I have an update.
I upgraded my thermistor and firmware (TH3D) and tried a NylonG print again. I let it sit on the plate over night (like intj123 suggested ) and it produced a structurally strong print. I am going to share this thread https://forums.matterhackers.com/topic/8048/nylong-great-looking-prints-but-structurally-weak/7 floridaloteryresults .com to my kith and kin who want to know about that.
I have an Anycubic Photon and have been printing gaming miniatures with the standard sap from Anycubic straightforwardly. I have observed that these minis can't endure even a 1 foot fall without breaking because of the weakness go through more info Resources For a great many individuals all over the planet, betting is perhaps the most effective way to have a good time during relaxation time. For other people, betting offices hugely affect craftsmanship and culture amazingly.
If you have recently purchased an Ultimaker 3 printer, you may be wondering how to print multicolor layers on it. Fortunately, there are many new features to explore with the new Ultimaker 3 printer, and Cura has been designed to take full advantage of those features. Use one of our guides to help you get started with dual color prints. After downloading Cura, open a new project, and then follow the steps to load the materials and model files.
Cura is an open-source 3D printing software program that works with many types of 3D printers. The software is free and has many benefits, including automatic calibration and a range of pre-tested profiles for beginners. The software also allows dual printing, and supports a number of plugins that allow you to customize the user interface and print settings. For the most accurate and consistent results, Cura can handle multiple 3D printers with ease.
To print multicolor layers, choose your preferred extruder paths. Extruder paths can be different for each printer, but a general rule of thumb is to leave them at everywhere and compare them. Try different settings to see which one produces the best results. Remember to test each one by printing a test print with the different settings. Also, keep in mind that filament retraction speed can affect the printing of raised text.
@cope413 Your correct, Young Modulus tensile is decreased.
I explained that incorrectly. What I was trying to convey is that the part will be more flexible for install, but will eventually settle at equilibrium after install to the ambient relative humidity.
@brenthg said in Home Position:
@tinken said in Home Position:
@brenthg Measure the bed manually to confirm the size and coordinates. Use these coordinates in your slicer.
I read somewhere in another forum that the print head HOME position is suppose to be offset from the bed so any residual extrusion does not pile up in the corner.
I measured the bed and the factory 220 x 220 is accurate. That still doesn't explain why my prints are not centered. I will have to discuss this with Geeetech Technical Support.
I corrected this issue by using 128,110 for the center, even though that's not actual center of the 220 x 220 bed. Not sure if that's suppose to be, but my prints are now in the center, not that it really matters.