@pverdin Exactly PETG sometimes does that. I had better results though with copper nozzles. Also use the torque wrench and check the nozzle once in a while as they do tend to come loose

@mstange42 Thank you for the suggestions. This part was oddly shaped, this was the most optimal positioning to avoid supports in bores and things like that. I will play with the suggesting settings. Thank you again.

For my thermistor I have to replace mine about every 6 months along with my PTFE tube, about 1000 hours of printing give or take pending on material. For your hotend, make sure you are using the correct one (12 or 24 volt) as incorrect one would cause issues all around. As for the fan, it sounds like you have your setting way too low. Speed -> Fan -> Turn on if Below. Default is 60 seconds, but on different material it works better at a higher setting. Also check your Cooling settings and adjust as needed there to help.

I just finished compiling a branch of Marlin 1.1.9 for the Pulse XE. Im still working on getting my Z-Offset set and after I get some prints I was going to publish the source code on GitHub. Its not super hard. The printer itself is just a variation of the i3 design. I did this becuase I wanted the Pulse to be a more stand alone printer and not be forced to use MatterControl. I like MatterControl for some of the things it can do, but for slicing, I feel like i can get better prints and have more control from Cura or other slicers.

@mpirringer thanks for posting that link. Good to know what could happen.

@spaceghost1911 This is the link I have for Github: https://github.com/MatterHackers/PulseOpenSource Hope this helps

thanks for your help on these topics, i went and picked up some 3in1 from harbor freight last night and that fixed it

I am from Los Angeles so buying the Pulse over the Prusa was a no brainer. The support of the experts at Matterhacker have been extremely awesome. I have 7 other 3D Printers, Dremel 3D20, 3D40, 3D45s. I like solidly made machines with the best support available. Bosch Dremel is one of the biggest companies in the world and they have the means to provide superb customer service, but the support of Matterhacker is just as good. The Dremels are solidly built and are pretty much fire and forget when it comes to PLA using Simplify3D. But I needed a machine that would print in NylonX and Kevlar. As far as printing goes, the Pulse XE is like the US version of the Prusa except it is really tailor-made for my favorite filament, NylonX. My Pulse XE prints almost round the clock for the past 3 months on nothing but the most abrasive NylonX and I have never had any problems except when I spilled coffee on the bed while it was printing. My only regret because of this is not buying the case for it. From my years of printing, calibrating printers is always a pain. My Pulse XE was ready for a fight right out of the box. I put it into production the moment I plugged it in. The details are superb and I rarely ever touch the pre=configured settings unless I need to add more perimeters or more infill. But most of the time, I just feed it filament and print directly from Matter Control.

