Tempp Solution strap a 6" usb fan to it with a zip tie and plug it into the computer. Really hope someone has a good solution for this or I got to start from scratch

Tried that - within 75 mm of center. If you tell me where I send you some STL's set to turn fan on if print time < 30 sec. Slice with a slicer of your choice tried to upload them here but it tells me I don't have the priviledges. they are 15 tooth htd pulleys. Or print 3 16mm tall 18mm diameter cylinders with a 13mm hex hole in the middle at least 2 in away from the edge of the plate as the edge does not carry the temp and set the fan to 100 % heck even 50 % does the trick. And just to make sure it isn't something melted on the hotend mount I reprinted that. when I installed the new E3D V6. Alternatively create a circular plate 196mm in diameter 4.8mm thick with a 29mm hole in the center 4 6mm holes on a 50.4 mm circle and 6 8mm holes on a 112mm circle and print it with a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layer height - sold (6 bottom, 6 top layers and turn the fan to 50 % and a nozzle tempt of 275 and roll the dice who is going to have a thermal runaway first the nozzle of the bed. So either there is something wrong with my printer or it just cant do it. The solution to this one is to turn the fan off and slow the print speed quite down. Heck this one even fails with PLA and the bed at 85 to get a heat resistent annealed dimensional correct pla sheet. It becomes particularly challenging with low bridges that need a fan on pretty much any material like this bolded text or this Both will cause a Thermal runaway on the bridging when printed in HIPS (270 nozzle 100 bed) The 2nd item luckily can be printed on a 45 deg so there are less bridges (its 267mm lon and prints diagonally) the first one is 215x167 thereabouts and the first bridge section is 13mm off the plate. Only choice on that is set bridging fan to 10% and design it so its about 1mm lower than need be so you can file a lot of hanging stuff out to get it dimensionally correct. (first part also is about 180mm tall). So anyone know a change to the design that would allow better bridging and cooling - I am all ears. Until then this is just for anyones info. If you got a pulse and need to bridge at high temps close to the building plate or print small items - do it without a fan or with the fan at < 20% depending on distance from build plate. BTW both items are used in multiple configs on the "bumblebot" I posted here

Hi Jacob, The DXE doesn't have EEPROM - that's only for the 8-bit electronics. You can adjust steps/mm on the DXE, but it's a different procedure. You just need to send the appropriate G code to change it. Though, based on what I see, I don't think retraction is the issue here. Give me a call or reply to our last email and we can troubleshoot the PLA issues in more detail.

If it is that young a printer I suggest you call support. The extruder stepper gets pretty hot on mine too but not so much the other motors. I know from general experience that a belt that is too tight can put an extra load on the motor and make it hot. As for your extruder the marks are from the gears. The flat spots from the gears skipping gears will skip (and also make the motor hotter) if there is something holding things up. It can be before the extruder like an improperly wound spool where the filament is crossed and then it once in a while tries to pull filament out from underneith another and that can cause that problem. Or an obstruction in the hotend maybe you are printing at too low a temperature or too high a speed or there actually is an obstruction in the nozzle. All it takes is that during filament production a foreign body like dirt or dust got into the filament. But as you still should be under warranty contact support

@MrSwiss14 I would highly recommend if you have not already reached out to us at our support line of support@matterhackers.com or our phone line of 949-613-5838 you do so. We are more than happy to figure out what is going on with the printer and figure out what happened. We will need to clarify and if possible get videos of what you have described as there are multiple factors that can cause what you have described and seeing exactly how the printer reacts will point us in the right direction. I have crossed out the recommendation from Martin as I do not agree with his input on this matter. There are a number of factors to consider and my team and I would want to take a closer look before we recommend any further action. Thank you,

Had A little break in printing so trying HIPS part right now Also Nozzle on E3D V6 came loose again - does that every 5-6kg of filament anyone know why?

@michael-petitclerc how long has this bug been active? I did an update months ago and then got rid of my Makerbot because my PC quit talking to it. I blamed it on the Makerbot update. Now I have a Tevo Tornado. And when I connect it automatically recognizes it as a "RAMP" on the port. But wont act. My arduino wont compile because it doesnt see the printer. And when I look at the driver properties, its a matterhackers driver. I uninstalled matterhackers slicer months ago. NO other slicer will work either. Likely due to the driver. Your thoughts on this?

@michael-petitclerc Thank you. It's set correctly to D-211. I haven't added Viki yet but will contact support when I do.

@michael-petitclerc thank you for the suggestion. I give the increased bed temp a try.

