Based on the images and information you provided, it sounds like you are experiencing a problem with overextrusion on large radius features when printing with your Raise3D Pro2 printer using 1.75mm Ninjatek Cheetah filament and slicing the model with IdeaMaker.
This could be caused by a number of factors as you can read some printers information, such as the extruder not being properly calibrated, the filament diameter not being set correctly, or the extrusion width not being set correctly in the slicer software. To fix this issue, you may want to try the following:
Make sure that the extruder is properly calibrated so that it is extruding the correct amount of filament.
Check the filament diamete
Check the extrusion width
It's also important to note that this is a complex issue
So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
While attempting to hot tighten, I had the parts laid out and plugged in, but not assembled inside the print head when I got the error.
In desperation, I assembled the print head on the printer, and then started up printer. Found Home, raised the print head 60mm and over on the X axis until I could fit the wrench (about 150mm or so). I raised the temperature and no error thus far.
Lesson learned, hot tighten on the TAZ 5 fully assembled.
@portisroads Most likely a problem in the Start Gcode or in slicing. Please post that if you can and maybe the first 20 lines or so of the sliced files - I'd say all of the sliced file but MH has some quite stringed limits on what you can upload here
@bernardfunguy Which PLA and what temperature. Filaments print the same at the same temperature 1mm above the build plate or 400 (given you have a printer that goes that high)
IF the temp is too low you might form a "Puck" after a while that clogs your nozzle or you might have a wiring problem that shows at a certain height
Now stringing can be sometimes reduced with changing retraction and in some cases you got to live with it and remove it either mechanically or with a hot air gun
@ashira2020 Probably the best low budget choice would be either one of the Ender 3 Series from Creatlity or one from the Mega series from Mega series.
But at the same time I probably would not eat of FDM 3d Printed anything unless there is some major post processing done. The problem is not if the material itself is food safe. There are layers and where they meet there are little nooks in which bacteria can collect as its very difficult if not impossible to get into all of them to properly clean it after first use. So that would require to employ some surface smoothing post processing technique to eliminate them
@wildbill360 Move the head to the 0,0,0 position (all the way bottom left the furthest away you can get from the extruder) Stick the tube into the hotend heatsink all the way and put the clip on then see how much tube you need for a comfortable fit to the extruder. Add about an inch as it sticks into the extruder and there is the length. If its a little too long its ok. Too short OTOH is bad as you always can cut a little off but you cant add. The If its a little longer than necessary it should not hurt In general you want it as short as reasonably possible
White often requires higher temps due to the dye/colorants used. Before you start going too deep into troubleshooting, try bumping the temp on the nozzle up 10-15C - keeping all other settings the same - and see what the results are.
@tmitch205 Depends. On the Jheads that come with the Anycubic Mega/Chirons the Volcano is a direct fit size wise. Now E3D uses Thermistor type 5 and some jheads do to. Some (And some V6 clones like the ones from Gulfcoast robotics which work as well as the original V6 with the same shortcoming) use Thermistor Type 1. Also Jheads are usually not all metal and in the firmware set to a max temp somewhere between 240 and 260. If you go to a V6 you can up that temp a bit in the Firmware. But if you only print PLA/PETG you can drop it right in unless the thermistor type is different Now thermistor type 1 and 5 are similar but if you run a 5 with the 1 table you are going to run it about 20C cool and if you run a 1 with a 5 you are going to be about 20 C hot - so its manageable but if you were printing PLA at lets say 215 the new temp might be 20 C more or less to get the same results
@mrihatespam01 Not on a CR10 but on multiple Anycubic printers. Unless you go thermocouple and copper block you will be limited to about 300C now both Semitec and Epcos can handle that and then some more. Now each thermistor either already has a table in marlin and you just change the thermistor type ot 1 or 5 or whateve it is or if you use a specialty one then you got to add a table and make it that custom number. Same if you go to thermocouple. When you buy them they usually either have a table to download or say its "Type (whatever)" Now then set the max temp to about 5 C above the maxtemp you want to print with so if your Thermistor/block/heatercartridge is limited to 290 then make it 295 to protect it and at the same time allow for some fluctuations. After you are done you will have to (most likely) run a PID tune and also re-level your bed.