So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
While attempting to hot tighten, I had the parts laid out and plugged in, but not assembled inside the print head when I got the error.
In desperation, I assembled the print head on the printer, and then started up printer. Found Home, raised the print head 60mm and over on the X axis until I could fit the wrench (about 150mm or so). I raised the temperature and no error thus far.
Lesson learned, hot tighten on the TAZ 5 fully assembled.
I have been looking into increasing temperatures on the internet much more, and I have realized that the post I read in a forum it was just someone too scared of cables and changig anything because his printer didn't stand the changes. I wonder what he did to the machine. I have found an all metal Mk8 extruder, so I will try with it. It would be better than changing the hot end, wouldn't it? The support needed looks similar.
thats right forgot about that tho its not using any gui or output like hdmi wander if any info on amp draw when its running in console only mode.... (just looked up ok this isnt going to work tho a pi uses little amps when not running a full gui the usb ports with a wifi dongle will.)
ok looks like a change of plans ill do direct to 12v from psu and use a voltage regulator to step down to 5v.
but to be sure ill have to test the draw and see what the pie is actually using at full tilt printing with Repetier-Server if its 800 or less should be ok to power the pie.
thanks for schematic not sure how i missed that.
will update with what i find out.
(Update: Well that didn't take long to figure out MX1 VCC and GND tho is 5v the rambo won't be able to supply the power so will have to use a voltage regulator just so happens i checked my parts draw and i have a few DC-DC Buck Converters bought a 10 pack on sale some time ago and forgot about them )
I got the Prusa Hephestos from Matterhackers around a year ago and enjoy using it but really wanted to upgrade to a heated bed and honestly it was a bit of a pain for calibrating so I added to my printer "family" the new MK2. It took forever to get (7 weeks), even longer to assemble (day and change) and I brilliantly managed to clog it a few prints in. *shakes her fist at the spool of wood filament!!!* but it's been a nice unit otherwise with a moderate learning/experimenting curve. I think if I get bored with my two and want a third to tinker with I would seriously consider the Pulse. It has a lot of appealing upgrade options but my favorite feature is having someone else assemble it! Although it is a fun challenge, assembling from scratch can really be miserable for a newbie as I learned the hard way.
Personally, I would not consider the Rostock for a beginner (note, I am speaking from experience using the v1, so I could be wrong about the latest v3, take this advice with a grain of salt). When I had picked up my v1, it kept jamming and the movement of the arms were showing slop (kept sticking or overshooting, depending on very slight adjustments to its tightness), it wasn't until I bought a few upgrades from Trick Laser (brand new arms) and got a new hotend (E3D v6 I think) that things started to go smoothly. That being said, I've been a 3D printer hobbyist for a while now, and I still have trouble printing large objects due to warping and splitting, so having such a large build volume doesn't necessarily mean better. I will say it's not so pleasing having to cancel a 15 hour print when you're about 5 hours into it.
As for the LulzBot, never had it, but it looks like a pretty standard Cartesian model. For the price, though, it seems a bit expensive for what it gives you out of the box.
If I were to recommend anything, I would probably suggest the Flashforge Creator Pro. It has a smaller build area, but for the price (less than $1000) and what you get directly out of the box (Dual extruders, heated platform, enclosed build area, LCD + SD card reader, two random 1kg rolls of filament, etc) it is totally a steal. Most of the features it comes with would have costed you extra making those upgrades anyway. Even though it is pretty cheap, they did not sacrifice part quality; I have had no urge to upgrade anything except the spool holder arms (since they only fit Flashforge brand spools), luckily the arms detach and replacements can be 3D printed.
The forum post to which you refer was posted seven months ago, and progress has been slow for support for the Dreamer/PowerSpec Ultra. It won't be ready for the next version of MatterControl slated to be released at the end of this month, unfortunately, but we'll continue to work on it. As such, I can't say it will be ready "soon" but perhaps in the version following this next one.
This is something we have seen before. The fix is already in the code and will be available in the next release (1.6). If you need to use it now, you can download the experimental version. Beware, though many other things are broken in the experimental release.
I always encourage people to build kits if they are willing, since it is such a good learning experience and gives you the ability to fix the printer yourself when things go wrong. It is also by far the most economical way to get into 3D printing. You can get a kit for roughly half the cost of an equivalent preassembled machine.
I've never dealt with the HICTOP or Alunar kits, but they are all based on the Prusa i3, which is probably the most popular 3d printer out there. This means it will be very easy to get help and find replacement or upgrade parts. We sell an i3 kit made by BQ, which I like because it comes with very good instructions.
Unless a kit specifically says it has an all metal hot end, it probably doesn't. Your ability to print different materials will by limited by the maximum temperature of your hot end. I wouldn't worry too much about HIPS, though, since it prints at the same temperatures as ABS.
Most printers are capable of 100 micron layers (0.1 mm) but we normally print at 200 microns (0.2 mm).
I’m a service engineer. Problems like this are common for me. And sorry for you to hear a clear „No“ on my behalf - there is no common or usual way to get a machine up and running. I went over 20 iterations or more, which is normal for custom made machines.
Ah yes. I completely forgot about the whole 3D vs 5D gcode thing. I haven't had to deal with the old style gcode since I upgraded my Cupcake CNC to a stepper extruder. Is such a thing possible with a BfB?
You could always try using another slice engine within MatterControl. However, as far as I can tell Cura and Slic3r won't do 3D gcode anymore either. If all else fails, you could generate a gcode file using some other software (Skeinforge?) and still print it through MatterControl.
hmmmm, I had a suspicion that may be the problem and yes there is a z-axis offset that was set using the M212 command and there is a G29 code at the start of my gcode. I just glanced over the link you gave but it looks like it may. I'll take a look at it tonight thanks for the info
They appear to be a chemical compounding company that is using their resin as the technology. The machine is super simple. That said - simple is very easily scalable. They are using visible light (460 nm wavelength) to cure the resin and the lightsource is any LCD screen. The genius of this is that the screen - and therefore the technology platform - is very scalable and cheap. Nothing stopping you from having a simple Z axis and mounting a 52 in TV as the light source.
Unproven as of yet - but could be interesting to keep an eye on. A liter of the resin is priced at about $65 per liter.