@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.
If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool
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Hi My Pulse XE S-232 (Smoothieware) shows a value on the LCD watch page of >>106%
I have not been able to find documentation anywhere that describes the LCD menu item functionality and the 106% value doesn't seem to match anything in my slice settings - Does anyone know what it is?
Also is there a .PDF that has all the documentation for Matterhacker Pulse printers in one place, or is it only available as disjointed random video's and online "guides?"
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
You describe the exact situation I find myself in today. Recognizing your post is nearly 2 years old, I wonder what printer you chose and whether you were satisfied by its performance. Please let us know. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a good printer but would appreciate an objective review.
@portisroads Most likely a problem in the Start Gcode or in slicing. Please post that if you can and maybe the first 20 lines or so of the sliced files - I'd say all of the sliced file but MH has some quite stringed limits on what you can upload here
@bernardfunguy Which PLA and what temperature. Filaments print the same at the same temperature 1mm above the build plate or 400 (given you have a printer that goes that high)
IF the temp is too low you might form a "Puck" after a while that clogs your nozzle or you might have a wiring problem that shows at a certain height
Now stringing can be sometimes reduced with changing retraction and in some cases you got to live with it and remove it either mechanically or with a hot air gun
@ashira2020 Probably the best low budget choice would be either one of the Ender 3 Series from Creatlity or one from the Mega series from Mega series.
But at the same time I probably would not eat of FDM 3d Printed anything unless there is some major post processing done. The problem is not if the material itself is food safe. There are layers and where they meet there are little nooks in which bacteria can collect as its very difficult if not impossible to get into all of them to properly clean it after first use. So that would require to employ some surface smoothing post processing technique to eliminate them
@wildbill360 Move the head to the 0,0,0 position (all the way bottom left the furthest away you can get from the extruder) Stick the tube into the hotend heatsink all the way and put the clip on then see how much tube you need for a comfortable fit to the extruder. Add about an inch as it sticks into the extruder and there is the length. If its a little too long its ok. Too short OTOH is bad as you always can cut a little off but you cant add. The If its a little longer than necessary it should not hurt In general you want it as short as reasonably possible
White often requires higher temps due to the dye/colorants used. Before you start going too deep into troubleshooting, try bumping the temp on the nozzle up 10-15C - keeping all other settings the same - and see what the results are.
@tmitch205 Depends. On the Jheads that come with the Anycubic Mega/Chirons the Volcano is a direct fit size wise. Now E3D uses Thermistor type 5 and some jheads do to. Some (And some V6 clones like the ones from Gulfcoast robotics which work as well as the original V6 with the same shortcoming) use Thermistor Type 1. Also Jheads are usually not all metal and in the firmware set to a max temp somewhere between 240 and 260. If you go to a V6 you can up that temp a bit in the Firmware. But if you only print PLA/PETG you can drop it right in unless the thermistor type is different Now thermistor type 1 and 5 are similar but if you run a 5 with the 1 table you are going to run it about 20C cool and if you run a 1 with a 5 you are going to be about 20 C hot - so its manageable but if you were printing PLA at lets say 215 the new temp might be 20 C more or less to get the same results
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