I try to connect matter control it says disconnect but when I try to calibrate it says '' 3d printer should now be homing '' but the printer does nothing I try'd to increase the baud rate but it did nothing does any body know how I can fix this

A printable direct drive conversion allows 3D printer enthusiasts to upgrade their machines for improved performance. This modification involves replacing the traditional Bowden extruder with a direct drive system, which reduces filament feeding issues and enhances print quality, especially with flexible materials. The conversion process typically involves printing specific parts, acquiring a compatible extruder, and following a step-by-step guide to assemble and install the new system. This upgrade is popular among hobbyists seeking more precise and reliable 3D printing results.

Needs to be 100% infill. Lines should work, but you need to flatten the layers. You can use less heat with a copper nozzle.

@tinken When you say nearly identical, does that mean I can use MK3 profile without worry, on MH website it says Smoothie needs a different method of creating a profile, but there's no link or other references, on FB group somebody mentioned it is not straight forward and needs special settings?

@azplasma That is a Nylon issue where it warps the plate right off the magnetic bed. When this happens, pull forces up to 43,000 psi can be exerted on the build plate.

To solve this issue, you need to adhere a new layerlock sheet to something magnetic other than spring steel. I suggest purchasing a custom cut galvinized steel sheet 0.100" thick. This will have even greater adhesion to the magnetic base and will not bend from warping.

I have a working profile in that Cura, it's based on this profile: https://help.matterhackers.com/article/210-pulse-cura-configuration but I found that importing it as the guide suggests is a bit buggy. I did the following To set it up in cura:

settings>Printer>add printer Add non-network printer>custom FFF Printer Copy these settings

Start G-code:
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute positioning
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
G29 ; mesh bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp

G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z10 F1800
G1 E20 F100
G1 X100 Z0.3 E45 F900
G92 E0
G1 E-2 F2400

End G-code
G92 E0
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M107 ; turn off fan
G1 X0 Y210; home X axis and push Y forward
G28 Z0
M84 ; disable motors

Does the Pulse XE even support Linear Advance? Just got mine and M900 is not recognized by the firmware.

@xc68000 Prusa mk3s may fit, you will need to make adjustments. I think you are better off mounting a BMG to the existing mount.

@sugarhood-nye
I like print PETG on sanded Garolite, no glue needed. Or I also use borosilicate glass and hair spray. A textured PEI plate can also be printed on. Garolite is my favorite.

Try these settings
Nozzle 2740-245C
Bed 75C (80C for Garolite)
First Layer 10-15mm/s
Additional layers 25mms perimeters
Infill 40mm/s
Fan OFF (never use the fan until absolutely needed)