am sure you will find the process