So, I was following the instructions to update the firmware, however, when I Cura's Automatic Update prompt came up it said my firmware update version was UNKNOWN, so I grabbed the .hex file for the version the latest version from GitHub (probably my mistake), and told it to update. Immediately my Mac USB disconnected and the Cura said the printer was no longer connected. The LEDs went green then red and it stayed in that position for a long time. So, now my Sigma won't boot and when I try to turn it on the right extruder goes left and hits the other extruder and starts making noise. Any chance there is a way to manually update the firmware without Cura? I cannot connect Cura to the machine anymore it won't recognize the Sigma. I am stuck and opened a support ticket with BCN3D. Any advice.
While attempting to hot tighten, I had the parts laid out and plugged in, but not assembled inside the print head when I got the error.
In desperation, I assembled the print head on the printer, and then started up printer. Found Home, raised the print head 60mm and over on the X axis until I could fit the wrench (about 150mm or so). I raised the temperature and no error thus far.
Lesson learned, hot tighten on the TAZ 5 fully assembled.
@randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
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