Other 3D Printers

• L

  Ender 3 nozzle questions
  • Lancer525

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  1
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  1058
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  No one has replied

• R

  Printer not listed and can't find info.
  • Randal

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  1403
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  @randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
• M

  New Ender 3 Pro
  • Mikeb76

  4
  4
  Posts
  2202
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  Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
• J

  Good, low cost printer
  • James211

  3
  3
  Posts
  1917
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  Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.
• J

  Remote monitoring Pulse XE
  • JonBurrows

  8
  8
  Posts
  4669
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  It's not that bad, mostly it runs OK , it just has it's little hiccups on occasions. I can live with it.
• 

  Qidi X-Max Nozzle
  • Snow

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  1
  Posts
  2338
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  No one has replied

• R

  This topic is deleted!
  • RedbeardRon

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  1
  Posts
  1
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  No one has replied

• 

  RIP Lulzbot
  • mpirringer

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  1
  Posts
  1224
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  No one has replied

• B

  matter control crashes when exporting file
  • bossblue

  3
  3
  Posts
  1750
  Views

  C

  Same error for me, this appeared after last version a couple of months ago. Can we have the previous version?
• T

  Specific brush for nozzle cleaning
  • Turon

  2
  2
  Posts
  1351
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  I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store. Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
• S

  Creality CR-10S SD Card not Working
  • Summer

  4
  4
  Posts
  6286
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  walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
• S

  BFB 3000 DUAL extruder conversion
  • Saif

  3
  3
  Posts
  1782
  Views

  S

  @erikescudero Hi! No problem..I appreciate your response. Cheers
• S

  Old BFB 3000 stuck in bootloader mode
  • Saif

  3
  3
  Posts
  1608
  Views

  S

  @erikescudero Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years. I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully. Inference : the board is receiving the firmware. But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode. I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
• 

  The new build
  • erniehatt

  8
  8
  Posts
  3490
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  Thanks for the response , we will see how it goes, might end up making metal ones. What part of the UK are you from. I am originally from Essex.
• 

  Anycubic Chiron first impressions
  • mpirringer

  3
  3
  Posts
  3646
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  Guess I will revisit that. The problem I had was it always wiped out the Volumetric E setting Plus I had to rename the exe to Slic3r
• T

  Solidoodle 2 low temp issue
  • Theothersprague

  3
  3
  Posts
  1470
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  If you did not run a PID tune when you installed the new hotend, this might be advantageous as well https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/PID+Tuning/6
• S

  A10 printer
  • Sparkes

  8
  8
  Posts
  3334
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  @sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
• 

  How good is it
  • erniehatt

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  2
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  1589
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  @erniehatt 2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports. I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfvyV03WJG8
• 

  Got my 2nd printer as a present
  • mpirringer

  8
  8
  Posts
  3393
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  I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
• B

  New Creality CR-10 s5 showing 357 deg nozzle temp at power on
  • bobcam300

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  4
  Posts
  5242
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  B

  @mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!