@lado Just to make sure its this thermistor https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e3d-v6-thermistor-kit/sk/MMXU1R31. I always keep 2 on hand just in case. Now you do not need the heater cartridge because that is for the hotend up top the bed has its own heater built in and is one piece namely the whole bed. You will also need some capton (heat resistent) tape or some boiler (aluminum) tape as you tape the glass pearl end of the thermistor to the center of the bed. and you can also tape the fiberglass insulation to the bed but not the white insulation wiring as that will start to get soft at about 100 C and you want a little distance between the insulation of the wire and the underside of the bed I put some little pieces of heating insulation material as a little standoff there and then taped the white wire to the aluminum undercarriage of the bed assembly as I was running it 24/7 at 100C bed (printing HIPS and ABS) and sometimes dropped it to 90 for some Nylons The 10.4 Volt worry me. Check the power at the power plug first. You should be at 12 V (when the bed is heating and the printer is printing) that is the bottom left connector on the bord with the wire coming from the switch. I burned out 2 power supplies and one of the symptoms was the dropping temperature. The mini Rambo documentation states to use a Power supply >16 A and the Pulse comes with a 15A powersupply I made things worse by replacing the 30W cartridge on the V6 with a 40Watt one to try to resolve another problem which made the power supply inadequacy more evident. At the power imput plug (between ground and the switch) you should have 12 V (+/- .3V so 11.7 to 12.3) If you drop on the input power under 11.5 you will start to put considerable load on the MOSFETs of the heated bed (most others have a fan blowing there) so at the bed connector (bottom right) you should have at least 11.4 V (the higher the better as the lower the voltage the higher the current to get the same wattage (heat) and current is bad for wires and MOSFETS You should not drop more than 0.1 volts between the connector at the board and the connector at the bed if you drop more or the wire (not the white thermistor wire) gets warm then that wire is insufficient. According to my chart the bed wire for running 10 Amps about to the bed should be at least 14 Gauge (the lower the gauge the thicker the wire and better conducting) Check the connector spec and use the heaviest wire the connector will take. If you replace the wire run it in a nice gentle loop preferably with a drag chain underneath the printer (print a holder) so it does not kink by the connector I can see your wire especially the white one shows some kinkage by the bed connector. I probably will post here when I get to reassemble my pulse - hope fully over xmas. I am printing for FRC team 1989 and they keep me busy. I am retired but probably spend more than a full time jobs time volunteering there teaching the kids and developing new ways to make the robot (we are 3d printing a 32x32x48 INCH robot probably containing more than 25 kg of filament - not in one piece of course) So here is what I am changing on my pulse and the status I am at. 1.) replace the powersupply with a 30A (360W) powersupply http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-12v-30a-360w-power-supply-unit/ I bench tested that before I took it apart and it resolved the power issues 2.) Mount Power supply and board in a new case with better wire management and a fan 3.) make a complete enclosure to ideally get the ambient temp inside to 50 C which works great for everything except PLA But I am working on that too not that I intend to do a lot of PLA printing and the simple solution is to open the door I ran tests on the Chiron with 52C ambient temp on pla and got occasional jams as the PLA was getting soft in the cold zone of the hotend as the fan obviously was blowing 52 C air at the hotend. (probably integrate an electrical cooler unit) Change the filament path and redesign the filament out sensor as it stops working occasionally (the one in the pulse relies on a bearing resting on a limit switch and sooner or later gravity weakens the spring enough in the switch so it thinks there is always filament - have not figured that out completely yet. 5 Redesign the hotend mount I had to reprint the hotend mount anyway (you can get the files online on MH github) I used HIPS as the original ones were printed in RYNO and RYNO looses its shape at about 60-65C so printing a big part having the hotend with assembly hovering millimeters above a 100C bed plate turned the bottom of my hotend mount to a wavy bloby mess. A shortcoming is that if you print some Nylons like 910 or CX12 at the optimal temp of 275 to 280 (or hips) with the bed at 90 or 100 repectively If you turn the fan on on lets say HIPS to bridge you can flip a coin if you get a thermal runaway on the bed or hotend as the fan shroud blows air to all kinds of places it shouldn't blow it I think the D frame which is for the one with the Volcano has a better one. But I also want to protect the BL touch so that not every time a print curls up it rips its leg off. Happens once in a while but too often if you at times print 6kg of filament/week (.8 nozzle) I went to manual leveling after the 4th BL-touch. The enclosure is pretty much done (if there are not problems in the assembly) the case for the PSU and the board and fan is printed and the PSU and fan mounted. So when I have time I move the board mount the enclosure and rewire the printer. Feel free to ask if you need help I also started a blog here https://pirringers.com/3dp/ and here https://workbench.grabcad.com/martin.pirringer-2/tutorials

@pverdin Good Idea. Was printing some prototypes today and for that I usually use filament that I either bought very inexpensive or got for free. It was a reasonably large part - going through the iterations - About 1/2 kg of Filament. So one iteration I printed in Hobby King ABS that I picked up for 4.87/kg looked real nice except its a hideous color. The Other was a spool of Free Prusament PLA I got at the ERRF 2019. That warped all over the place. So I will also stay away from PLA.

Thank you

Is it possible to get the tweaks the OP made for this to add on to his profile? While I think that some of the features inside Matter Control are cool I'm finding that it isn't that great of a slicer as Cura or S3D.

This is related to getting the z offset in the firmware for the pulse and this is now under review to add the z offset I was told. still in testing.

@zoromer I guess we will see

Its most likely the wiring. Mine came without strain relief and wired in a way that the back and forth movement of the bed wiggled the connector and caused arcing and also eventually broke some wires So check for that with a meter

In this instance, it looks like you may want to check your cooling fan. Making sure that it is on 100%for PLA.

It used to always pop out not any more since I put this on Its been solid for months now. I published it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3869433

Can't really help with other brands, I find the one available that works for me and stick with it. Not one for experimenting.

When I upgraded the bed from 200 X 200 to 315 X 315, using the 12v supply it took 12-15 minutes to heat to 60c. By upgrading to another 24v supply It now takes 4-5 mins to heat to 80c. Not sure but I think the bed is rated to 110c.