Have you tried cleaning with 91% isopropyl alcohol? I haven't heard of anyone with this issue, but we haven't tried using Mean Green cleaner with it. I suspect that it's not an appropriate solvent for the resin and is only washing away part of the uncured resin. The remaining part is not able to cure in UV, leaving you with the tacky feeling.

White often requires higher temps due to the dye/colorants used. Before you start going too deep into troubleshooting, try bumping the temp on the nozzle up 10-15C - keeping all other settings the same - and see what the results are.

Print quality is excellent - especially with NylonX and NylonG. The surface finish with those materials in particular is great because the fibers make the layer lines very difficult to see - even at layer heights of 0.25mm and larger.

It's literally not possible to have it knotted on the spool like this off the extrusion line. The filament is a continuous piece and is continuously wound on the spool. There's no way it can loop under or around itself.
You can test this theory by holding a length of filament with both hands. Without letting go of either end of the filament, try to tie a knot.

This occurs when loops of filament get loose and are allowed to cross each other - almost always on new spools when the windings are close to the edge of the spool.

When you get new filament, be careful not to allow the slack out of the spool. Hold the end of the filament and feed it into your extruder as soon as you release it from the new spool and you shouldn't see this happen again.

I don't think you'll be able to to this with any 3D printed plastic. The failure mode would almost certainly be the layers separating - which isn't due to the material failing, but rather the process limitations.

Interlayer adhesion on 3D printed parts isn't something that has an ISO or ASTM test standard, so there isn't data we can point to and say definitively that something will or won't work.

The one option that would almost certainly work would be Ultrafuse 316LX, which is 316 stainless steel that you can print on most printers, and then send off to to debinding and sintering. The part you get back is virtually solid stainless steel.

@pverdin That's a very broad temp range. Based on the picture, I would recommend starting at 240C - keep all other settings the same (if you're using the NylonX/NylonG profile). Post a picture of that and we can go from there. Also, if you want to just print a small calibration cube, that would be fine, too.

@mpirringer Adding desiccant packets to the print dry can certainly help. If nothing else, it speeds up the drying process. And if you're in a very humid environment (80-90+% rh at room temp), it may be necessary for some filaments. The vast majority of people will not need them. For those inclined, they have rechargeable tins of desiccant on Amazon for about $10. They come in aluminum cases and are color changing to indicate saturation. They are a lot easier to deal with that the paper packets.

@pverdin That's our mistake then. We can send it out if needed. Please let us know.

@mpirringer I am guessing that Tom and Taulman is suggesting that the filament is cold enough to cause dew to form during the drying process in the print dry, which would cancel out the drying.

You need to know the relative humidity in order to know the dew point. The dew point at 70C, with a 70% rh, is around 62C.

So, the filament would need to be at 62C or lower in temperature in order for moisture to condense out of the air.

This would be difficult to do given that the air is constantly at 70C and is heating up the filament.

Further, it would be highly unlikely to be at 70% rh at 70C. You would need to be adding moisture to your air.

The print dry works for virtually all currently available filaments, in nearly all ambient conditions.

@erievon It is under warranty, though that isn't really a warranty issue. If you're uncomfortable re-positioning the pulley and tightening the screw, we can do that for you. You would just need to disconnect the extruder motor and send it in.

It's pretty easy to do yourself, though. If you'd like help with that process, please email support and we can take care of you quickly.