@mlamparter If you have filament up by the heatbreak - then this is where it came from You will definitely need a new nozzle and it is very difficult to get a heatbreak clean enough after an incident like this so you might need to replace it. To clean the inside of the block - heat it with a hot air gun to about 300 C then use an M6 bolt to clean out the thread for the heatbrea/nozzle it is a thread all the way through. If the thread is damaged then the block is shot too.

@mpirringer I just got the printer 2 days ago so a loose wire or bad thermistor would be disappointing. I did re-run the PID tune again and now the printer seems to be holding the correct temperature. That's for the help.

@branbepic We only use PLA for something like this IOW things that hang on the wall This too has been printed on the Chiron too. All of our prints are done with a Volcano Clone and a .8 nozzle The gears inside the wheel are Nyon 910 from taulman the Tire is TPU from Zyltech the rest curently is Zyltech ABS. Here we Acetone welded it together We are building a robot that will be 26 in dia octagonal on the bottom and 5 ft tall. All prints are solid pieces of plastic The frame has almost 9kg of ABS in it . The white stuff is styrofoam covered in bugscreen and paint to make a good base for some 8 an 10 oz fiberglass and probably some woven roving in places The gearbox and wheels will drive it. I got some kids working on the head that will be semi translucent PETG and look something like the logo above (hopefully) and others work on things like pylleyse And other brackets and mounts. And 3 more gearboxes. at least . the whole machine should weigh 80-100 lb when done

@mpirringer Thank you so much for your input.

@lado Yeah you better find out. And when you do please post your results as I might upgrade mine at some point

I couldn't get the photo working in the initial post, so here's this

@thwclw Under printer there is a gcode section and I use copy and paste you can also get it with copy and paste from a gcode file that you sliced on the sd card. Its usually at the beginning something that looks like this is the start code on my c232 G28 ; home all axes M190 S[bed_temperature] M109 S[temperature] ; Purge G92 E0 G0 X5 Y5 Z0.8 F1800 G1 X230 E50 Z0.3 F900 G92 E0 And this is the end code ; Retract and move away G91 G1 E-[retract_length] F[retract_speed] G90 G0 X5 Y210 F[travel_speed] G28 Z0 M104 S0 ; turn off temperature M140 S0 ; turn off heat bed M106 S0 ; turn off layer fan M84 ; disable motors It pays if you familiarize yourself with g-code cause its always better if you actually know what you are doing

What you describe sonds like you are forming a "puck" or printing at too low a temperature. If its an all metal hotend the nozzle might not be tightened properly and if you have a puck once you will get it over and over until you properly clean and assemble the hotend. You also could have your extruder improperly so it does not push the filament properly. You also could be printing too fast for your setup (filament/temp) and then your heater cartridge or thermistor could be loose and the temp the printer thinks the hotend is on is not the actual temp.

@plew You need MC for bed leveling but not for slicing. So slice with whatever and then instead of loading the STL load the Gcode file generated by the other slicer and run it from MC. If you run it from the sd card - at leas my pulse - does not have filament out detection and power resume etc. If your head starts over sudden high - delete the printer and create a new one - not a big deal if you are using a different slicer for slicing. I personally liker SLIC3R/Prusa Slicer as it has a lot of neat features like Max volumetric E and you easily can configure layer width. Keep the layer height between 25 and 50% nozzle diameter and the outside perimeter at 110% nozzle diameter and if you use a genuine E3D nozzle you can go on the inside perimeters and infill up to 200% of the nozzle diameter. (speeds up printing) If you use a nozzle >.5 read these tutorials about establishing flow https://workbench.grabcad.com/martin.pirringer-2/tutorials

That's all I tightened t it too, ironically I noticed it after reading up on printer maintenance and how tight to keep your belts.

@spaceghost191 I know its a 12 V powersupply what I meant is check if you get 12 V or 11 or 10 etc

@neutronken It will do it again and again that is why mine is apart. 1.) The wires from the bed need a strain relief otherwise the connectors on the board wiggle back and forth as the bed moves and arc and that melts the connector. etc. your mosfet is probably fine but the connector is shot - the only way to save it maybe is break the plastic out, clean up the studs and solder to it. 2.) You will have the same problem on the power input only it will take at least 2x as long. The problem is the Pulse runs at 12 V and has only a 15 Amps PSU (where the rambo website says use 16A minimum at 12 V. Plus you need heavier wires to the bed if you run it close to 100 and wires that are high flex silicon insulated and 14 gauge or less so they dont get hot plus it should run underneath it with a drag chain. 3.) You'd be better off to replace the PSU with a 24 V 15 A. or at least 24 V 10A but most are 360 watts or so. For that you will have to replace the heating cartridge and fan on the V6 and change the wiring on the bed. 4.) It is also suggested that there is cooling on the mosfets both the one for the bed and the Hotend IOW the case should have at least a 5010 fan or better blowing across the board to keep the heat down. Cause if you run the pulse like me (Bed 100 hotend 260-290) then some areas of the board will get quite hot. So to make the Pulse a sound printer it needs at least a 24V PSU, 24V hotend, an electronics case with a fan, the wiring properly run to get rid of the "birds nest effect" And a different hotend mount preferably not done in Ryno that does not either cause a thermal runaway on the bed or the hotend when you run the printer hot as described above I am also working on an enclosure for mine, and change the mount of the extruder and put the filament on top of the cage and change the hotend mount with one with a better fan. So II think the only thing that might stay original is the extruder and the frame and the X/y/Z motors and mounts

@beard OOPs that one was so obvious I did not mention it - sorry. They should put a big sticker on it or join the 21st century and find a mb/firmware/display combo that can handle a bigger format.

@cdk Good luck even though hotend problems usually are wear and tare - doesn't take much to kill one. I got a pulse and its undergoing major surgery. IMO its a printer that is grossly overpriced and misrepresented. I Bought a 2 Chirons, upgraded them to all metal and such for less than I paid for the pulse. Did have some issues too but less than with the pulse. But then we had some problem with makerbots and ultimakers too. So if you 3DP you will be fixing printers - no matter what you spend. I know some people who have some funmat HT and markforged X3 and they need fixing too. HTH

@mnicholson766 There are quite some restrictions on this BBS you cant upload a high res picture. Save it at a resulution or 800x600 or thereabouts. But it sounds to me the nozzle is too far away from the bed. In different versions of MC you had to either increase or decrease the Z-offset as they changed the sign between different versions. I only use MC for bed leveling anymore and us Prusa slicer for everything else

@pverdin Guess you are the lucky one. Hope it stays that way

@cdk I have no in between layer code. I use the same start and end code in Prusa slicer as the default code in MC is. As the G code is not slicer dependent but machine specific. So you can copy and paste the Start and end code from MC that is the proper one done by Matterhackers for the the type of Pulse you have. Currently my Pulse is going through some major changers/upgrades in between other projects so my start and end codes are being messed with quite a bit and are a work in progress.