So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
While attempting to hot tighten, I had the parts laid out and plugged in, but not assembled inside the print head when I got the error.
In desperation, I assembled the print head on the printer, and then started up printer. Found Home, raised the print head 60mm and over on the X axis until I could fit the wrench (about 150mm or so). I raised the temperature and no error thus far.
Lesson learned, hot tighten on the TAZ 5 fully assembled.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!
That is a pretty old version - go to calibration I think its in the control section and under bed leveling there was an offset if you hover over it it say "thickness of paper" or something like that make sure that is 0 or real close to it and then level the bed. in this version the Z-offset works as intended so if you are too high you can put a negative number in the one under bed until you get it right but level first, Don;t upgrade until you fix that problem cause in current versions its even tougher to fix IMO. BTW I do not work for MH I am just an old dude with a Pulse (pun intended)
OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.
Unfortunately, My knowledge on the Inkspire is quite limited but from what I have seen, it appears to be a capable printer. I have worked with Zortrax printers for the last few years in FDM and for the most part, I have never really had a bad experience. From some of my interactions with Inkspire customers of ours, it seems that it does take some getting used to but for the most part, it is a solid system backed up by a good slicer. The only downside I have seen voiced which is consistent is that the slicer is a bit slow.
Guess it would entirely depend on quite a few factors. Like how big are they? What kind of functionality are you looking for? What kind of Material etc. Its kinda if you say I got a lot of stuff to get from A to B what is the best vehicle. Could be a car, a van, a truck, a tanker if its liquid or maybe an airplane or a freight train
We print a lot of Nylon. What you need is a full metal hotend like an E3D V6 or a microswiss etc and preferably a garolite bed Thats pretty much all you will print around 250 to 280 and the bed needs to heat between 60 and 90 depending on the Nylon you print. If you have a .4 nozzle slow down to about <30 with a .8 to about < 20mm/sec. An enclosure helps with warping just like with ABS and HIPS etc if you print large prints.
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