@mpirringer said in So let down...: Hotend mount needs to be redesigned and printed out of something that is not RYNO currently some of the parts I printed out of HIPS namely the ones that are close to the bed - otherwise you do a big hips or ABS prit with the bed at 100 and the bottom of the fan shroud will deform from the heat of the bed. The fan even when perfect blows too much onto the nozzle or the bed you can't keep the nozzle at 270 and bed at 85 + if the fan is at 100% 60% max will work at any temp. The leg of the BL touch is unprotected and I currently level manually as every time a print comes loose I lost a leg and replacing it 3x is enough for me. The wires in the back of the heater block also need protecting so that should be designed differently too. Thanks for all the info! yeah I lost a few bl touch legs too, I ended up designing a small switch that would raise a magnet and springs would pull the touch down and then after leveling would lower the magnet and pull the sensor back up just a few mm and that seemed to be a nice tweak.

@michael-petitclerc Thanks again, this makes a lot of sense. I think I had some initial misunderstanding about how the Palette keeps the printer in sync with the filament splices it's producing. If I end up ordering a Palette, I fully anticipate having to feed the magic gerbils before each print!

I print with a .8 Nozzle and when I changed up after changing it in the printer settings I had to go close the program and go back in. But that was quite a few versions ago. Also you know that slicing for a .8 nozzle a .6 layer height does not make much sense. I have never printed with carbon fiber but I assume the Nylon and pla around it does not melt any faster than regular Nylon or PLA or whatever. Now The fastest I got PLA flow on a V6 and still get a decent print is about 13 mm3/sec For Nylons its 8 t0 10. So if you use PLA and you are running it hot so you can get the 13mm3/sec that means printing MH PLA at 225 (slower and you drop to 11 mm3/sec) then your fastest print speed at .6 layer height will be about 26mm/sec (.8 * .6 is roughly .5 and 13/ .5 is 26). that means at .4 its about 40mm/sec. Furthermore tests have shown that the best layer adhesion with pretty much any material is between 25 and 50 % nozzle diameter so for a .8 its between .2 and .4. So printing at .6 makes no sense at all you get a crappier print with poor layer adhesion and even worse if you don't dial down the speed to above mentioned range I did a video on that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kugqYO-Jang&t=54s I Got a pulse C232 too

@dpc , Do you have a link to the firmware download? Also the name of the file? Thanks.

I had that and if you have the same screen I do then there are 2 connectors and if one is reversed or not plugged in right you will get exactly what you describe. also check the connectors in the electronics box. If you are not sure you might want to get them on the phone for that. But those display connectors are not of the locking kind and a tumble in the box in transit can dislodge them But then you could have a bad part too. Electronics usually fails in the first 72-96 hours of running If it survives it usually lasts until somewhere to its designed MTF which is usually measured in years (unless something happens like a short or arcing etc.) One thing you could check to see if its a display problem or something else is to connect to it with a computer with MC. The pulse will work without a display tethered to a computer. Then at least you would know where to look for the problem

@mpirringer , Thanks for the info. I'm printing directly through USB so it always runs the leveling with the probe. I will try flipping the build plate. Thanks again.

I know I have seen that. But the problem is that even a new clip or flipping it over did not do the trick cause it probably popped out too often and a new ptfe tube did not stay in long either problem is the pulse makes quit a bend there especially if you go left and right all the way often if its a big print and we only do big prints. The little black grommet inside with the teeth is probably worn out and MH don't have them and it takes a while to get them from Bond tech so now this seems to be working so far and atm idk if this is going to become permanent or will be removed when the little black gromets come in. The extruder shold probably be horizontal instead of vertical to take the strain off which would require some different routing of the filament from the spool holder. From a design standpoint you want to keep the number of direction changes to a minimum and at the very least could eliminate the one going from vertical to horizontal by putting the extruder that way in the first place. But Now also the current wires wold be too short so to do that will become a whole project

@michael-petitclerc The shift occurs only on Y-axis. I then checked the Z-screws: Right: -1.52mm Left: -1.58mm The Z-screws are in in the correct position. This is how they appear with the gantry at home point.

@mpirringer Thank you for your answer I've tried to find Print Recovery for further, but I can't see Options for Enable Recovery in MatterControl 2.0. Anyway, I'm not sure, how such way works, if power shut down will affect connected computer with MatterControl By the way, exporting of data to SD card takes about 4 minutes, it seems different from Cura process, which makes this in second. Maybe in this case would be better to write to SD Card from Cura. But I'm not sure, how to set Cura properly for Pulse XE and Nylon X, except temperatures, some guide on this would be also very useful