@devingator Nylon is sometimes tough especially if you have particles in it (like CF or GF) as that decreases layer adhesion. A couple of things that helped with different Nylons in my experience
1.) Make an enclosure - As little as a garbage bag draped over it helps. Try to keep the electronics board outside the enclosure
2.) use a Brim - pain in the butt getting it off with nylon - lots of fiddling with an xacto knife but often necessary
3.) Use copious amounts of glue stick
and like alwayse make sure your bed is leveled and the first layer gets squished into the build plate you definitely want to make the layer height higher and then put the Z offset down (bring nozzle closer to bed)
For anyone curious, the Micro Swiss "RepRap" with M6 threads looks a little odd but works perfectly on the Raise3D N2
It is NOT the same working length as an "official" Raise3D nozzle - so it would NOT be something you could mix with standard nozzles - but you could use two of the Micro Swiss
@cgkk Clicking means you either have something clogged or the wheels in the extruder are not tight enough of full of filament dust. The tube pops out quite easily here is how I solved that
I know this is an old thread - but I'll add my two bits -
The CF loaded filament definitely eats a brass nozzle as you watch
The "Hardened" nozzles sold as "plated", "coated" etc, are only a little slower to go
The actual tool steel nozzles fare better but still wear
The Ruby nozzles - you will finish your part with the same diameter you started - I've given up on any other nozzle for filled materials.
I spent a lot of time checking nozzles pre/post printing using a machinist's microscope - measuring to .001 mm and it became really obvious that you need something as hard as ruby or you will chase lots of odd things along the way - they don't even stay round...
In the course of your part, you probably went from at size to something larger as you printed - even if you over extrude a little at the bottom, by the time you get to the top, you will be under extruding (at least on tall parts) That plus the temp/enclosure/conditions pieces can add up to some really odd experiences.
I had one large part (pre ruby nozzles) where I had to keep manually "tuning" the extrusion rate up a percent at a time as the nozzle wore - it was a very long 26 hours....
@vaultdwellerkelly its hard to find an all encompassing guide. I suggest youtube is often helpful. if you have a particular question and I am on I will try to answer it. make sure you send a pic when something goes wrong cause that often makes it easier
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@e1aam Post A pic or screen shot of what you mean with gaps. where the hexagons meet the solid parts. First it might pay to update to prusa slicer which is kinda SLIC3R 2.whatever as it is built on slic3r and then maybe increasing the # of perimeters might help
@squirrel79 Easiest is Taulman Bridge Nylon, Taulman 910 is a good choice for harder/stiffer stuff and gears and so is Hobbykings CX12 They used to have a cheap Nylon - extremely tough and very hard to print I called it Fishing line Nylon but too many had a tough time with it so they stopped selling it but it was pure Nylon 6 - fishing line lol. The other Taulmans are good too but we use them extremely rarely. The gears in the pic are most likely 910
@hamprinter That was HIPS Or "the better ABS" like I call it. Same printing settings thereabout, less warp, no splitting, less smell, less shrinkage, higher impact resistance as its less stiff. The tensile strength is a bit lower than ABS but you hardly get to that limit anyway. Parts usually break as they get hit and jolted. That is why PLA fails explosively when hit and splinters. And we pick it up between $4 and $10/kg. We just turned a bit over 100kg of this stuff into PPE. I am the lead mentor for FRC team 1989. Here is a little article on this years robot so you see what we print you are looking at about 14 kg of HIPS.
We print Nylon too - mostly Taulman 910 and Hobby Kings CX12. Now that I am upgrading the Chirons to all metal I will try printing Nylon on them too.
Oh another shortcoming of HIPS is that there are very few colors usually we only get it in "natural" which is white but the natural prints better than the color ones anyway.
PETG is ok for some things. Its a bit tougher than HIPS but also bends more and if you print real big parts then that can become an issue as you in many cases want to minimize deformation. HIPS is go to for slow speed gears and most brakets. If we have high speed gears or slides or bushings or bearings we use Nylon for something stiffer often ABS and sometimes for smaller motor mounts PETG. For Tires and stoppers TPU. PLA for little trinkets you put on the shelf. We sometimes do a logo or a sign or smaller picture frame in it.