General 3D Printing

• L

  Snapmaker
  • Les_wilson88

  1
  1
  Posts
  18
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Printing fast and accurate with a .4mm nozzle on a PULSE using SLIC3R
  • mpirringer

  1
  1
  Posts
  13
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Bumblebot
  • mpirringer

  1
  1
  Posts
  15
  Views

  No one has replied

• C

  Best materials for gear reduction (cycloidal)
  nylon gears lubricious cycloidal • • Coreyfro

  2
  2
  Posts
  20
  Views

  

  Any hard Nylon is fine. Taulman 910 is pretty good and so is Hobbyking CX12. Bridge Nylon if you go for a budget version. Print it solid though (up the perimeter count until you have a solid piece
• 

  Accuracy problem
  • mpirringer

  1
  1
  Posts
  22
  Views

  No one has replied

• K

  How Do I transfer a G-Code File to my Monoprice Mini Delta?
  • Keith77

  8
  8
  Posts
  67
  Views

  

  I don't think I can be of much help there as I do not have that printer. But it sounds to me like your Z-offset is off. I'd level the bed and then start at maybe 0 and work myself up or down with the Z-offset until I get a good first layer.
• O

  Layer separation on curves
  • Ozzyrivera09

  2
  2
  Posts
  31
  Views

  

  Well, we have a lot of questions here. We need to know the following to help you: Printer: Filament: Settings on filament: Pictures of problem: That would be the start of what I would want to see to best help you out.
• H

  Best filament for auto interior parts
  • HBoyles

  2
  2
  Posts
  48
  Views

  

  You are going to be looking at using ASA, it is a UV resistant version of ABS which should hold up to most interior vehicle heat conditions. Getting too cold it not too much of a factor, at least not with any tests I have seen. Past that, you would look to Polycarbonate as that would be the same material that your car dash is made of.
• 

  MH Tough PLA?
  filament color • • mhristau

  4
  4
  Posts
  128
  Views

  

  If you have the info I'd be interested in A.) How does it compare on mechanical parts to PETG if you anneal it and what is the temp resistance if you do or hotprint it B.) How does it survive as a gear. We use mostly Bridge, CX12 and 910 (in order of volume) Nylon is great but under high torque sometimes has too much give (910 the least CX12 almost as good) advantage of Nylon is too that it is slippery. PLA has less give but not all PLA's are equal. We have access to a makerbot replicator and in a 200rpm test after 2 min the teeth were pretty much ground off using Makerbot PLA. Using MH BUILD PLA it "lived" for about 6 min before being in the same state, Hobby King PLA about 7. HIPS was stopped after 15 without any visible damage and used for the whole season without visible damage (about 2hours of running) problem with HIPS is that if you get close to 1000 rpm it starts to get hot from friction and you get damage this way. Nylon we ran for extended periods at 6000 rpm so question is any idea if that PLA is better in that regards than HIPS?
• E

  What is the best way to clean up blemishes on pla with out haveing to paint it?
  • Eclipsonighteye

  2
  2
  Posts
  55
  Views

  

  Unless you want a clear coat like XTC3D, then I do not think there exists a method in which you could accomplish this. The question comes down to a clarification of what kind of blemish are you trying to cover up?
• S

  Ender 3 Bed Leveling issue
  • Squid90

  2
  2
  Posts
  48
  Views

  

  I took a look at one of our Enders, I see what you mean by the leveling screw spinning freely, I am not sure how much of an answer this is going to be but it looks like the screw is threaded into the bed, so removing the leveling knob and tightening the screw its self should work. It looks like on our printer we have the flex plate system from Creality, so I cannot see if there is a screw head on the top of the bed or not.
• C

  Take THAT, Amazon!
  • CannotContainSpaces

  3
  3
  Posts
  85
  Views

  

  @cannotcontainspaces said in Take THAT, Amazon!: o, in conclusion... I'd rather pay slightly more @CannotContainSpaces On behalf of my team, thank you!
• C

  Duet Maestro Extruder Set up
  • CreaticeScribing

  2
  2
  Posts
  22
  Views

  

  Setting the E-Steps is really not all that hard, I am not sure what the firmware is for your printer but, in the most basic sense, all you would need to do is open up the firmware and edit the standard E-Steps from what is loaded to 415. Can you provide some more information on the printer and its firmware?
• E

  Dishwasher and microwave safe
  dishwasher microwave • • Eclipsonighteye

  2
  2
  Posts
  36
  Views

  

  I would not use 3D printed stuff with food even if the filament is food safe. This is a good article why not https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/
• S

  This topic is deleted!
  • Squid90

  1
  1
  Posts
  21
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  Bumblebot wheels down
  • mpirringer

  1
  1
  Posts
  52
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  VIRT-1000 3D Print Impact Resistance tester
  • mpirringer

  6
  6
  Posts
  114
  Views

  

  Our experience so far (hand breaking under as much controlled circumstances as possible) Seems to support at least some of what you say. The main reason I am printing with a .8 is the extra strength. As to layer height I find it deteriorates about .4 (50%) on the .8 and also below .2 there seems to be a sweetspot at about .32 at least it feels like that at least when it comes to HIPS. ABS and PETG. Most Nylon we need to print at .2 or .24 for accuracy sake. Now printing at .32 Layer height is just as fast as printing at .4 layer height at least for anything except HIPS as the max speed at which the material can melt becomes the limiting factor. We got a big boost in layer adhesion and print quality by going and slice with SLIC3R and printing with volumetric E. On layer height there was also a video put out by CNC Kitchen lately that supports this only it was done with a .4 nozzle on a prusa and with filament I don't use so informative but not overly helpful but interesting for anyone using PLA. Also try printing some PLA with an enclosure and an 85 C bed and then test it (make sure you print enough that the print lasts at least 2 hours and don't open the enclosure until after the bed is at room temp. Also take and perform a heat test on it afterwards - you can use MH build PLA for that) BTW I sent you an email with other info.
• C

  Pla sticking inside the E3d v6 hot end
  • crchisholm

  3
  3
  Posts
  108
  Views

  

  For notes, also be sure the heat sink cooling fan is running and facing the correct direction.
• S

  Translucent Orange MH - PETG - Having a Hard time Calibrating printer to print nicely
  • scinutz

  4
  4
  Posts
  71
  Views

  

  @scinutz For the most part, the Orange material should work about the same as the Black without needing to change settings. It is possible that the material is absorbing moisture which can cause the results you are seeing currently. If you could drop us a few pictures I could determine if moisture is part of the problem. Speed should not affect the print as you would have had to make those adjustments for the black material as well. Drop us a line to Support@matterhackers.com as well if you have not already and our techs here will help you out.
• 

  404:1 Planetary on a Pulse attempt
  • mpirringer

  3
  3
  Posts
  80
  Views

  

  Autodesk inventor. Why? Cause the school got a license and is teaching it in a class.