Based on the images and information you provided, it sounds like you are experiencing a problem with overextrusion on large radius features when printing with your Raise3D Pro2 printer using 1.75mm Ninjatek Cheetah filament and slicing the model with IdeaMaker.
This could be caused by a number of factors as you can read some printers information, such as the extruder not being properly calibrated, the filament diameter not being set correctly, or the extrusion width not being set correctly in the slicer software. To fix this issue, you may want to try the following:
Make sure that the extruder is properly calibrated so that it is extruding the correct amount of filament.
Check the filament diamete
Check the extrusion width
It's also important to note that this is a complex issue
So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
While attempting to hot tighten, I had the parts laid out and plugged in, but not assembled inside the print head when I got the error.
In desperation, I assembled the print head on the printer, and then started up printer. Found Home, raised the print head 60mm and over on the X axis until I could fit the wrench (about 150mm or so). I raised the temperature and no error thus far.
Lesson learned, hot tighten on the TAZ 5 fully assembled.
I got mine last september. There is/was a learning curve. We put so far a little over 40kg of filament through that thing there were some problems mainly due to miscommunications as to the capabilities. Like from the literature at that time it was not clear that the temp max for the nozzle is about 280/285 for the E3D V6. True there are E3Ds that go to 400 but not this one. So that cost some thermistors. There was a wireing problem with the bed (the wire was not tied down properly in the electronics case so the movement of the bed back and forth caused arcing in the connector which damaged the connector.) But that all was fixed by MH (and I hope current models dont have that problem) there are some things I'd like to improve like the connection of the PTFE to the BodenTech extruder. The change I posted is right now in the 2nd kg of printing. The hotend/fan shroud could be better and some other things. But all in all we are currently putting 4-6kg of filament a week through that thing (with a .8 nozzle) printing mostly big frame parts. We (FRC team 1989) are trying to 3d print a whole 32x28x52 inch robot (not in one piece) including gear boxes, frame wheel mounts etc. We have developed planetary gear systems, rack and pinions, regular gears and are printing in Nylon (mostly Taulman as they partially sponsor us) HIPS (For frame parts and gear prototypes as its only $12/kg at Hobby King and way better than ABS) and PETG. Occasionally some PLA (working of getting the manufacturing process down to have it come at least semi annealerd from the printer and the finish anneal it with keeping the dimentional distortions within specs) . So all in all its working most of the time. And yes you will have to bed level once in a while especially when you change the bed temp quite a bit, The garolite bed we have holds on to anything so far (next test is going to be some flexibles and polypropylene and we got a roll of POM/Delrin donated). Well we learned how to take that thing apart if necessary and keep it running. So if you have any questions ask and just so you know I do not work for MH and don't get a cent if you buy here or not. I am just an Old Dude with a Pulse.
It looks like you may have already reached out to us on our support email but to touch base on what you have here. I would say that it is likely an incorrectly installed FEP sheet in the vat, we have noticed this out of the first batch and as we continue to record data on the Moai 200 we will send the information back to Peopoly for adjustments in their production. For now, I would say to disassemble the vat and clean out all the resin with water and alcohol, from there reassembling the vat with one of the replacement FEP sheets included in the accessories.
While I am not too familiar with that printer I would say that it is possible that the touch screen could have the control board embedded directly and this might be the cause of your issues. I would check all connections on the printer control board and touch screen and from there see if you can get a replacement board.
It is possible that this is a grounding issue as some touch screens on printers have had the same issue's and I found more often that if the screen was not broken it was simply not grounding it's self.
Again, all shots in the dark here but maybe a good starting point.
At the moment as you have found, we do not have a profile for the Tornado. unfortunately I do not yet have a guide on setting up a profile for alternative machines but it is fairly simple when you look at it.
Essentially you need to set up a new printer with the Other/Other option and set the Baud rate in the slicer to be able to connect to the Tornado. From there it is all about configuring the printer in the slicer and running tests.
If you run into any problems you can ask me and I will answer them as best I can.
I wanted to kick in here and see if I could be of assistance. First off, @Framemanager, a few things with the first being, are you sure your Baud rate is actually set to match the printer. It looks like 25000 is the setting for the Mega. If this was not set correctly then you might not be able to send a command. To set it you can follow this gif!
From there you should be able to run the "Extrude command" from the extruder option at the top of the screen.
It is tough to say what the exact problem is going based off of one picture but I will give it a shot. The first question I have is, have you been watching to see what the printer is doing during the print? I know we can see the exact output of the printer but if you watch it, do you hear anything or seen anything out of place?
If you were to print a cube you would be able to measure out the exact X and Y dimensions which would help with finding the solution.
I have not cracked open a Finder in a good long while but I recall them having some couplers holding the X and Y axis rods on the motor shafts, these could be loose. So lets see what the Cube shows and from there we will know a bit more.
Thanks for dropping into our forums, I would actually recommend dropping us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org as our sales team will be able to assist you in determining the best machine for you with consideration of shipping cost. We can check the shipping cost of the machines as we determine the best suited one for your use.
Depending on volume of print area you are looking for we have a rather good range of printers for someone who is looking for more of an advanced setup. Not to be too biased but the Pulse printers are really nice and a good value for their cost. Not to mention that you can customize it to fit your needs so long as you stay in the same build form factor.
Let us know what your requirements are, I hope we are able to find a good fit for your needs!
Sorry for getting over to this one so late but hopefully this information can be used be other people in the future to resolve the same question.
So while we do not have a profile for the Geeetech machines we do allow for the creation of other profiles. Normally I recommend to set up the printer as being "Other" in both Make and Model and from there I configure the profile and rename it after.
You can find the printer setup by going to the "Hardware" Tab and clicking on the + icon next to "Printers".
What you are attempting to do is the bane of desktop 3D printers. The larger the footprint on the bed, the more power you are going to need to be able to heat the bed. As a result, you will have to do a "bypass" on the bed heater and power that directly from a different power source. All of the logic will still go through the motherboard, but the power would need to be separate. Currently, there are no off-the-shelf boards that will allow you to run the power necessary to heat your bed through the board itself.
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