@olli-rita said in Printing from SD using PrusaSlicer:

When printing from SD in PS and there's no USB tethering, how do I pause, change filament and resume print on a Pulse XE E-423S with smoothie board. I can't find any way of continue printing in the printer dash?

To pause, change filament, and resume a print on a Pulse XE E-423S printer with a Smoothieboard when printing from an SD card:

Pause the print on the printer's control panel.
Retract the filament manually.
Replace with new filament.
Edit the G-code file to include a pause and filament change command at the desired layer.
Save and transfer the edited G-code file to the SD card.
Resume the print from the SD card.

Needs to be 100% infill. Lines should work, but you need to flatten the layers. You can use less heat with a copper nozzle.

@tinken When you say nearly identical, does that mean I can use MK3 profile without worry, on MH website it says Smoothie needs a different method of creating a profile, but there's no link or other references, on FB group somebody mentioned it is not straight forward and needs special settings?

@azplasma That is a Nylon issue where it warps the plate right off the magnetic bed. When this happens, pull forces up to 43,000 psi can be exerted on the build plate.

To solve this issue, you need to adhere a new layerlock sheet to something magnetic other than spring steel. I suggest purchasing a custom cut galvinized steel sheet 0.100" thick. This will have even greater adhesion to the magnetic base and will not bend from warping.

I have a working profile in that Cura, it's based on this profile: https://help.matterhackers.com/article/210-pulse-cura-configuration but I found that importing it as the guide suggests is a bit buggy. I did the following To set it up in cura:

settings>Printer>add printer Add non-network printer>custom FFF Printer Copy these settings

Start G-code:
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute positioning
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
G29 ; mesh bed leveling
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp

G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z10 F1800
G1 E20 F100
G1 X100 Z0.3 E45 F900
G92 E0
G1 E-2 F2400

End G-code
G92 E0
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M107 ; turn off fan
G1 X0 Y210; home X axis and push Y forward
G28 Z0
M84 ; disable motors

I looked for the direct drive files but I couldn't find them. I am not sure where I found them, I will ask Taylor if I am imagining things lol. Your direct drive looks really nice, keep going on the project.

You don't have to stow the needle all the way, but it is something that can drag on a print blob. With my protector, you can have the needle slightly out and the ramps will help drag over something tall.

BLTouch Protector

Does the Pulse XE even support Linear Advance? Just got mine and M900 is not recognized by the firmware.

@xc68000 Prusa mk3s may fit, you will need to make adjustments. I think you are better off mounting a BMG to the existing mount.

@sugarhood-nye
I like print PETG on sanded Garolite, no glue needed. Or I also use borosilicate glass and hair spray. A textured PEI plate can also be printed on. Garolite is my favorite.

Try these settings
Nozzle 2740-245C
Bed 75C (80C for Garolite)
First Layer 10-15mm/s
Additional layers 25mms perimeters
Infill 40mm/s
Fan OFF (never use the fan until absolutely needed)

If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try ten times again...

I am not sure why such a simple project took me so many times to complete. So I finally got the idler the correct size with the Gates machined pulley. The original pulley is smooth with a 3mm bolt shaft. You are not supposed to use a flat pulley on the tooth side of belt. I used the M3 bolt, but with a 6mm aluminum spacer. Works perfectly and will keep the teeth fresh.

I own very large industrial printers which use these larger nozzle sizes. I disagree with the part being stronger with larger layers. And you lose your precision around hardware openings. Just because they say it on Youtube, does not mean that it is true. These channels are opinion hosts. Take a look at my Pulse custom parts thread. I can give you my petg settings, but they will vary depending on your hotend hardware. I just designed and installed a new hotend which lowers the heat sink temperature for cleaner clear petg printing.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Or visit us on Discord here: MatterHackers Discord Server

My clear petg. I prefer to print with clear, as the pigments tend to make petg "Goopy" to print.

The Pulse firmware is available on Github. But you will need to compile a custom build for that board.
Alternatively, if you follow any of my posts, you can add a Duet mini 5, use my compile which is already made. I have been working on a new electronics enclosure for this. In my opinion, Duet makes the best cnc boards for printing.

Lifted feet for the lower pulleys. Also smooths out the harsh shaking while printing.

Even if you don't use the Gates modified tensioner, I am finding that the modified x-axis idle side bracket slides nicer than the original one with the original tensioner. I used a 8mm straight ream in the linear rod slots and they fit nice at snug.

X Idler Gates Mod Tension Files

X Idler Gates Mod Files