@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
My Ultimaker S3 printer doesn't have soft PLA as a material selection. It would be nice to update the library. Is that possible? Otherwise, I need to learn how to successfully create a need entry. Can anyone help with that?
@damianoffthegrid I have an older model with a rambo mini board. But the board out to not be the difference.
Here is what I did. I slice in prusa slicer based on an MK2 profile. (I copied the start and end Gcode into PS). Then I save the Gcode file to disk. Then load the gcode file in MC and print. All MC does or used to do is to add the bed leveling to it that means change the Z positions where it is on the field. I was considering writing a script to post process in prusa slicer. But for now its sitting in pieces and I will make my mind what I do with it - it probably will become a very different printer as I was quite unhappy with a range of things. I should have bought 2 other printers for the price of one pulse. Currently I mostly print with Anycubic Chirons. One thing to watch out. IDK what the current version of MC does but some versions did not add the start/end code some did so double check if yo get double start and end code remove it in one of the 2 slicers so you only get it once. I also found that MC is leaking quite badly or at least used to so it pays to after every print - especially if it was a big one - to exit to the desktop and then restart the software.
I am not sure specifically which brush that is but that looks to be a regular brass brush you can get at a hardware store.
Though, I would advise caution in using something like this with the machine powered up. If the heater cartridge cable comes loose and the brass touches the exposed wires, it can cause damage to your machine. I would advise only using this brush while the machine is disconnected from power.
walmart, target etc any place that sells cameras. But get one 16gb or smaller as many printers cannot handle bigger card. if you get a bigger one you got to split it so the first partition is smaller 16 gb
Hi! Thank you for replying. Else i have been just staring at all the forums
The thing is, the printer has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years.
I have even checked the installed firmware hex files and the comparisons show that all of these have been loaded successfully.
Inference : the board is receiving the firmware.
But it just doesnt get out of the bootloader mode.
I even opened up the control unit, cleaned the board, checked for sticky buttons.. But nothing! I feel sad.
@sparkes Try to play with the manual settings. When I tried to connect my Chiron it went to com4 at 115k baud and it did nothing changing it to com3 and 250k baud did the trick. Also make sure you have the driver installed that came with the A10 if it came with one
2.0 does indeed allow you to manually create and delete individual supports.
I have included a little beginning tutorial video we have done on the software here:
I guess pretty much the same as SLIC3R. I can't remember the last time I used supports. As its mostly mechanical parts I am printing and as I think 99.99% of what we are printing is designed in house its all designed to print without supports - Sorry. I just know there is an Auto and manual option
@mpirringer Thank you for the reply. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the wire sleeve on one side was pulled back a bit from the bulb. I may have clamped it down to hard and caused the short because of the un-sleeved bit of wire. I carefully replaced the thermistor into the block making sure the ends of the sleeves were in the hole with the bulb, and was careful to only lightly tighten the screw....and it appears to be working fine again. Thank you again!!