@mnicholson766 The cooling fan on my printer is not that loud but can be heard distinctly when the head reaches a certain temp as it kicks in. I am not sure the fan can blow fast enough to overcome the heater.
PID tuning instructions can be found on https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/PID+Tuning/6
Not difficult if you take your time
@dwalsh Probably depends on the use. But for impact resistance a Nylon might be a good choice. Now there are quite a few Nylons around (check Taulman for example) some are softer some are stiffer. ASA works well outside too. Check what the parts are currently made of and then find a similar/same filament. As for settings - well each application/filament has its own settings
The best advice would be to invest in a professional commercial machine that will cost probably 100x what you bought your mega x for.
Even with some filaments like the BASF 316L, that MH sells, your machine doesn't exactly meet the heatbed requirements. Link to the MH page with said filament:
Sorry to be curt, but there is no simple and straight forward path that takes you from hobby machine to industrial machine. Good luck.
So I did manage to figure out how to non destructively remote the Bowden tube from the hot end. It was clogged, verified that the nozzle was clean. I couldn't get anything in there to push it all out, so I had a cleaning needle I'd have to insert from the top, let it sit and pull it out and clean off filament a bit at a time until I got a large ball out.
@devingator Nylon is sometimes tough especially if you have particles in it (like CF or GF) as that decreases layer adhesion. A couple of things that helped with different Nylons in my experience
1.) Make an enclosure - As little as a garbage bag draped over it helps. Try to keep the electronics board outside the enclosure
2.) use a Brim - pain in the butt getting it off with nylon - lots of fiddling with an xacto knife but often necessary
3.) Use copious amounts of glue stick
and like alwayse make sure your bed is leveled and the first layer gets squished into the build plate you definitely want to make the layer height higher and then put the Z offset down (bring nozzle closer to bed)
For anyone curious, the Micro Swiss "RepRap" with M6 threads looks a little odd but works perfectly on the Raise3D N2
It is NOT the same working length as an "official" Raise3D nozzle - so it would NOT be something you could mix with standard nozzles - but you could use two of the Micro Swiss
@cgkk Clicking means you either have something clogged or the wheels in the extruder are not tight enough of full of filament dust. The tube pops out quite easily here is how I solved that
I know this is an old thread - but I'll add my two bits -
The CF loaded filament definitely eats a brass nozzle as you watch
The "Hardened" nozzles sold as "plated", "coated" etc, are only a little slower to go
The actual tool steel nozzles fare better but still wear
The Ruby nozzles - you will finish your part with the same diameter you started - I've given up on any other nozzle for filled materials.
I spent a lot of time checking nozzles pre/post printing using a machinist's microscope - measuring to .001 mm and it became really obvious that you need something as hard as ruby or you will chase lots of odd things along the way - they don't even stay round...
In the course of your part, you probably went from at size to something larger as you printed - even if you over extrude a little at the bottom, by the time you get to the top, you will be under extruding (at least on tall parts) That plus the temp/enclosure/conditions pieces can add up to some really odd experiences.
I had one large part (pre ruby nozzles) where I had to keep manually "tuning" the extrusion rate up a percent at a time as the nozzle wore - it was a very long 26 hours....
@vaultdwellerkelly its hard to find an all encompassing guide. I suggest youtube is often helpful. if you have a particular question and I am on I will try to answer it. make sure you send a pic when something goes wrong cause that often makes it easier
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