@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.
If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool
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Hi My Pulse XE S-232 (Smoothieware) shows a value on the LCD watch page of >>106%
I have not been able to find documentation anywhere that describes the LCD menu item functionality and the 106% value doesn't seem to match anything in my slice settings - Does anyone know what it is?
Also is there a .PDF that has all the documentation for Matterhacker Pulse printers in one place, or is it only available as disjointed random video's and online "guides?"
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports.
I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here:
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!
That is a pretty old version - go to calibration I think its in the control section and under bed leveling there was an offset if you hover over it it say "thickness of paper" or something like that make sure that is 0 or real close to it and then level the bed. in this version the Z-offset works as intended so if you are too high you can put a negative number in the one under bed until you get it right but level first, Don;t upgrade until you fix that problem cause in current versions its even tougher to fix IMO. BTW I do not work for MH I am just an old dude with a Pulse (pun intended)
OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.
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