@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
My Ultimaker S3 printer doesn't have soft PLA as a material selection. It would be nice to update the library. Is that possible? Otherwise, I need to learn how to successfully create a need entry. Can anyone help with that?
@damianoffthegrid I have an older model with a rambo mini board. But the board out to not be the difference.
Here is what I did. I slice in prusa slicer based on an MK2 profile. (I copied the start and end Gcode into PS). Then I save the Gcode file to disk. Then load the gcode file in MC and print. All MC does or used to do is to add the bed leveling to it that means change the Z positions where it is on the field. I was considering writing a script to post process in prusa slicer. But for now its sitting in pieces and I will make my mind what I do with it - it probably will become a very different printer as I was quite unhappy with a range of things. I should have bought 2 other printers for the price of one pulse. Currently I mostly print with Anycubic Chirons. One thing to watch out. IDK what the current version of MC does but some versions did not add the start/end code some did so double check if yo get double start and end code remove it in one of the 2 slicers so you only get it once. I also found that MC is leaking quite badly or at least used to so it pays to after every print - especially if it was a big one - to exit to the desktop and then restart the software.
That is a pretty old version - go to calibration I think its in the control section and under bed leveling there was an offset if you hover over it it say "thickness of paper" or something like that make sure that is 0 or real close to it and then level the bed. in this version the Z-offset works as intended so if you are too high you can put a negative number in the one under bed until you get it right but level first, Don;t upgrade until you fix that problem cause in current versions its even tougher to fix IMO. BTW I do not work for MH I am just an old dude with a Pulse (pun intended)
OTOH grab some PLA - MH Build PLA will work. Make sure the part is less than 50mm therabouts tall. Crank the bed up to > 80 (depending on size up to 95) use an enclosure (like the one you are selling) Make sure the print last > 2hours if not print a 2nd item or something else with it. when the print is done let it sit until the bed is completely cooled down. Now you have an at least partially annealed part. If you want to make double sure put it in a convection oven at about 150F for an hour and let it cool down after that. Now you got a PLA part that will beat ABS in heat resistance. But its still hard and brittle. Maybe slightly less brittle but still brittle like PLA is.
Have you checked the Baud Rate? It may need to connect at 115200 but the default is 250000.
That is the first place I would look.
If that doesn't work you should check and see if you can connect with just a terminal program.
Unfortunately, My knowledge on the Inkspire is quite limited but from what I have seen, it appears to be a capable printer. I have worked with Zortrax printers for the last few years in FDM and for the most part, I have never really had a bad experience. From some of my interactions with Inkspire customers of ours, it seems that it does take some getting used to but for the most part, it is a solid system backed up by a good slicer. The only downside I have seen voiced which is consistent is that the slicer is a bit slow.
Guess it would entirely depend on quite a few factors. Like how big are they? What kind of functionality are you looking for? What kind of Material etc. Its kinda if you say I got a lot of stuff to get from A to B what is the best vehicle. Could be a car, a van, a truck, a tanker if its liquid or maybe an airplane or a freight train
@dda1 said in Filament with continuous service temperature range: -68*C to 180*C and/ 15*C to 30*C.:
I'm currently looking for a filament that has a continuous service temperature range of -68C to 180C and/ 15C to 30C.
Please include sources with replies.
We print a lot of Nylon. What you need is a full metal hotend like an E3D V6 or a microswiss etc and preferably a garolite bed Thats pretty much all you will print around 250 to 280 and the bed needs to heat between 60 and 90 depending on the Nylon you print. If you have a .4 nozzle slow down to about <30 with a .8 to about < 20mm/sec. An enclosure helps with warping just like with ABS and HIPS etc if you print large prints.
I got mine last september. There is/was a learning curve. We put so far a little over 40kg of filament through that thing there were some problems mainly due to miscommunications as to the capabilities. Like from the literature at that time it was not clear that the temp max for the nozzle is about 280/285 for the E3D V6. True there are E3Ds that go to 400 but not this one. So that cost some thermistors. There was a wireing problem with the bed (the wire was not tied down properly in the electronics case so the movement of the bed back and forth caused arcing in the connector which damaged the connector.) But that all was fixed by MH (and I hope current models dont have that problem) there are some things I'd like to improve like the connection of the PTFE to the BodenTech extruder. The change I posted is right now in the 2nd kg of printing. The hotend/fan shroud could be better and some other things. But all in all we are currently putting 4-6kg of filament a week through that thing (with a .8 nozzle) printing mostly big frame parts. We (FRC team 1989) are trying to 3d print a whole 32x28x52 inch robot (not in one piece) including gear boxes, frame wheel mounts etc. We have developed planetary gear systems, rack and pinions, regular gears and are printing in Nylon (mostly Taulman as they partially sponsor us) HIPS (For frame parts and gear prototypes as its only $12/kg at Hobby King and way better than ABS) and PETG. Occasionally some PLA (working of getting the manufacturing process down to have it come at least semi annealerd from the printer and the finish anneal it with keeping the dimentional distortions within specs) . So all in all its working most of the time. And yes you will have to bed level once in a while especially when you change the bed temp quite a bit, The garolite bed we have holds on to anything so far (next test is going to be some flexibles and polypropylene and we got a roll of POM/Delrin donated). Well we learned how to take that thing apart if necessary and keep it running. So if you have any questions ask and just so you know I do not work for MH and don't get a cent if you buy here or not. I am just an Old Dude with a Pulse.
It looks like you may have already reached out to us on our support email but to touch base on what you have here. I would say that it is likely an incorrectly installed FEP sheet in the vat, we have noticed this out of the first batch and as we continue to record data on the Moai 200 we will send the information back to Peopoly for adjustments in their production. For now, I would say to disassemble the vat and clean out all the resin with water and alcohol, from there reassembling the vat with one of the replacement FEP sheets included in the accessories.
In the device manager of your computer, what exactly is being shown on COM Port 5? Does it show a printer or board version or is it just a COM connection?
Did you also set your Baud rate on the software to match that of the new board?
I do not follow, if you change the value this should adjust the starting point, there should be no resetting other than inputting alternative values.
You could reset using these functions if you needed to.
@livid said in Has my board died?:
physically broken. But d
While I am not too familiar with that printer I would say that it is possible that the touch screen could have the control board embedded directly and this might be the cause of your issues. I would check all connections on the printer control board and touch screen and from there see if you can get a replacement board.
It is possible that this is a grounding issue as some touch screens on printers have had the same issue's and I found more often that if the screen was not broken it was simply not grounding it's self.
Again, all shots in the dark here but maybe a good starting point.
I apologize for the delay here on the response, any chance you forgot to link the name of the board you are using to try and flash?
In my experience the flashing of a board from the Arduino software is fairly straight forward so it may just be a simple setting that has been missed.
We do have a helpful guide here if you would like a good starting point.
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