@damianoffthegrid I have an older model with a rambo mini board. But the board out to not be the difference. Here is what I did. I slice in prusa slicer based on an MK2 profile. (I copied the start and end Gcode into PS). Then I save the Gcode file to disk. Then load the gcode file in MC and print. All MC does or used to do is to add the bed leveling to it that means change the Z positions where it is on the field. I was considering writing a script to post process in prusa slicer. But for now its sitting in pieces and I will make my mind what I do with it - it probably will become a very different printer as I was quite unhappy with a range of things. I should have bought 2 other printers for the price of one pulse. Currently I mostly print with Anycubic Chirons. One thing to watch out. IDK what the current version of MC does but some versions did not add the start/end code some did so double check if yo get double start and end code remove it in one of the 2 slicers so you only get it once. I also found that MC is leaking quite badly or at least used to so it pays to after every print - especially if it was a big one - to exit to the desktop and then restart the software.

@surfmagic In Mattercontrol, on the printer menu at right side of screen, on the "Features" tab, near the bottom, there are two parameters: "Load Filament Length" and "Unload Filament Length." I have not played around with them yet, but I had a similar issue going back from NylonX to Ryno - I tried to yank the filament out when it hit resistance at the extruder by releasing tension on the extruder gears, and it popped out using moderate force without doing any damage. Not sure if those parameters work like I think they do (piss poor documentation from Matterhackers) but maybe it's worth a try.

Ok thanks I got an answer from support. These grey cables actually fit both so yiou can make a mistake. but they said the one with a black mark goes to the right and the other to the left. It worked anyway.

I still have no idea what the >>106% was for. I think maybe Matterhackers support has found a convenient excuse for doing nothing - like so many other companies, it's all Covid19's fault. I am so sick of that lame excuse. I work from home, and I worked every day for the six weeks I had covid. It was like a mild flu and I had to to take frequent breaks, but it was not so debilitating that I could no longer function. No way could I sit on my ass for that long and do nothing. So far, the hype about Matterhackers support was just that - Hype, maybe their family and friends seeded comments about how great they are, but when push comes to shove, pretty poor support. They have lots of little videos and they are pretty good, but who wants to go to video everytime they want to find something out. I too, wish I had just waited for the Prusa, would have been cheaper and much more well supported, and no tether to a preferred slicer with Prusa either. I bought the 32 bit upgrade (at double a fair price) and cannot find anything on the web about it other than at the smoothieware website. Just wanted to use Cura to see if it was better than Mattercontrol, but was forced to just nuke it out on my own. Would have been nice if they had a nice little "how to" on that. I wasn't going to rant about this, but I'm just tired of it.

