I don't think I can be of much help there as I do not have that printer. But it sounds to me like your Z-offset is off. I'd level the bed and then start at maybe 0 and work myself up or down with the Z-offset until I get a good first layer.
Well, we have a lot of questions here. We need to know the following to help you:
Settings on filament:
Pictures of problem:
That would be the start of what I would want to see to best help you out.
You are going to be looking at using ASA, it is a UV resistant version of ABS which should hold up to most interior vehicle heat conditions. Getting too cold it not too much of a factor, at least not with any tests I have seen.
Past that, you would look to Polycarbonate as that would be the same material that your car dash is made of.
If you have the info I'd be interested in
A.) How does it compare on mechanical parts to PETG if you anneal it and what is the temp resistance if you do or hotprint it
B.) How does it survive as a gear. We use mostly Bridge, CX12 and 910 (in order of volume) Nylon is great but under high torque sometimes has too much give (910 the least CX12 almost as good) advantage of Nylon is too that it is slippery. PLA has less give but not all PLA's are equal. We have access to a makerbot replicator and in a 200rpm test after 2 min the teeth were pretty much ground off using Makerbot PLA. Using MH BUILD PLA it "lived" for about 6 min before being in the same state, Hobby King PLA about 7. HIPS was stopped after 15 without any visible damage and used for the whole season without visible damage (about 2hours of running) problem with HIPS is that if you get close to 1000 rpm it starts to get hot from friction and you get damage this way. Nylon we ran for extended periods at 6000 rpm so question is any idea if that PLA is better in that regards than HIPS?
Unless you want a clear coat like XTC3D, then I do not think there exists a method in which you could accomplish this. The question comes down to a clarification of what kind of blemish are you trying to cover up?
I took a look at one of our Enders, I see what you mean by the leveling screw spinning freely, I am not sure how much of an answer this is going to be but it looks like the screw is threaded into the bed, so removing the leveling knob and tightening the screw its self should work. It looks like on our printer we have the flex plate system from Creality, so I cannot see if there is a screw head on the top of the bed or not.
Setting the E-Steps is really not all that hard, I am not sure what the firmware is for your printer but, in the most basic sense, all you would need to do is open up the firmware and edit the standard E-Steps from what is loaded to 415.
Can you provide some more information on the printer and its firmware?
Our experience so far (hand breaking under as much controlled circumstances as possible) Seems to support at least some of what you say. The main reason I am printing with a .8 is the extra strength. As to layer height I find it deteriorates about .4 (50%) on the .8 and also below .2 there seems to be a sweetspot at about .32 at least it feels like that at least when it comes to HIPS. ABS and PETG. Most Nylon we need to print at .2 or .24 for accuracy sake. Now printing at .32 Layer height is just as fast as printing at .4 layer height at least for anything except HIPS as the max speed at which the material can melt becomes the limiting factor. We got a big boost in layer adhesion and print quality by going and slice with SLIC3R and printing with volumetric E. On layer height there was also a video put out by CNC Kitchen lately that supports this only it was done with a .4 nozzle on a prusa and with filament I don't use so informative but not overly helpful but interesting for anyone using PLA. Also try printing some PLA with an enclosure and an 85 C bed and then test it (make sure you print enough that the print lasts at least 2 hours and don't open the enclosure until after the bed is at room temp. Also take and perform a heat test on it afterwards - you can use MH build PLA for that)
BTW I sent you an email with other info.
For the most part, the Orange material should work about the same as the Black without needing to change settings. It is possible that the material is absorbing moisture which can cause the results you are seeing currently. If you could drop us a few pictures I could determine if moisture is part of the problem.
Speed should not affect the print as you would have had to make those adjustments for the black material as well. Drop us a line to Support@matterhackers.com as well if you have not already and our techs here will help you out.