@azplasma That is a Nylon issue where it warps the plate right off the magnetic bed. When this happens, pull forces up to 43,000 psi can be exerted on the build plate.

To solve this issue, you need to adhere a new layerlock sheet to something magnetic other than spring steel. I suggest purchasing a custom cut galvinized steel sheet 0.100" thick. This will have even greater adhesion to the magnetic base and will not bend from warping.

I have a working profile in that Cura, it's based on this profile: https://help.matterhackers.com/article/210-pulse-cura-configuration but I found that importing it as the guide suggests is a bit buggy. I did the following To set it up in cura:

settings>Printer>add printer Add non-network printer>custom FFF Printer Copy these settings

Start G-code:
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute positioning
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
G29 ; mesh bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp

G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z10 F1800
G1 E20 F100
G1 X100 Z0.3 E45 F900
G92 E0
G1 E-2 F2400

End G-code
G92 E0
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M107 ; turn off fan
G1 X0 Y210; home X axis and push Y forward
G28 Z0
M84 ; disable motors

I looked for the direct drive files but I couldn't find them. I am not sure where I found them, I will ask Taylor if I am imagining things lol. Your direct drive looks really nice, keep going on the project.

You don't have to stow the needle all the way, but it is something that can drag on a print blob. With my protector, you can have the needle slightly out and the ramps will help drag over something tall.

BLTouch Protector

Does the Pulse XE even support Linear Advance? Just got mine and M900 is not recognized by the firmware.

@xc68000 Prusa mk3s may fit, you will need to make adjustments. I think you are better off mounting a BMG to the existing mount.

@sugarhood-nye
I like print PETG on sanded Garolite, no glue needed. Or I also use borosilicate glass and hair spray. A textured PEI plate can also be printed on. Garolite is my favorite.

Try these settings
Nozzle 2740-245C
Bed 75C (80C for Garolite)
First Layer 10-15mm/s
Additional layers 25mms perimeters
Infill 40mm/s
Fan OFF (never use the fan until absolutely needed)

If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try ten times again...

I am not sure why such a simple project took me so many times to complete. So I finally got the idler the correct size with the Gates machined pulley. The original pulley is smooth with a 3mm bolt shaft. You are not supposed to use a flat pulley on the tooth side of belt. I used the M3 bolt, but with a 6mm aluminum spacer. Works perfectly and will keep the teeth fresh.

I own very large industrial printers which use these larger nozzle sizes. I disagree with the part being stronger with larger layers. And you lose your precision around hardware openings. Just because they say it on Youtube, does not mean that it is true. These channels are opinion hosts. Take a look at my Pulse custom parts thread. I can give you my petg settings, but they will vary depending on your hotend hardware. I just designed and installed a new hotend which lowers the heat sink temperature for cleaner clear petg printing.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Or visit us on Discord here: MatterHackers Discord Server

My clear petg. I prefer to print with clear, as the pigments tend to make petg "Goopy" to print.

The Pulse firmware is available on Github. But you will need to compile a custom build for that board.
Alternatively, if you follow any of my posts, you can add a Duet mini 5, use my compile which is already made. I have been working on a new electronics enclosure for this. In my opinion, Duet makes the best cnc boards for printing.

Lifted feet for the lower pulleys. Also smooths out the harsh shaking while printing.

Even if you don't use the Gates modified tensioner, I am finding that the modified x-axis idle side bracket slides nicer than the original one with the original tensioner. I used a 8mm straight ream in the linear rod slots and they fit nice at snug.

X Idler Gates Mod Tension Files

X Idler Gates Mod Files

I bought a spool of Ninjaflex recently and have not had any unexpected problems on my Pulse-XE.

The parts I have printed with it using the profile for Matterhackers flex filament were good - not beautiful, but functional. I think it's tough to tweak it in to get high quality, but what I got was adequate.

One thing I would mention is that I pitched the stock Bowden tube and replaced it with a Capricorn tube of much higher quality and tolerances - That is important for printing with Bowden tube printers and Ninjaflex - You don't want a lot of room in the tube for the filament to bind against the walls.

@intj123 I use no glue. Nylon adheres to exposed fibers on Matterhackers layer lock. After you remove your print, you must resand the surface.

@bedellkw I have both slice engineering and E3D hot ends. In my opinion, the E3D is better. The first time you get a clog in the hypodermic needle on the Mosquito, you will understand why I prefer E3D. I do not use a "stock" E3D. I have a E3D copper block, I use Sliceengineering heaters and p1000 thermo couplers and a titanium heat break. And I use a metalic nut on the threaded heat sink. To quick change the nozzles I use a nozzle t-wrench and a "thin" 16mm spanner to hold the block. With these proper tools, the nozzles are easy and quick to change.

Use hardened nozzles only. If the nozzle becomes clogged, heat with a torch until cherry red. This will burn off the plastic, but ruin the tempered steel. With the cherry red nozzle, drop into antifreeze coolant in a metal tin can. This will re-harden the nozzle and you can continually use it this way.

@cope413 Just to recap, when we started, the Z motors were dialed too high and acting up. Not sure if we determined why this was set this way...

We then re flashed the firmware. PID calibration obviously is not working or providing us reasonable values...

My first calibration gave me
KP 7.74
Ki 0.19
Kd 79.95

My second calibration gave me
KP 9.29
Ki 0.41
Kd 53.00

These kept the hotend 20c below the set temp no matter what I set it at.

We then bumped those up to your suggestions (still not sure why a self PID calibration did not give us reasonable values)

Now its getting higher but staying 3-4 degrees below set temp and fluxing heavily between 3-4c below set temp. This is with the nozzle even at HOME Z up and away from the bed.

So what we still have is a lot of unanswered questions on why this specific printer is acting so strangely...to begin with.

Spoke to David Gaylord and at this point, we both are just not sure why we are still messing with this printer when it clearly had issues early on....