If you know which icon is the wrong one, you can uninstall it by doing a long-press, and then dragging it up to the top of the screen into the "Uninstall" icon.
The best bet, though, is to do a proper factory reset. We're happy to walk you through that if you are having issues with it.
Hi Ernie, we aren't seeing any emails in the support system from the 14th or 19th, and it looks like we might be missing some info. It looks like the factory reset worked for a little bit and then stopped, is that accurate?
As for the multiple matter control icons, that would indicate that there was an issue with factory reset process. After the reset, there should just be one.
I forgot to say that you really shouldn't need to go much higher than 90-95C if you are using Buildtak and ABS.
It will be difficult to get higher than 100C without insulating the bed, or putting it in an enclosure. You can safely heat it up to 120C.
What is grinding? The belt? The nozzle? Which model do you have? (There should be a sticker on the back of your machine if you aren't sure)}
For the layer height, what material are you printing that isn't sticking to itself when you print smaller layers? Temperature?
Awesome. Always good to hear. Let us know if you have any issues or questions.
There isn't an API or any plug-ins available (yet) that will let you use MC with the MPCNC. You can run gcode through MatterControl, but you need to generate the toolpath with CAM software (fusion360 is full-featured and free).
I built an MPCNC about 6 months ago, and ended up running it as a 3D printer for a little bit. I would highly recommend not making your machine compatible with Easel just for the sake of using Easel. We have an X-Carve, and Easel is pretty terrible in terms of features and usability.
The Smithsonian is scanning and releasing tons of pieces they have. We just printed a scan of the Columbia spacecraft from the Apollo 11 mission.
Youmagine.com is another good site for free STL files.
The hot end fan that covers the heatsink on the E3D should ALWAYS be on when the hot end is on - no matter what the temperature is.
You don't *need* to if the temp stays stable at the target.
You can change them to the default values on the wiki, or you can run a PID autotune to get exact values for your machine/setup.
In MatterControl, open a Terminal window (Options > Show Terminal). Then enter the command, M303 S250
This will run the PID autotuning for 250C. You can tune to any temp you'd like - 250 is good because it's in the middle of the average functional range for 95% of filaments (200-300C).
When it's finished, it will spit out Kp, Ki, and Kd constants. You don't need to flash new firmware to enter these - they can be changed via EEPROM. You can access EEPROM through the Options tab in MatterControl.
Enter them in the appropriate spots and be sure to save it.
Done and done.
Ok. Open Marlin.ino in Arduino.
Go to the Config.h tab (should be the 2nd tab)
You're looking for the line "#define heater_0_maxtemp"
The default is 275. Change that to 350 (310 is the max you'll likely need for any filament currently available, but the PT100 can handle higher temps than the 100k thermistor that comes with the E3D)
Next, look for #default_axis_steps_per_unit (X, Y, Z, E0, E1)
You need to change the value for E0 for the Bondtech steps/mm. You will likely need to use the default value from Bondtech, and then measure it and adjust to get the exact value.
Once you've done that, go to Tools > Board, and select the Arduino Mega 2560. Then Tools> Serial Port, and select the port your printer is connected to.
Then click the Right Arrow icon (next to the check mark) to upload the firmware to the printer. (Make sure you're not connected to MatterControl or Cura before doing this)