Other 3D Printers

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  Flashing please help me
  • Louiscook

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  Hey @Louiscook I apologize for the delay here on the response, any chance you forgot to link the name of the board you are using to try and flash? In my experience the flashing of a board from the Arduino software is fairly straight forward so it may just be a simple setting that has been missed. We do have a helpful guide here if you would like a good starting point.
• B

  Rambo - Arduino Update
  • bcrazycramer

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  Hey @bcrazycramer Thanks for posting, but I am not sure what the issue you have encountered is, maybe I am missing something but I need to know what the problem is exactly. It also looks like you are using something other than Arduino for pushing the firmware, maybe try that and see how it goes?
• D

  Tevo Tornado
  • Dennis Ray

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  Hey @Dennis-Ray At the moment as you have found, we do not have a profile for the Tornado. unfortunately I do not yet have a guide on setting up a profile for alternative machines but it is fairly simple when you look at it. Essentially you need to set up a new printer with the Other/Other option and set the Baud rate in the slicer to be able to connect to the Tornado. From there it is all about configuring the printer in the slicer and running tests. If you run into any problems you can ask me and I will answer them as best I can.
• D

  Anycubic I3 Mega and Matter Control Software
  • dgeehot

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  Hey Guys, I wanted to kick in here and see if I could be of assistance. First off, @Framemanager, a few things with the first being, are you sure your Baud rate is actually set to match the printer. It looks like 25000 is the setting for the Mega. If this was not set correctly then you might not be able to send a command. To set it you can follow this gif! From there you should be able to run the "Extrude command" from the extruder option at the top of the screen. Let me know how that goes!
• D

  3D printer is printing ovals
  • DJWalrino

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  Hey @DJWalrino It is tough to say what the exact problem is going based off of one picture but I will give it a shot. The first question I have is, have you been watching to see what the printer is doing during the print? I know we can see the exact output of the printer but if you watch it, do you hear anything or seen anything out of place? If you were to print a cube you would be able to measure out the exact X and Y dimensions which would help with finding the solution. I have not cracked open a Finder in a good long while but I recall them having some couplers holding the X and Y axis rods on the motor shafts, these could be loose. So lets see what the Cube shows and from there we will know a bit more.
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  This topic is deleted!
  • Naresh

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• C

  Dobot Mooz
  • Christianurgese

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  As a good starting point I would say to check the Baud rate of the printer as if that is not set correctly, the software will not communicate with the printer at all.
• A

  Help choosing best $3-5k Printer
  • Ashorething

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  Hey @Ashorething Thanks for dropping into our forums, I would actually recommend dropping us an email at support@matterhackers.com as our sales team will be able to assist you in determining the best machine for you with consideration of shipping cost. We can check the shipping cost of the machines as we determine the best suited one for your use. Depending on volume of print area you are looking for we have a rather good range of printers for someone who is looking for more of an advanced setup. Not to be too biased but the Pulse printers are really nice and a good value for their cost. Not to mention that you can customize it to fit your needs so long as you stay in the same build form factor. Let us know what your requirements are, I hope we are able to find a good fit for your needs!
• D

  Geeetech G2S Pro
  • Duckman

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  Hey @Duckman Sorry for getting over to this one so late but hopefully this information can be used be other people in the future to resolve the same question. So while we do not have a profile for the Geeetech machines we do allow for the creation of other profiles. Normally I recommend to set up the printer as being "Other" in both Make and Model and from there I configure the profile and rename it after. You can find the printer setup by going to the "Hardware" Tab and clicking on the + icon next to "Printers".
• D

  Alfawise u20 connecting to mattercontrol
  • dredwolf37

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  Hey @dredwolf37 That sounds like the Baud rate may not be set correctly, take a look in Mattercontrol and see if in the Printer Settings you can change the rate the be the same as in the S3D Profile. You will find the Baud rate if you enable the "Printer Settings" in Mattercontrol and get this tab as shows below. Unfortunately I an not going to be able to tell you what the Baud rate is directly so this one you may need to figure it out but luckily it sounds like the S3D profile has the right one at the moment. Let us know what you find!
• K

