Thank you for your answers
Taulman Bridge and 910 nylons seems popular and successful with mechanics, but the color mostly white and almost semi-transparent, I'm looking for medium shade grey, turquoise, beige and skin colors, color and its combination important, because peripheral elements in my project shows the operation process in an open form. First I want try Grey PRO Series Nylon Filament, most important thing is warping problem, because I have oblong, thin and tiny parts, which is completely successful with NylonX in all respects. If carbon fiber does not plays a key role for this requirement, Grey PRO Series should work fine, this filament looks similar to the grey color I'm looking for
If you write to gcode file then its saved in there as comments. To my knowledge MC does not have a feature like SLIC3R to load settings from a gcode file. You can save different profiles like "MH Build PLA 04nozzle no support" and then start off with that and change the support settings for example and save it as ".... with support" etc
I think you might run into problems with PETG as the temp is pretty close on the border where it makes sense. To have It snap and not break I would use either HIPS or a Nylon. Probably Bridge or alloy 910 if you need something harder. IDK if your printer can print HIPS and Nylon. But that would be my first choice. HIPS does not go soft up to about 100C and Nylon even higher
That is a great question.
I would say try to open it up in MatterControl 2.0 which can be downloaded from mattercontrol.com.
MC 1.5 is extremely outdated and likely had a bug in the software which impeeded opening larger files.
I kinda agree with you on that even though it might be borderline. I have tested Bridge, 910, CX12 in a toaster oven. Bridge started to loose mechanical integrity at about 300. CX12 and 910 survived up to about 375. The test was to heat a 50x50 tube that was 100 long printed with a 4mm wall a .8 nozzle 1mm layer width .4 layer height governed at 8mm3/sec. A tube was placed on a solid surface and hit with a hammer after printing and they did not deform and then they were heated for over and hour starting at 250 and then quickly taken out of the oven and hit with the hammer. as I said at about 300 Bridge deformed and stayed deformed. Interestingly CX12 at the end started to crack as it seems to get a bit brittle when completely dehydrated. Whereas both bridge and 910 performed better in completely dehydrated state. OTOH CX12 is the hardest of the 3 and probably the toughest under normal room temperature condition and also a little tougher to print. Maybe that is cause CX12 claims to be true Nylon whereas both bridge and 910 are an alloy. I also tried some inexpensive true Nylons some refer to as "Fishing line" And those need to be rehydrated before use (wrap them in a wet towel after printing if you believe in the slow method or drop them into a bucket of water for 24 hours or boil them the boiling is the fastest but you risk over hydrating them which can mask print flaws for a short period like poor layer adhesion and then when it stabilizes the problems show up (like poor layer adhesion due to under extrusion as an example) This probably in a water hose would be less of an issue. I think it would be quite interesting to see how far you can push Nylon in that. And his question was with his printer. So I might restate it that way "With his printer Nylon might give him the best chance of success even though its probably not advisable - but it would definitely be interesting to find out" .
The first thing you will want to note here is you will need a hardened steel nozzle to properly print with abrasives like carbon fiber materials as the abrasive characteristic will hurt a brass nozzle over time.
That said, looking at the photo, it looks to be pretty wet. Depending on the material you will need to dry the material as most are hygroscopic.
I have included an article below that should help you out with wet material:
So finally I found the reason of mysterious stuck and it is extremely simple, to such an extent that I am a little ashamed to admit
When the extruder turns reel with loading filament at a certain moment it stretches the material and, as a result, contracts in the cavity of the entrance hole of extruder and thereby gets stuck at the very beginning, before entering the gears, what explains successful unloading, when the filament stuck, and printing only 1-2 layers for small part, what is equal to point of reel turn when wire is stretched.
The solution to this problem also simple, I just unwound the wire and keep it free to not stretch and avoid this blockage, which even not looks like deformation, but as a slight thickening on tiny area after release and compression of flexible material, when the wheel turns after pulling the wire, then failure occurs
Seems like problem is solved, now I have to figure out, how can I make TPU printing a bit faster, it is too slow, I will try 30
Thank you for your attentive support
Bed adhesion issues can be tricky for sure!
I am not entirely sure what bed surface that is but it almost looks like some sort of tape. Correct me if I am wrong.
I would try using some good ol' gluestick on the bed while the bed itself is at room temperature then trying to run a print. It also looks like you are using a brim, which is a step in the right direction. You will also want to make sure you have your cooling fans disabled when printing with this flexible material and slowing your speeds down to ~20mm/s.
We also have an article we have written on printing with Flexibles which you can find below:
PLA when heat treated will be heat resistent up to 140-150C PETG will still only be heat resistent up to 80 max and it will be still more durable (bends and snaps back up to a point) whereas heat treated PLA will still be on the brittle side even though not as much as non heat treated PLA
You got under/inconsistent extrusion. Check your filament delivery system. This can happen when the extruder slips. That can be cause by an obstruction in the path the screw that tightens the gear against the filament too loose, A partially clogged nozzle or poorly tightened nozzle or if its not an all metal hotend the PTFE tube not far enough in or the end of it messed up.
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