@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.
If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool
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Hi My Pulse XE S-232 (Smoothieware) shows a value on the LCD watch page of >>106%
I have not been able to find documentation anywhere that describes the LCD menu item functionality and the 106% value doesn't seem to match anything in my slice settings - Does anyone know what it is?
Also is there a .PDF that has all the documentation for Matterhacker Pulse printers in one place, or is it only available as disjointed random video's and online "guides?"
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
@mrihatespam01 Not on a CR10 but on multiple Anycubic printers. Unless you go thermocouple and copper block you will be limited to about 300C now both Semitec and Epcos can handle that and then some more. Now each thermistor either already has a table in marlin and you just change the thermistor type ot 1 or 5 or whateve it is or if you use a specialty one then you got to add a table and make it that custom number. Same if you go to thermocouple. When you buy them they usually either have a table to download or say its "Type (whatever)" Now then set the max temp to about 5 C above the maxtemp you want to print with so if your Thermistor/block/heatercartridge is limited to 290 then make it 295 to protect it and at the same time allow for some fluctuations. After you are done you will have to (most likely) run a PID tune and also re-level your bed.
@randal You have to create a custom printer if its not listed its the last option. You need to know your stuff like com port , baud rate etc for starters. Isn't there a slicer that came with the printer? they usually do like Cura or SLIC3R etc which IMO both are more powerful than MC - but if you like it - go for it
Looks like your Nozzle hit something on the print seems the x axis. That can happen if a part of the print curls up and then hits the nozzle. It can also be caused by a belt that is way too loose. You seem to print with a lot of perimeters and PLA seems to like to curl up on overhangs when you do that. Its one of the reasons I personally prefer other materials over PLA try to print it with 3 perimeters an a 10% infill or switch to PETG or ABS or HIPS if your printer can handle it
Get an Anycubic Chiron - we got 2 - its an animal. Big, 400x400x450, 24 V heated bed heats up quickly, out of the box good to print PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS and some nylons like bridge. For the hotter stuff replace the ptfe tube with a capricorn one. With that it will do 255-260 reliably. How reliably 50kg+ of HIPS eacg reliably so far. We had 2 fails between the 2 of them so far both a broken wire - one on the print head thermistor - one on the bed thermistor. Both came with standard wires and now have been replaced with silicon covered high flex ones. We figured the x axis wire failed after moving back and forth about 3 million times and the bed one after about 5 million times. We print a lot of big stuff in HIPS so the printer gets a real workout. They might get 30-40 minutes break a day (just enough to change filament and let the build plate cool down to about 60C to pop the print off. Otherwise its 255 nozzle 105 bed all the time. Oh and I broke a hotend cross threading the nozzle when changing the nozzle. But that is hardly the printers fault. Compared to a Pulse less than 5% the downtime of the Pulse.