@tinken no disagreement overall, just making sure that issues are addressed in the most logical order. I'm hesitant to recommend things that aren't regularly necessary because I've seen some absurd things over the years - including people loading up with lithium or moly grease to the point where it gums up the lead screws/nuts and requires full replacement of the nuts and printed parts. A dry lube or a penetrating film type lube like you've described TinkSeal being would be much better options than a grease or oil.
From the spec sheets online, the mk8 thread length is shorter but it is still M6 diameter. Therefore, the nozzle will work as long as the top of the threads from the nozzle bottom out on the hotend heartbreak. If the nozzle shoulder bottoms out on the heater block, then a gap will exist inside the heater block causing the filament to leak out and flood the hotend.
@mavin Those are great until they clog. Hardened steel can be heated with a blow torch to burn out the plastic. Just make sure you quench it in antifreeze to retain it's hardness.
@mavin Exhaust fans are not a good idea for the enclosure unless you are only printing PLA. All other materials like the warmer temperatures inside the cabinet. I sealed my two holes off. If you are printing Nylon, the off gassing is hydrogen cyanide, and Nylon requires heat in the chamber.
@tinken the small black ring the c-clip slots onto was the key. Had to press down on it, tube came right out. The support team was on the phone with me and made me fell dooooo
@thwclw
The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too.
As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU
@cope413 Wrong paper - and even what you circle shows anisotropy As you like stratsys here are 2 links there
https://uzcwd39yh8l1ul8th1szmq3x-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Fathom_Spec_Sheet_Nylon_12.pdf
https://uzcwd39yh8l1ul8th1szmq3x-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Spec_Sheet_Nylon_12CF_EN_SSYS_Fathom.pdf
Which shows the CF variety stronger in the one direction and considerably weaker in the other (ZX azxis) and considerably weaker on the impact. Which means you might get a stronger part in one direction but if you want one in all directions you migth be better off with the unfilled version. And if impact is a consideration the unfilled is definitely better OTOH if you look for stiffness (less bending when you put weight on it ) the CF is definitely better. So that holds water with the fragments adding abrasion resistence and stiffness and taking away from the overall (on every axis) strength. Does not make one better than the other just more useful then the other for a particular task. Putting aside the greater difficulty in printing CF filled assumining you have mastered that it still comes down to from what you want from a part like with any material thats why tires are made from rubber and windshields from glass and not the other way around. What I take exception to is to always push the most expensive most profit $$$ generating except what might be the most useful for a part. I print almost nothing in PLA cause its the wrong material for what I print Its tensile strength is probably the strongest of all (except some fancy engineering grade materials) but its super brittle (no impact resistance) and grinds itself up when used as gears and not even getting started on the heat resistance which is extremely low. But if I print a chess set or a dice tower which from time to titme I do I use it and If I print a tire I use TPU
Like here https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/f/df23ce1d914c8351a4ee66cefefde5eedad8a510.gif
The Tire is TPU the rim and gears are Taulman 910 and the holder is ABS (that gets wrapped into some 17 oz woven roving and 10 oz glass And I could show you an omni wheel from PETG and TPU as its the right material in the price range we had to work with tough enough and cheaper than Nylon. Here is a look at the inside https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/e/1/e13c9a76038521ea4459663ed1f32ea2f808af87.jpeg
And this prototype is printed in HIPS https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/0/0/006c7575563604a4bea24ba92c0328a11db43c3a.jpeg as we get it for <$10/kg and it hurts less when you make a part that does not fit or work as desired - you are looking at over 4kg of HIPS. Now I tried a good number of your filaments and had no luck with the MH stuff for what we print and whenever I asked it was obviously something I must have done wrong so IDK you except from here but that Matterhacker label does not help me to have much confidence in you. And yet I/we print over 100kg worht of stuff successfully a year. I myself cranked out 4400 prusa faceshields last year mostly from HIPS and Zyltech PETG and ABS (if someone drops something off at your house to turn it into a faceshield you do whatever it is I would have printed weed whacker line at that point). As for ABS - I wasted 2 kg of MH ABS cause it split and warped yet here are 1.5 kg of ABS in one part (Zyltech) https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/c/1/c12a5114693164c2f1d913f64317e420c0634d50.jpeg took a little over 20 hours to print sliced with Prusa slicer printed with a volcano hotend on a Chiron (thats a 400x400 build plate) with a .8 nozzle .4 layer height .88 outside perimeter width 1.5mm inside perimeter width I think somewhere between 8 or 12 perimeters I forgot. If you want I give you the STL and you can try printing it in MH build ABS.
@neutronken It will do it again and again that is why mine is apart.
1.) The wires from the bed need a strain relief otherwise the connectors on the board wiggle back and forth as the bed moves and arc and that melts the connector. etc. your mosfet is probably fine but the connector is shot - the only way to save it maybe is break the plastic out, clean up the studs and solder to it.
2.) You will have the same problem on the power input only it will take at least 2x as long. The problem is the Pulse runs at 12 V and has only a 15 Amps PSU (where the rambo website says use 16A minimum at 12 V. Plus you need heavier wires to the bed if you run it close to 100 and wires that are high flex silicon insulated and 14 gauge or less so they dont get hot plus it should run underneath it with a drag chain.
3.) You'd be better off to replace the PSU with a 24 V 15 A. or at least 24 V 10A but most are 360 watts or so. For that you will have to replace the heating cartridge and fan on the V6 and change the wiring on the bed.
4.) It is also suggested that there is cooling on the mosfets both the one for the bed and the Hotend IOW the case should have at least a 5010 fan or better blowing across the board to keep the heat down. Cause if you run the pulse like me (Bed 100 hotend 260-290) then some areas of the board will get quite hot.
So to make the Pulse a sound printer it needs at least a 24V PSU, 24V hotend, an electronics case with a fan, the wiring properly run to get rid of the "birds nest effect" And a different hotend mount preferably not done in Ryno that does not either cause a thermal runaway on the bed or the hotend when you run the printer hot as described above
I am also working on an enclosure for mine, and change the mount of the extruder and put the filament on top of the cage and change the hotend mount with one with a better fan.
So II think the only thing that might stay original is the extruder and the frame and the X/y/Z motors and mounts
@cdk Good luck even though hotend problems usually are wear and tare - doesn't take much to kill one. I got a pulse and its undergoing major surgery. IMO its a printer that is grossly overpriced and misrepresented. I Bought a 2 Chirons, upgraded them to all metal and such for less than I paid for the pulse. Did have some issues too but less than with the pulse. But then we had some problem with makerbots and ultimakers too. So if you 3DP you will be fixing printers - no matter what you spend. I know some people who have some funmat HT and markforged X3 and they need fixing too.
HTH
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The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too.
As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU
