So I have been on bit of a off time with my printer after getting rather frustrated with it. Well I started it up again to see if I could resolve this issue and one more question I have is, is there a way to make the print bed reference 0,0 on the bottom right of the screen instead of bottom left? I have flipped around my motor and played with reversing motors in the firmware but nothing seams to change it.
There is very little in the way of information for printing support materials for PET-G. It might be an idea to give HIPS a try because of the temperature similarities. It may not yet be possible to have a washout support material for PET-G just yet, if anyone has tried it feel free to let us know!
Thanks Michael,
I am still using version 1.7 for my printing, but have the version 2 on the desktop, which I am going through trying get used to it.
I will play around with this to see what I get, where do I find how to set an array.
Cheers.
@moparman
I have been seeing a few more people reach out to us and say that they have been unable to use the function. So far no one has been able to show me the issue only describe it. If you could take a short video and upload the STL's used to me at support@matterhackers.com then I can have a look.
Thanks!
Hey @erniehatt
There are a few options for setting up more probe points or custom ones, take a look at this:
The menu you are looking for is going to be under Printer>Features>Leveling>Leveling Solution.
Hey @albion1
I have not seen anyone try burning out the PLA molds before, I have seen a lot of talk about it but I do not think I have ever seen someone actually complete the process. I believe that Black PLA does have other fillers in the material but carbon would be the highest quantity by weight.
Natural PLA should have no fillers in it for color so that may actually be a better option than a clear PLA. I would investigate that a bit further.
Let us know if you do end up finding a good solution to this question!
Hey @tommegna
I would love to be able to help you but you need to provide us a little more information to start with, pictures would be a good start.
From there if you could describe any differences you are seeing in the printer, any noise or odd movements.
Thanks!
Hey @Voc007
It looks like it is possible that those wall separations are located on one side of the part so it is possible that there is something going on with cooling or bed level. I would say to check the cooling first and from there we may want to take a few measurements.
Do you happen to have calipers that you could use to measure out the wall thickness of the separated area and the opposite side? We may find that both walls are the same thickness or something that could point us in the right direction.
Hey @Mojeska
It brings us joy to hear that there are more and more schools adopting STEM and STEAM programs. Those kinds of programs are what got some of us through school!
I like to recommend the Creality machines like the CR-20 as they are really cost efficient and for the most part simple to use.
The CR-10's are always a good choice as well with them being more basic in terms of options. Our Sales team does know where schools tend to lean to in terms of printers better than I do though. I might recommend to give them a call for just gathering information.
@michael-petitclerc said in Help with improving print quality- droopy layers?:
Hey @llamathefuzz
That looks a lot like you might have to adjust the cooling settings in Mattercontrol or make sure that the part cooling fans are actually functioning. I would say to set them to always be on for starters but otherwise I would ask if this happens on other spools of material.
I have not heard of that brand of material before so I am approaching it as part of the problem until it proves its self to be good.
Other options could be the nozzle, if you were using any abrasive materials and switched back to PLA then the nozzle diameter may not be the size you believe it to be.
Just a few starting points to take a look at.
Thanks! The brand of the filament is 3D Fuel. https://www.3dfuel.com/
I think you might be right on the cooling. This printer has never had good part cooling. After updating the hot end to the V6, it only has a single fan on the heat-sink of the heat block. I'm probably going to print a mount for another fan to cool the parts. Also, it could be this spool of filament. I'll try it with another brand. Thanks for the reply.
Hey @humper0891
Is this stoppage always in the same spot or is it in roughly the same area? This is a very important distinction as if it is the exact same spot that would point towards the G-code but if it is a rough area then that may be hardware related in some way.
This can be solved in a few different ways but it is important to know which is happening. Do you mind dropping us a picture or two of the failed prints so I can better understand what we are looking at?
Thanks!
Hey @crchisholm
While I do not have this information on file we can find it for you. Would it be possible for you to drop us an email at Support@matterhackers.com so we can log the request and find that part number for you?
Thanks!
I recommend you to buy raise3D pro2 dual extruder 3D printer as it's more pocket-friendly and inexpensive 7dollaressay website review and for more stability and reliability as you said above go for Ultimaker 3.
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