  Why is there not Raise3D Printer Category listed?
  • KS...Husker

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  @KS-Husker Thanks for the feedback. Will send this request over to be included on the list.
• G

  Taz printer expansion project
  • gghouck

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  @gghouck said in Taz printer expansion project: PSU What you are attempting to do is the bane of desktop 3D printers. The larger the footprint on the bed, the more power you are going to need to be able to heat the bed. As a result, you will have to do a "bypass" on the bed heater and power that directly from a different power source. All of the logic will still go through the motherboard, but the power would need to be separate. Currently, there are no off-the-shelf boards that will allow you to run the power necessary to heat your bed through the board itself.
• C

  Clearance below the Titan Arrow Mount plate.
  titan arrow clearance minimum z height • • crchisholm

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• E

  does anyone know how to fix this
  • Enug

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  I know it has been awhile, but if you calibrate your extruder output, you will not have to putz with the extrusion multiplier. Plus, your model is quite under-extruded so you you may still be trying to find the right multiplier. Calibrate your extruder and then you can "fine tune" while printing. Also, make sure you have the nozzle diameter set to match the nozzle installed on your printer. Hope this helps if not too late.
• G

  This topic is deleted!
  • gkawkes

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• M

  Raised3D Pro2
  • Murphyslaw

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  This is a great question as there seems to be zero info out there since the launch this spring.
• 

  Sindoh 3DWOX-2X 3d Printer
  • skyglue

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• B

  The x-axis on my Airwolf axiom 20 Direct drive not homing
  • Badaru

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• B

  Raise3D N2 Vs Taz 6 vs Ultimaker 3
  • belezeebub

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  I am biased by having one of these - so I might be slightly too "glowing" about the N2 but I really have found that it can do almost anything. I have an N2+, so the build volume is huge. Cons: Its a big machine... At least the N2+ is Bed leveling is a bit of a chore but really only a "do once" task. Factory extruder is a little heavy, gets lots of horrible reviews BUT see the related PRO... I never had any issues with mine PROs: Its a BIG machine - totally enclosed except when printing PLA - prop open the top or take it off for PLA The mechanics are really quite solid - of course you could build a better machine but then the price would go up too - its really a solid performer out of the box. You CAN upgrade various parts if you find a need - From alternate hot ends and extruders to using upgraded stepper chips, third part slicing software, g-code etc. It all works out of the box - but it isn't so closed a system that you can't find custom solutions for any issue you might have. Notes: I like to print Nylon and CF nylon or CF PETG - it does all of those quite well. I have run 0.2mm nozzles at 0.05 layer height and gotten great detail I've also run 1.0mm nozzles with a layer height of 0.4mm and built huge parts really fast - it can do what you need when you need it. I would call it a "semi-open" system, as the controller can be flashed to alternate (not factory) configurations but the provided software, touch screen and IdeaMaker software all integrate so well, I stopped using other slicers and just use theirs. Tech support and the on line community are responsive and knowledgable - no regrets! I switched to a Bondtech Dual Direct extruder because I found one really cheep used - For standard filaments, it doesn't seem to be much different from the factory extruder - maybe for really soft filament or poor quality filament that isn't consistently round, the spring loaded drive would be an advantage, but I never had trouble with the factory system - adjusted it once and was good to go. Mark
• T

  Peopoly Moai error
  • tinytimsminis

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  @tinytimsminis I assume that you are working from a Windows type machine. If so, then go to the C:\Program Files and C:\Program Files (x86) folders and delete all instances of Cura and Ultimaker Cura. Next, go to C:\Users{User_Name} and delete the .cura folder. Then restart your computer and load the Peopoly Moai configured Cura version 2.6.2 and see if this works for you. If not, send an e-mail to support@matterhackers.com.