Lulzbot offers the Flexystruder for both the TAZ and the Mini, which is the best way to print flexibles on any machine we've seen. But if you want to try out Ninjaflex without sinking $300 into an add-on, here's how you can do it with your regular extruder.

The problem with Ninjaflex in the standard Wade's style extruder, is that it tends to buckle and fold over on itself underneath the drive gear. The Lulzbots are actually much less prone to this than other printers, since they use 3 mm filament instead of 1.75. But unless you go very slow and have almost no backpressure, it's still an issue.

Cut off a piece of the PTFE tubing that comes with your TAZ, then cut it down to the right shape to fit between the drive gears and the hole in the extruder block. This will constrain the path of the filament and prevent it from buckling. Here's a diagram showing the basic idea.

I just used some wire cutters and an Xacto knife to get it the right shape. The piece needs to be really small. If its too long, it will prevent the idler pulley from pressing against the filament, and it won't extrude.

We are having an open house on December 10th at the MatterHackers Head Quarters in Foothill Ranch, Ca. The event will run from 5pm to 8pm.

Please stop by and join us.

More info to come soon.

I'm told there will be food.

Thank you

Download MatterControl's newest release here: MatterControl.com

The MatterTouch isn't seeing an update available for 1,5 it is currently at 1.4.1.5565

MatterControl Touch 1.5 was released this week - the Touch should update. If you are having any issues send us an email at support@matterhackers.com.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you don't find an answer here, please also have a look at the MatterControl Documentation.

Will MatterControl work with my printer?

This mainly depends on the language your printer speaks. Currently, MatterControl supports two languages for communicating with the printer; G-Code and S3G/X3G. G-Code is the standard language used by RepRaps and most other printers. S3G is a condensed language used by Makerbot and Flashforge. In all likelihood, your printer speaks G-Code.

In addition, you will need appropriate slice settings for your printer. MatterControl has built in profiles for many printers. Here is the complete list. If your printer is not on the list, don't worry. You will just need to fill in the settings yourself. Obtain specifications from the manufacturer and input them into MatterControl under 'Settings & Controls -> Settings -> Printer' as well as a few under 'Settings & Controls -> Settings -> Filament'.

Why are my objects the wrong scale?

STL files do not store any information about what units their dimensions are in. MatterControl (and all other 3D printing software) expects the dimensions in STL files to be given in mm. Most CAD software, though, will export STL files with whatever units they were designed in (usually inches). Thus, when you bring your designs into MatterControl they will be the wrong scale.

The best solutions is to figure out how to get your design software to export STL files in millimeters. In SolidWorks, for instance, the Save As dialog has an Options button, that allows you to set many parameters for exporting an STL.

If you cannot get your design software to do this, though, you can still rescale the part once you have it in MatterControl. Edit the part, then choose Scale from the bar on the right. There is a drop down menu that will let you from many common conversion factors.

How do I install the drivers for my printer?

If you are on a Mac or Linux, the drivers are already built in to the system and you do not need to install anything.

If you are on Windows, MatterControl will automatically attempt to install the necessary drivers when you add your printer. Sometimes this doesn't work. To install the drivers manually, do the following:

1. Open the Windows Device Manager. You can find it by just opening the Start menu and typing in "Device Manager."
2. Find your printer. Usually it will be under the category "Ports (COM & LPT)", but if the driver is not installed it may be listed as an unknown device.
3. Right click on it and choose "Update Driver Software."
4. Choose to "Browse my computer for driver software."
5. Choose the folder C:\Program Files (x86)\MatterControl\StaticData\Drivers
6. Click Next and the drivers will install

Where can I get alpha or beta builds of MatterControl?

Alpha and Beta builds of MatterControl are available for users that want to test the latest features at the risk of experiencing bugs or crashes. Alpha builds are published several weeks before a stable release. If no bugs are found, it will be promoted to Beta and eventually to Stable.

On MatterControl Desktop, go to the Help menu at the top, then choose Check for Update. Switch the Update Channel to Beta or Alpha.

On the MatterControl Touch, go to Options. Under Application Settings, switch the Update Notification Feed to Beta or Alpha.

If you experience an issue with an alpha or beta build, please report it either to the GitHub issue tracker or to support@matterhackers.com. Be sure to include the build number. It can be found at the bottom of the About screen. The last four digits are the important part.

Experimental builds are also available. These contain the absolute latest code, and are offered to select users in order to get feedback on new features and ideas. They are intended only for testing and should not be considered reliable, stable or even working (from time to time). To request an experimental release, send an email to support@matterhackers.com. If you are using this version to gain access to a new feature please update to the stable version as soon as the feature is available. Advanced users can also compile MatterControl from source.

How do I clear the application data?

On Windows, MatterControl keeps the user's library and settings in C:\Users\{user}\AppData\Local\MatterControl. On Mac and Linux it is in ~/.local/share/MatterControl. This data will persist, even after MatterControl is uninstalled. Remove that folder if you want to completely reset MatterControl to a clean slate. You can also temporarily rename the SQLite database file (MatterControl.db) to see if your settings are the cause of a problem.

