Your assessment is correct. These are the signs that one of the MOSFETs on the controller board has shorted out. If you inspect the board you may be able to find some visible damage to one of the chips. If you are good with SMD soldering and you have a hot air station, then you may be able to replace the component. Otherwise you are looking at buying a new controller board.
Uninstalling MatterControl does not uninstall the driver. To remove the driver manually, go to C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository and delete the mhserial.inf_... folder.
The mhserial "driver" really doesn't do much. The actual driver is built into Windows. Mhserial just tells Windows to use the driver it already has to communicate with certain devices. It sounds to me like your printer has some kind of hardware error.
Makerbot's support page is probably the best place to find information about the old Replicators.https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-originalHere is the assembly guide. This should give you a good idea of how everything is put together.https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/assembly-instructions_12772
MatterControl sends G-Code over a serial connection, so if the Trinus3D can support that protocol, it is compatible with MatterControl at the basic level. I noticed from a quick search about the printer that it also transforms into a laser engraver; this functionality is not inherent to MatterControl. Only the 3D printing side would likely work, though with some experimentation, you might be able to use the laser.In any case, we don't have one, so we won't likely produce a profile for MatterControl in the short term future, but you can probably figure something out. Check out these links for more info:http://www.mattercontrol.com/#jumpMatterControlDownloadshttp://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Getting_Started#Connecting_to_a_Printerhttp://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Custom_Printer_Profiles#Edit_printer_settings
The first part of the process is to go in the Menu under the "Settings" tab and select "Print core 1". Under "Print core 1", choose "Print core" and then select "AA 0.8". Next, go in the Menu under the "Settings" tab and select "Print core 2". Under "Print core 2" choose "Print core" and then select "BB 0.8". After that go to the "Print Setup" tab in the slicer and under the "Print core 1" tab, under "Print core & Material" select "AA 0.8". Next under the "Print core 2" tab, under "Print core & Material" select "BB 0.8". Do not be concerned if the options change under the "Settings" menu tab after completing the previous steps. The slicer will choose the Print cores that you selected in the "Print Setup" tab in the slicer when printing.
Refurbishing a printer can be a tough job. Getting into the nitty gritty details of how to perform each step of refurbishment is a little outside the scope of the type of help we can provide for free through our forum, but I'd like to try to point you in the right direction if I can. The basic steps to refurbishing a printer are these:1. Disassemble, clean, and reassemble any components or parts as necessary. Replace if needed.2. Restore all mechanical functionality, and make sure parts interact with each other as intended.3. Ensure all electrical connections are good.4. Flash new firmware, if needed.5. Test, adjust, and test again.Eventually, if everything is configured correctly, the printer will work again. If something is off, or not working properly, you'll need to fix it before continuing. That said, it sounds to me like you're hung up on number 2, as the X axis is not functioning properly. What about it doesn't work?
Depends on what Prusa i3 you are talking about. There are a lot of variants out there. If you get an Original Prusa i3 MK2, then it comes with an E3D v6 all metal hot end that can print Nylon. Others may not come with an all metal hot end, though.
MatterControl does have a profile for the Prusa i3. During printer setup, click the 'Make' menu and scroll all the way to the bottom and choose 'Other', then in 'Model' choose 'Prusa i3'. Start with the default settings, but check against these: http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Custom_Printer_Profiles#Edit_printer_settings
The types of filaments a printer is able to print comes down to the maximum extruder temperature. In this case, the Mini is only capable of reaching 230°C, so it will not work for Nylon materials. Nylons require 250+.MatterHackers does not carry a printer that is similarly-priced, so it's difficult to recommend a comparable unit. If you are interested in learning more about the printers we carry, please feel free to contact us directly and one of our sales agents can help you narrow down the choices to one that will suit your needs: https://www.matterhackers.com/contact
White PLA tends to require a little more heat than other colors due to the pigment used in the manufacture of the filament. While 185-205C can work for other PLA filaments, 215 is acceptable. If printing at 215 and you still experience clogs, bump up to 220 and give that a try. If you continue to have issues with this filament please email email@example.com and we'll be happy to assist.
Sorry for the delay-- somehow I didn't see a notification for this post. The banding in the pictures isn't layer shifting since it doesn't happen all the way around the part. It looks like more a function of the slicer. In the first picture, it is clear to see how the layers affected near the top of the part are only those during which the hole is being printed. This is probably that these layers are cooling at a different rate than those in the rest of the part, so you could try tweaking cooling settings. What slicer/software are you using?
I have been looking into increasing temperatures on the internet much more, and I have realized that the post I read in a forum it was just someone too scared of cables and changig anything because his printer didn't stand the changes. I wonder what he did to the machine. I have found an all metal Mk8 extruder, so I will try with it. It would be better than changing the hot end, wouldn't it? The support needed looks similar.
thats right forgot about that tho its not using any gui or output like hdmi wander if any info on amp draw when its running in console only mode.... (just looked up ok this isnt going to work tho a pi uses little amps when not running a full gui the usb ports with a wifi dongle will.)ok looks like a change of plans ill do direct to 12v from psu and use a voltage regulator to step down to 5v.but to be sure ill have to test the draw and see what the pie is actually using at full tilt printing with Repetier-Server if its 800 or less should be ok to power the pie.thanks for schematic not sure how i missed that.will update with what i find out.(Update: Well that didn't take long to figure out MX1 VCC and GND tho is 5v the rambo won't be able to supply the power so will have to use a voltage regulator just so happens i checked my parts draw and i have a few DC-DC Buck Converters bought a 10 pack on sale some time ago and forgot about them )
I got the Prusa Hephestos from Matterhackers around a year ago and enjoy using it but really wanted to upgrade to a heated bed and honestly it was a bit of a pain for calibrating so I added to my printer "family" the new MK2. It took forever to get (7 weeks), even longer to assemble (day and change) and I brilliantly managed to clog it a few prints in. *shakes her fist at the spool of wood filament!!!* but it's been a nice unit otherwise with a moderate learning/experimenting curve. I think if I get bored with my two and want a third to tinker with I would seriously consider the Pulse. It has a lot of appealing upgrade options but my favorite feature is having someone else assemble it! Although it is a fun challenge, assembling from scratch can really be miserable for a newbie as I learned the hard way.
Personally, I would not consider the Rostock for a beginner (note, I am speaking from experience using the v1, so I could be wrong about the latest v3, take this advice with a grain of salt). When I had picked up my v1, it kept jamming and the movement of the arms were showing slop (kept sticking or overshooting, depending on very slight adjustments to its tightness), it wasn't until I bought a few upgrades from Trick Laser (brand new arms) and got a new hotend (E3D v6 I think) that things started to go smoothly. That being said, I've been a 3D printer hobbyist for a while now, and I still have trouble printing large objects due to warping and splitting, so having such a large build volume doesn't necessarily mean better. I will say it's not so pleasing having to cancel a 15 hour print when you're about 5 hours into it.As for the LulzBot, never had it, but it looks like a pretty standard Cartesian model. For the price, though, it seems a bit expensive for what it gives you out of the box.If I were to recommend anything, I would probably suggest the Flashforge Creator Pro. It has a smaller build area, but for the price (less than $1000) and what you get directly out of the box (Dual extruders, heated platform, enclosed build area, LCD + SD card reader, two random 1kg rolls of filament, etc) it is totally a steal. Most of the features it comes with would have costed you extra making those upgrades anyway. Even though it is pretty cheap, they did not sacrifice part quality; I have had no urge to upgrade anything except the spool holder arms (since they only fit Flashforge brand spools), luckily the arms detach and replacements can be 3D printed.- Lochemage
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