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@pverdin Try to close the gap - You want to direct all the air right under the nozzle where the filament comes out and no where else

This is related to getting the z offset in the firmware for the pulse and this is now under review to add the z offset I was told. still in testing.

@zoromer I guess we will see

Its most likely the wiring. Mine came without strain relief and wired in a way that the back and forth movement of the bed wiggled the connector and caused arcing and also eventually broke some wires So check for that with a meter

In this instance, it looks like you may want to check your cooling fan. Making sure that it is on 100%for PLA.

It used to always pop out not any more since I put this on Its been solid for months now. I published it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3869433

Can't really help with other brands, I find the one available that works for me and stick with it. Not one for experimenting.

When I upgraded the bed from 200 X 200 to 315 X 315, using the 12v supply it took 12-15 minutes to heat to 60c. By upgrading to another 24v supply It now takes 4-5 mins to heat to 80c. Not sure but I think the bed is rated to 110c.

Thanks, I'll check that out! Yah I got this printer mostly for those types of filaments so that way I didn't have to mess with changing things out on my other printers to do it. Just trying to get it dialed in a bit tighter but I suppose I should be using the filament I got it for lol. Using some Ryno and Nylon X so far, as well as testing with some PLA. I just need to figure this thing out and get it adjusted accordingly, it's close, but I'm need to do some more work Thanks again for the replies, I'll check it all out.

Check the connector on the Rambo mini board. I had the same thing. Mine came with the bed wire just hanging out of the box without strain relief now your bed keeps going back and forth and with that wiggles the connector which starts arcing and destroys the connector on the board. Pull the connector off if the one on the board is cracked or discolorated or shows other signs of arcing than this is the problem. Also watch the led - if you set the temp for lets say 80 and it say less than 76 and the light is not solid but off or blinking then you have temporarily no connection of power to the bed. also check the power at the bed. when you are heating. Set it to 80 and put a meter at the bed while its heating up it should get close to 12 Volts. If it does not check the voltage at the power imput plug if its low there too then its cause the PS cannot keep up. the Rambo mini instructions states a PS of >16 amps and the Pulse supply is 15A so if you heat both the hotend and Bed you run the PS at 100% and over so that is not too good if you want it to last. If there is no strain relief and the connectors are still fine - put some strain relief there. The PS should be at 12V or slightly above all the time. If you have the PS with the Din type plut then each pin is rated at 7.5 A max and the bed draws more than that.

Thanks Erik, Add it to the wish list of the programmers I suspected I would have to re-calibrate but always looking for a shortcut.

I will take a look, I guess I am more concerned about these "out of filament" messages when it's loaded and ready to roll.

@erievon I am afraid we do not see the photo you are trying to upload, could you give it another shot? Generally, you would want a first layer to look flat and "Squished" together. I look forward to seeing the photo and helping out!

Suggest you call tech support on this. I know hobby king sells belts and they are sold as 3d printer belt cause seems like they all use the same size - but I'd call MH just to make sure. Otherwise mine loops through the bracket and flips ove on itself so its own teeth engage and you either got a bracket or a zip tie or something like that to keep it engaged

@lpinney motors (all of them) generate heat from being powered up.... BUT they cool off when moving due to air flow past the moving parts. unfortunately if they stop moving the heat cannot dissipate and they heat up.... a problem with this is that the hotter they get the lower the coil resistance, more heat = lower ohms = more heat = lower ohms etc etc... otherwise known as thermal runaway. ok so that explains the over heating... now its simply(???) a case of why has it stopped turning... something jamming it? friction or foreign matter in the extruder feed/ gearing?.... the flattened filament is probably simply due to the overheat which coupled with no movement causes heat deformation. likely causes are blockages, foreign matter in the motor/ extruder interface (good posh word that is) or an underpowered motor..... good luck with the search malcolm

G29 does not work on the pulse they must have disabled it in the firmware

@dirtbikes987 Do you have a printer setup and profile for cura for the pulse? If you do can you possibly share it? I got one form Matterhackers last year but it sent my hot into the bed so I put the printer back int he closet again. Its been a year - so its time to try again....

@mpirringer Thanks for the in-depth response, I will give this a try but not today, not enough time today. I will let you know what I find.

Yeah and you get a packet with every roll