@cope413 Wrong paper - and even what you circle shows anisotropy As you like stratsys here are 2 links there https://uzcwd39yh8l1ul8th1szmq3x-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Fathom_Spec_Sheet_Nylon_12.pdf https://uzcwd39yh8l1ul8th1szmq3x-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/Spec_Sheet_Nylon_12CF_EN_SSYS_Fathom.pdf Which shows the CF variety stronger in the one direction and considerably weaker in the other (ZX azxis) and considerably weaker on the impact. Which means you might get a stronger part in one direction but if you want one in all directions you migth be better off with the unfilled version. And if impact is a consideration the unfilled is definitely better OTOH if you look for stiffness (less bending when you put weight on it ) the CF is definitely better. So that holds water with the fragments adding abrasion resistence and stiffness and taking away from the overall (on every axis) strength. Does not make one better than the other just more useful then the other for a particular task. Putting aside the greater difficulty in printing CF filled assumining you have mastered that it still comes down to from what you want from a part like with any material thats why tires are made from rubber and windshields from glass and not the other way around. What I take exception to is to always push the most expensive most profit $$$ generating except what might be the most useful for a part. I print almost nothing in PLA cause its the wrong material for what I print Its tensile strength is probably the strongest of all (except some fancy engineering grade materials) but its super brittle (no impact resistance) and grinds itself up when used as gears and not even getting started on the heat resistance which is extremely low. But if I print a chess set or a dice tower which from time to titme I do I use it and If I print a tire I use TPU Like here https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/d/f/df23ce1d914c8351a4ee66cefefde5eedad8a510.gif The Tire is TPU the rim and gears are Taulman 910 and the holder is ABS (that gets wrapped into some 17 oz woven roving and 10 oz glass And I could show you an omni wheel from PETG and TPU as its the right material in the price range we had to work with tough enough and cheaper than Nylon. Here is a look at the inside https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/e/1/e13c9a76038521ea4459663ed1f32ea2f808af87.jpeg And this prototype is printed in HIPS https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/0/0/006c7575563604a4bea24ba92c0328a11db43c3a.jpeg as we get it for <$10/kg and it hurts less when you make a part that does not fit or work as desired - you are looking at over 4kg of HIPS. Now I tried a good number of your filaments and had no luck with the MH stuff for what we print and whenever I asked it was obviously something I must have done wrong so IDK you except from here but that Matterhacker label does not help me to have much confidence in you. And yet I/we print over 100kg worht of stuff successfully a year. I myself cranked out 4400 prusa faceshields last year mostly from HIPS and Zyltech PETG and ABS (if someone drops something off at your house to turn it into a faceshield you do whatever it is I would have printed weed whacker line at that point). As for ABS - I wasted 2 kg of MH ABS cause it split and warped yet here are 1.5 kg of ABS in one part (Zyltech) https://www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/c/1/c12a5114693164c2f1d913f64317e420c0634d50.jpeg took a little over 20 hours to print sliced with Prusa slicer printed with a volcano hotend on a Chiron (thats a 400x400 build plate) with a .8 nozzle .4 layer height .88 outside perimeter width 1.5mm inside perimeter width I think somewhere between 8 or 12 perimeters I forgot. If you want I give you the STL and you can try printing it in MH build ABS.

@cope413 IDK what you do now but my pulse (C232) all parts were Ryno even got a roll with it. Now it was/is fine except for the fan shrouds which I went through a few until I reprinted one in ABS and the bottom part of the mount which warped and deformed. Guess that is what happens if you print big parts with the bed at 100C and the Ryno part hovering just mm above the 100C bed for prolonged times. Pulse was a good idea at that time with poor execution. IDK where you guys are at now with it

@rbradford1111 Its supposed to be tight and not moving but the E3D are a pain to assemble right

ohhhh the old " i hope its not going to carve thru my garolite again " feeling. dont i know that too well

cool, thank you!

@cope413 I was a fan of 1.75 but - well I have not talked to you in person I think and I tried to help I don't want to post my phone # here in public but you should still have it and my email also as I have an account. So I got the time - just call me anytime and I can give you a list in private. Or you can look through past emails now more than a year ago where I detailed the shortcomings. I got a long list for MC and the pulse too

@mpirringer I just got the printer 2 days ago so a loose wire or bad thermistor would be disappointing. I did re-run the PID tune again and now the printer seems to be holding the correct temperature. That's for the help.

@branbepic We only use PLA for something like this IOW things that hang on the wall This too has been printed on the Chiron too. All of our prints are done with a Volcano Clone and a .8 nozzle The gears inside the wheel are Nyon 910 from taulman the Tire is TPU from Zyltech the rest curently is Zyltech ABS. Here we Acetone welded it together We are building a robot that will be 26 in dia octagonal on the bottom and 5 ft tall. All prints are solid pieces of plastic The frame has almost 9kg of ABS in it . The white stuff is styrofoam covered in bugscreen and paint to make a good base for some 8 an 10 oz fiberglass and probably some woven roving in places The gearbox and wheels will drive it. I got some kids working on the head that will be semi translucent PETG and look something like the logo above (hopefully) and others work on things like pylleyse And other brackets and mounts. And 3 more gearboxes. at least . the whole machine should weigh 80-100 lb when done

@mpirringer Thank you so much for your input.

@lado Yeah you better find out. And when you do please post your results as I might upgrade mine at some point

I couldn't get the photo working in the initial post, so here's this