I designed and I am testing a new hotend mount that is more robust than the original and allows you to tighten the top nut with a socket. Added material prevents plastic drooping towards BLtouch side, while keeping wire hole. I have added a center hole for BLtouch needle removal without disassembly. Fan cooling can be added if wanted, I never print PLA so this not needed for me.
Even if you don't use the Gates modified tensioner, I am finding that the modified x-axis idle side bracket slides nicer than the original one with the original tensioner. I used a 8mm straight ream in the linear rod slots and they fit nice at snug.
X Idler Gates Mod Tension Files
X Idler Gates Mod Files
I bought a spool of Ninjaflex recently and have not had any unexpected problems on my Pulse-XE.
The parts I have printed with it using the profile for Matterhackers flex filament were good - not beautiful, but functional. I think it's tough to tweak it in to get high quality, but what I got was adequate.
One thing I would mention is that I pitched the stock Bowden tube and replaced it with a Capricorn tube of much higher quality and tolerances - That is important for printing with Bowden tube printers and Ninjaflex - You don't want a lot of room in the tube for the filament to bind against the walls.
@bedellkw I have both slice engineering and E3D hot ends. In my opinion, the E3D is better. The first time you get a clog in the hypodermic needle on the Mosquito, you will understand why I prefer E3D. I do not use a "stock" E3D. I have a E3D copper block, I use Sliceengineering heaters and p1000 thermo couplers and a titanium heat break. And I use a metalic nut on the threaded heat sink. To quick change the nozzles I use a nozzle t-wrench and a "thin" 16mm spanner to hold the block. With these proper tools, the nozzles are easy and quick to change.
Use hardened nozzles only. If the nozzle becomes clogged, heat with a torch until cherry red. This will burn off the plastic, but ruin the tempered steel. With the cherry red nozzle, drop into antifreeze coolant in a metal tin can. This will re-harden the nozzle and you can continually use it this way.
@cope413 Just to recap, when we started, the Z motors were dialed too high and acting up. Not sure if we determined why this was set this way...
We then re flashed the firmware. PID calibration obviously is not working or providing us reasonable values...
My first calibration gave me
My second calibration gave me
These kept the hotend 20c below the set temp no matter what I set it at.
We then bumped those up to your suggestions (still not sure why a self PID calibration did not give us reasonable values)
Now its getting higher but staying 3-4 degrees below set temp and fluxing heavily between 3-4c below set temp. This is with the nozzle even at HOME Z up and away from the bed.
So what we still have is a lot of unanswered questions on why this specific printer is acting so strangely...to begin with.
Spoke to David Gaylord and at this point, we both are just not sure why we are still messing with this printer when it clearly had issues early on....
I also had a question on a separate topic about using octoprint with the pulse? If you know anything that would be great. And you mentioned that you have the duet electronics system, does this upgrade create better prints and if so how much was the upgrade all in and what components did you change?
It sounds like you have either a lose wire or a bad panda sensor. I would check this first.
There is updated firmware available. You will need to contact Matterhackers support for this firmware. This removes the smoothieware and runs Marlin. I used this for awhile on my Pulse XE. It seemed to help, but I still had a few bugs I could not solve.
I was tired of trying to fix these issues and I installed a Duet3D mini 5 board. You can find my modification on the forum.
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