I have Intel integrated graphics and MatterControl crashes

There is a known issue with MatterControl and the Windows drivers for certain integrated Intel graphics chipsets. If you are having crashes or graphics related issues, please send an email to support@matterhackers.com. Include the following information in your report:

• The make/model of your computer
• Your GPU model number
• Your OS version
• The version number of your Intel graphics drivers

In the mean time, there is a workaround. You can launch MatterControl with the FORCE_SOFTWARE_RENDERING option, which disables all 3D graphics. Add the parameter FORCE_SOFTWARE_RENDERING to the Target field of the MatterControl shortcut. To do so, right click MatterControl shortcut either in the start menu or elsewhere. Select 'Properties' and edit the 'Target' field. Just add FORCE_SOFTWARE_RENDERING after the quotes. The whole target should read like this:

"C:Program FilesMatterControlMatterControl.exe" FORCE_SOFTWARE_RENDERING

Reasons you would want to adjust the motor current

• Motors running too hot. This is especially a problem when its the extruder motor, since it can soften and deform the filament before it reaches the hot end and cause a jam.
• Shifts in the middle of prints / skipping steps. This happens when the printer is trying to run faster than the motors can keep up. Increasing power to the motors can help with this, however it is not advised to drive the motors past their rated limits. In this case you should reduce your acceleration instead.
• Pausing / slowing after printing for a while. Most motor driver ICs have thermal shutdown circuitry. They will shut themselves off if they begin to overheat. Often what will happen is the the driver will get hot and shut itself off, but then after a while it will cool off a little and turn on again. The cycle repeats. If you see the motors start to pause after printing for a while, and the pauses become longer and more frequent, then your drivers are probably overheating. You can easily tell by feeling them. Either reduce the power, or provide better cooling.

Digital vs Manual Current Control

Some printers have digipots for digital current control. For these printers, the current is set through your firmware configuration. On other printers the current is adjusted via trimpots on the motor drivers themselves. This goes for any printer using modular Pololu style stepper drivers. Below is where you can find the firmware settings on printers with digipots. For the rest of this guide, we will focus on printers with manual trimpots

Marlin firmware: Configuration_adv.h setting called DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT

Repetier firmware: Configuration.h setting called MOTOR_CURRENT

Boards with digital current control:

• Rambo
• Azteeg X3 Mini

Boards with manual current control:

• RAMPS
• Brainwave Pro
• Azteeg X5 (optional)

Getting Started

In this guide we will be using a Robo 3D R1 as an example, but the steps are applicable for any printer. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver, a multimeter, and preferably some alligator clips.

Step 1 — Connect Meter

• Use your alligator clips to connect the negative lead of the meter to one of the ground pins on the board.
• Check the pinouts for your board to find a ground pin to clip on to. The best place is probably a negative terminal on the main power connector.
  • RAMPS Pinouts
  • Azteeg X3 / Pro
  • Brainwave Pro

• Touch the positive lead of the meter to the probe point on the motor driver (VREF).

Step 2 — Alternatively, Connect the Meter to Your Screwdriver

• The metal cap of the trimpot can also act as a test point. This means you can just clip the positive lead to your screwdriver while you are making the adjustments.

Step 3 — Calculate Voltage

• When your printer comes from the factory, it will probably not be set up to run the motors at their rated limits. The current will be throttled down in order to run the motors cooler, quieter, and more efficiently.
• In general, you should give your motors the minimum power necessary to do the job.
• Your stepper drivers datasheet will have a formula for converting between the reference voltage (Volts) and the current limit (Amps). Here are the formulas for some common drivers:
  • Pololu A4988: Current Limit = VREF × 2.5
  • Panucatt SureStepr SD8825: Current Limit = VREF x 2
• Remember to set your meter to 20 V DC.

Step 4 — Adjust Potentiometer

• Clockwise increases
• Counterclockwise decreases
• Be careful not to turn the pot too far. Some do not have stops on the ends.

More Information

Stepper Driver Data

• Pololu A4988: Product Page, Datasheet
• SureStepr SD8825: Product Page, Datasheet

For more information about adjusting your motor current, check out https://bootsindustries.com/portfolio-item/pots-ad...

This guide is also available at matterhackers.dozuki.com.

Yes, depending on how much work you are willing to do. The E3D is not a plug and play replacement for the original hot end on any printer we are aware of. Installation will require some modifications to your machine. We have installation guides for many printers at matterhackers.dozuki.com.

• Lulzbot Mini
• Lulzbot TAZ 5
• Printrbot Simple Metal
• SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V2
• Makerbot Replicator 2

If your printer is not on the list, you should still look through the guides to get an idea of what is involved. Here are the general steps:

1. Find a way attach the hot end. This usually involves printing some kind of mounting piece.
2. Modify your firmware configuration.
3. Find a way to power the fan.

Here are some questions you should ask yourself when trying to determine if the E3D will work with your printer:

• How does my hot end attach to the printer?
• Can I modify my printer's firmware?
• If you want to use the Chimera, Cyclops, or Kraken, you must also consider how many motor drivers, thermistor inputs, and heater outputs your controller board has.

Here are some questions you should ask when choosing which E3D hot end to buy:

• Does my printer use 1.75 or 3 mm filament?
• Does my printer run on 12 V or 24 V, or some crazy combination of the two (i.e. a 24 V PSU with the hot end throttled down to 12 V using PWM).
• Is my printer a direct drive or bowden setup?