@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
My Ultimaker S3 printer doesn't have soft PLA as a material selection. It would be nice to update the library. Is that possible? Otherwise, I need to learn how to successfully create a need entry. Can anyone help with that?
@damianoffthegrid I have an older model with a rambo mini board. But the board out to not be the difference.
Here is what I did. I slice in prusa slicer based on an MK2 profile. (I copied the start and end Gcode into PS). Then I save the Gcode file to disk. Then load the gcode file in MC and print. All MC does or used to do is to add the bed leveling to it that means change the Z positions where it is on the field. I was considering writing a script to post process in prusa slicer. But for now its sitting in pieces and I will make my mind what I do with it - it probably will become a very different printer as I was quite unhappy with a range of things. I should have bought 2 other printers for the price of one pulse. Currently I mostly print with Anycubic Chirons. One thing to watch out. IDK what the current version of MC does but some versions did not add the start/end code some did so double check if yo get double start and end code remove it in one of the 2 slicers so you only get it once. I also found that MC is leaking quite badly or at least used to so it pays to after every print - especially if it was a big one - to exit to the desktop and then restart the software.
@wildbill360 Move the head to the 0,0,0 position (all the way bottom left the furthest away you can get from the extruder) Stick the tube into the hotend heatsink all the way and put the clip on then see how much tube you need for a comfortable fit to the extruder. Add about an inch as it sticks into the extruder and there is the length. If its a little too long its ok. Too short OTOH is bad as you always can cut a little off but you cant add. The If its a little longer than necessary it should not hurt In general you want it as short as reasonably possible
White often requires higher temps due to the dye/colorants used. Before you start going too deep into troubleshooting, try bumping the temp on the nozzle up 10-15C - keeping all other settings the same - and see what the results are.
@tmitch205 Depends. On the Jheads that come with the Anycubic Mega/Chirons the Volcano is a direct fit size wise. Now E3D uses Thermistor type 5 and some jheads do to. Some (And some V6 clones like the ones from Gulfcoast robotics which work as well as the original V6 with the same shortcoming) use Thermistor Type 1. Also Jheads are usually not all metal and in the firmware set to a max temp somewhere between 240 and 260. If you go to a V6 you can up that temp a bit in the Firmware. But if you only print PLA/PETG you can drop it right in unless the thermistor type is different Now thermistor type 1 and 5 are similar but if you run a 5 with the 1 table you are going to run it about 20C cool and if you run a 1 with a 5 you are going to be about 20 C hot - so its manageable but if you were printing PLA at lets say 215 the new temp might be 20 C more or less to get the same results
@mrihatespam01 Not on a CR10 but on multiple Anycubic printers. Unless you go thermocouple and copper block you will be limited to about 300C now both Semitec and Epcos can handle that and then some more. Now each thermistor either already has a table in marlin and you just change the thermistor type ot 1 or 5 or whateve it is or if you use a specialty one then you got to add a table and make it that custom number. Same if you go to thermocouple. When you buy them they usually either have a table to download or say its "Type (whatever)" Now then set the max temp to about 5 C above the maxtemp you want to print with so if your Thermistor/block/heatercartridge is limited to 290 then make it 295 to protect it and at the same time allow for some fluctuations. After you are done you will have to (most likely) run a PID tune and also re-level your bed.
@randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.
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