Those settings do not overlap and when changed, will be indicated with the corresponding colored markers to the left of both options.

The Bed thermal runaways (TR) is likely due to the positioning of the printed part on the build plate. If the small part is centered on the bed and the fan is turned up, this will cause the fan to cool the section of the build plate where on the opposite side of the plate is the thermistor. So you are essentially sinking out the heat in one section of the build plate so the system forces the TR error.

Keeping your settings all the same and moving the printed part forward 2-3 inches will more than likely eliminate the false positive on TR.

Lars may not check this site every day, he is quite busy normally. He should be able to get back to this one as soon as he can.

Well, we have a lot of questions here. We need to know the following to help you:

Printer:
Filament:
Settings on filament:
Pictures of problem:

That would be the start of what I would want to see to best help you out.

You are going to be looking at using ASA, it is a UV resistant version of ABS which should hold up to most interior vehicle heat conditions. Getting too cold it not too much of a factor, at least not with any tests I have seen.

Past that, you would look to Polycarbonate as that would be the same material that your car dash is made of.

That depends a lot on where it is not retracting, it is possible that it is a bug but we need to look at some G-Code to be sure.

Could you update MatterControl to the newest version and try the print again?

I am working on the TDS now but some of the results we have gotten from the testing are as follows:

Glass transition: 55-60c
Tensile Yield PSI: 9500
Notched IZod impact: 40J/m
Flexural Strength: 18300
Flexural Modulus: 646000
Heat distortion temp: 144c @66PSI

The full TDS will be available on the website in the future.

Unless you want a clear coat like XTC3D, then I do not think there exists a method in which you could accomplish this. The question comes down to a clarification of what kind of blemish are you trying to cover up?

I took a look at one of our Enders, I see what you mean by the leveling screw spinning freely, I am not sure how much of an answer this is going to be but it looks like the screw is threaded into the bed, so removing the leveling knob and tightening the screw its self should work. It looks like on our printer we have the flex plate system from Creality, so I cannot see if there is a screw head on the top of the bed or not.

I am not sure that I have ever heard of anyone accomplishing this, the best person to confirm if it is possible would be @LarsBrubaker