How do you "have it set to do a bed leveling process before each print"? What is your start gcode?

@olli-rita you can print to sdcard, there is a guide for that on these forums

@cpat The controls should be the same from Mac to Windows, but I cannot confirm this as I only have access to Windows and Linux versions.

@pthardy2 depends on your printer. There should be a label on the back of the D frame near the top.

It sounds like you have either a lose wire or a bad panda sensor. I would check this first. There is updated firmware available. You will need to contact Matterhackers support for this firmware. This removes the smoothieware and runs Marlin. I used this for awhile on my Pulse XE. It seemed to help, but I still had a few bugs I could not solve. I was tired of trying to fix these issues and I installed a Duet3D mini 5 board. You can find my modification on the forum.

https://github.com/MatterHackers/PulseOpenSource

Printer x-axis is still perfectly level. I am in about 15,000 parts since the creation of the modification. I checked the clearances with my calipers and it is still right on. No longer worry about part separation or mid print failures from the gantry being out of sync. Before printing, I set Z=0, probe the bed in 106 spots, load height map and print.

You can put borosilicate glass on a steel Buildtak plate. Print PLA all day on that, doesn't wear out.

@gonzer I find that printing with the bed hot (75c-85c) ensures that the filament contours into the build surface, specifically the PEI, and I also disable the part cooling fan for the first 3-5 layers

@tinken no disagreement overall, just making sure that issues are addressed in the most logical order. I'm hesitant to recommend things that aren't regularly necessary because I've seen some absurd things over the years - including people loading up with lithium or moly grease to the point where it gums up the lead screws/nuts and requires full replacement of the nuts and printed parts. A dry lube or a penetrating film type lube like you've described TinkSeal being would be much better options than a grease or oil.

From the spec sheets online, the mk8 thread length is shorter but it is still M6 diameter. Therefore, the nozzle will work as long as the top of the threads from the nozzle bottom out on the hotend heartbreak. If the nozzle shoulder bottoms out on the heater block, then a gap will exist inside the heater block causing the filament to leak out and flood the hotend.

@mavin Those are great until they clog. Hardened steel can be heated with a blow torch to burn out the plastic. Just make sure you quench it in antifreeze to retain it's hardness.

@mavin Exhaust fans are not a good idea for the enclosure unless you are only printing PLA. All other materials like the warmer temperatures inside the cabinet. I sealed my two holes off. If you are printing Nylon, the off gassing is hydrogen cyanide, and Nylon requires heat in the chamber.

@tinken the small black ring the c-clip slots onto was the key. Had to press down on it, tube came right out. The support team was on the phone with me and made me fell dooooo

@thwclw The tire on this is TPU purchased from tonerplastics and printed on a chiron with a Volcano with a .8 at .88 outside perimeters and 1.4mm insideperimeters at a max speed of 50mm/sec governed at 15mm3/sec max volumetric E. So you can print TPU faster too. As for switching from PETG to TPU or TPU to PETG mid print - I have not tried that. Some materials stick to each other - some don't It might delaminate where you switch from PETG to TPU

I believe they are 2.5mm

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#main