@tinken my thoughts exactly on the plastic heat sink nut. Not to mention without a socket , trying to tighten in with say a crescent wrench is not the easiest thing to do. But i guess its plastic and cannot withstand that amount of tightening anyway.
@thwclw Try using my firmware on a new SDcard (keeping yours as is just in case). If the extruder runs backwards, I believe we can that without compiling Marlin.
@branbepic Had the same problems, was dry bearings. I dissembled the whole printer and re-greased with TinkSeal. Everything runs smooth now, no more grinding noises.
@larsbrubaker Hi Lars, when you say 'should be fixed in the current build' which issues from above are you referring t?. I have quit trying to use mattercontrol from my macbook since there are constant usb connection issues. I haven't experienced SD card problems though. Moving to windows those problems have gone away.
I see you are listed on the github matterhackers repository. Are you aware that with a new and current vscode, platformio, and marlinautobuild the repo will not compile. I have brought this up repeatedly with tech support email and have received knowledgable replies only from Taylor, in that 'some libraries' probably need deprecated. Is it unreasonable to expect more details? Could someone there possibly do a new vscode install and document the steps necessary to compile the repo? I can compile repos from Marlin, Prusa, etc with no issues.
Although the pulse mechanically is a good enough printer I am starting to regret my purchase due to lack of useful and even remotely timely responses from tech support and constant mattercontrol weirdness. There are firmware settings that make the printer impossible to use standalone (extrude limits for load/unload for instance) and no documentation on what it takes to succesfully compile the repo. Taylor did get me a hex with the extrude limits properly set, but the speeds still make it mostly unusable. Simple changes if I could compile it. Thanks.
Ok thanks I got an answer from support. These grey cables actually fit both so yiou can make a mistake. but they said the one with a black mark goes to the right and the other to the left. It worked anyway.
@cope413 I was a fan of 1.75 but - well I have not talked to you in person I think and I tried to help I don't want to post my phone # here in public but you should still have it and my email also as I have an account. So I got the time - just call me anytime and I can give you a list in private. Or you can look through past emails now more than a year ago where I detailed the shortcomings. I got a long list for MC and the pulse too
@mpirringer I just got the printer 2 days ago so a loose wire or bad thermistor would be disappointing. I did re-run the PID tune again and now the printer seems to be holding the correct temperature. That's for the help.
What you describe sonds like you are forming a "puck" or printing at too low a temperature. If its an all metal hotend the nozzle might not be tightened properly and if you have a puck once you will get it over and over until you properly clean and assemble the hotend. You also could have your extruder improperly so it does not push the filament properly. You also could be printing too fast for your setup (filament/temp) and then your heater cartridge or thermistor could be loose and the temp the printer thinks the hotend is on is not the actual temp.
@beard OOPs that one was so obvious I did not mention it - sorry. They should put a big sticker on it or join the 21st century and find a mb/firmware/display combo that can handle a bigger format.
@mnicholson766 There are quite some restrictions on this BBS you cant upload a high res picture. Save it at a resulution or 800x600 or thereabouts. But it sounds to me the nozzle is too far away from the bed. In different versions of MC you had to either increase or decrease the Z-offset as they changed the sign between different versions. I only use MC for bed leveling anymore and us Prusa slicer for everything else
@bkfranklin22 Wow, sorry to hear about all the issues, especially with a new printer, mine is almost 18 months old and the majority of the issues have been "finger troubles" as I was green as grass when I started.
My run-out sensor was jammed with a stray chunk of filament that had broken off, easy fix. The probe was a intermittent wire in the harness for the probe. One issue with the motherboard that MH quickly replaced in the first month.
How does a ruby nozzle fail?
Not sure what I can suggest other then every mass produced things from cars to printers all have that "lemon" that wrecks it's reputation, they should just replace your printer (in my opinion).
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