Hey Guys,

I recently put together a simple guide on setting up a new printer in MatterControl 2.0, you can find it here: https://help.matterhackers.com/article/193-setting-up-3rd-party-printers

@mpirringer we still do give credit for sending in profiles for printers as well as valid site corrections. Do you mind emailing us a response on the chain where you had submitted it? We are happy to implement new profiles and would like to encourage the continued contribution. I looked through a few of our more recent communications and did not see a conversation with a profile mentioned.

Holding the Control (Ctrl) button on your keyboard, tap the "-" or "+" keys to zoom in and out.

What @mpirringer is doing with TeamViewer and a camera is the same setup that I have at home. Controlling the computer from my phone also allows me to queue up long slices for the larger machines as well. I prefer Teamviewer because of it being free and mostly reliable.

Now to get it on the tablet for easier control and vision...

There is no specific belt tension for the Pulse line of printers on the Y or X-axis. Typically we adjust them until the belts can be pinched together with a slight bit of force. Push the print head all the way to the left and adjust the tension until the two sides of the belt can be pushed together with only a slight bit of resistance.

I am not sure that you can heat weld Nylon due to its higher thermal threshold. It may be that you end up gluing the pieces together with adhesives. I would use something like a 2 part epoxy rather than Gorilla Glue or super glue.

My only question is why CF-PA? I have build a few dozen cosplay models and I have only ever needed ABS or PLA. I tend to use ABS because I can bond the parts fully with a bit of MEK or Acetone (depending on which I have on hand at that moment). Those parts are plenty strong enough, hell, even the armor feels heavy like it should.

The only reason I could see the use of CF-PA is the idea that the part will be stronger, which it will be. But unless you are going to be taking a hit to the face while wearing it, I do not believe it is necessary. The cost savings on material alone is a good reason to stick with ABS or PLA.

My apologies for being direct on this one, I see this question come up every so often and I try to use my experience to give a good perspective on the core question. To be fair, I thought the same thing when CF-PA started to come out but after getting my first few models printed, painted, and displayed I did not see the need for it.

Those settings do not overlap and when changed, will be indicated with the corresponding colored markers to the left of both options.

The Bed thermal runaways (TR) is likely due to the positioning of the printed part on the build plate. If the small part is centered on the bed and the fan is turned up, this will cause the fan to cool the section of the build plate where on the opposite side of the plate is the thermistor. So you are essentially sinking out the heat in one section of the build plate so the system forces the TR error.

Keeping your settings all the same and moving the printed part forward 2-3 inches will more than likely eliminate the false positive on TR.

Lars may not check this site every day, he is quite busy normally. He should be able to get back to this one as soon as he can.

Well, we have a lot of questions here. We need to know the following to help you:

Printer:
Filament:
Settings on filament:
Pictures of problem:

That would be the start of what I would want to see to best help you out.

You are going to be looking at using ASA, it is a UV resistant version of ABS which should hold up to most interior vehicle heat conditions. Getting too cold it not too much of a factor, at least not with any tests I have seen.

Past that, you would look to Polycarbonate as that would be the same material that your car dash is made of.