@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.
If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool
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Hi My Pulse XE S-232 (Smoothieware) shows a value on the LCD watch page of >>106%
I have not been able to find documentation anywhere that describes the LCD menu item functionality and the 106% value doesn't seem to match anything in my slice settings - Does anyone know what it is?
Also is there a .PDF that has all the documentation for Matterhacker Pulse printers in one place, or is it only available as disjointed random video's and online "guides?"
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
Have you checked the Baud Rate? It may need to connect at 115200 but the default is 250000.
That is the first place I would look.
If that doesn't work you should check and see if you can connect with just a terminal program.
Unfortunately, My knowledge on the Inkspire is quite limited but from what I have seen, it appears to be a capable printer. I have worked with Zortrax printers for the last few years in FDM and for the most part, I have never really had a bad experience. From some of my interactions with Inkspire customers of ours, it seems that it does take some getting used to but for the most part, it is a solid system backed up by a good slicer. The only downside I have seen voiced which is consistent is that the slicer is a bit slow.
Guess it would entirely depend on quite a few factors. Like how big are they? What kind of functionality are you looking for? What kind of Material etc. Its kinda if you say I got a lot of stuff to get from A to B what is the best vehicle. Could be a car, a van, a truck, a tanker if its liquid or maybe an airplane or a freight train
@dda1 said in Filament with continuous service temperature range: -68*C to 180*C and/ 15*C to 30*C.:
I'm currently looking for a filament that has a continuous service temperature range of -68C to 180C and/ 15C to 30C.
Please include sources with replies.
We print a lot of Nylon. What you need is a full metal hotend like an E3D V6 or a microswiss etc and preferably a garolite bed Thats pretty much all you will print around 250 to 280 and the bed needs to heat between 60 and 90 depending on the Nylon you print. If you have a .4 nozzle slow down to about <30 with a .8 to about < 20mm/sec. An enclosure helps with warping just like with ABS and HIPS etc if you print large prints.
I got mine last september. There is/was a learning curve. We put so far a little over 40kg of filament through that thing there were some problems mainly due to miscommunications as to the capabilities. Like from the literature at that time it was not clear that the temp max for the nozzle is about 280/285 for the E3D V6. True there are E3Ds that go to 400 but not this one. So that cost some thermistors. There was a wireing problem with the bed (the wire was not tied down properly in the electronics case so the movement of the bed back and forth caused arcing in the connector which damaged the connector.) But that all was fixed by MH (and I hope current models dont have that problem) there are some things I'd like to improve like the connection of the PTFE to the BodenTech extruder. The change I posted is right now in the 2nd kg of printing. The hotend/fan shroud could be better and some other things. But all in all we are currently putting 4-6kg of filament a week through that thing (with a .8 nozzle) printing mostly big frame parts. We (FRC team 1989) are trying to 3d print a whole 32x28x52 inch robot (not in one piece) including gear boxes, frame wheel mounts etc. We have developed planetary gear systems, rack and pinions, regular gears and are printing in Nylon (mostly Taulman as they partially sponsor us) HIPS (For frame parts and gear prototypes as its only $12/kg at Hobby King and way better than ABS) and PETG. Occasionally some PLA (working of getting the manufacturing process down to have it come at least semi annealerd from the printer and the finish anneal it with keeping the dimentional distortions within specs) . So all in all its working most of the time. And yes you will have to bed level once in a while especially when you change the bed temp quite a bit, The garolite bed we have holds on to anything so far (next test is going to be some flexibles and polypropylene and we got a roll of POM/Delrin donated). Well we learned how to take that thing apart if necessary and keep it running. So if you have any questions ask and just so you know I do not work for MH and don't get a cent if you buy here or not. I am just an Old Dude with a Pulse.
It looks like you may have already reached out to us on our support email but to touch base on what you have here. I would say that it is likely an incorrectly installed FEP sheet in the vat, we have noticed this out of the first batch and as we continue to record data on the Moai 200 we will send the information back to Peopoly for adjustments in their production. For now, I would say to disassemble the vat and clean out all the resin with water and alcohol, from there reassembling the vat with one of the replacement FEP sheets included in the accessories.
In the device manager of your computer, what exactly is being shown on COM Port 5? Does it show a printer or board version or is it just a COM connection?
Did you also set your Baud rate on the software to match that of the new board?
I do not follow, if you change the value this should adjust the starting point, there should be no resetting other than inputting alternative values.
You could reset using these functions if you needed to.
@livid said in Has my board died?:
physically broken. But d
While I am not too familiar with that printer I would say that it is possible that the touch screen could have the control board embedded directly and this might be the cause of your issues. I would check all connections on the printer control board and touch screen and from there see if you can get a replacement board.
It is possible that this is a grounding issue as some touch screens on printers have had the same issue's and I found more often that if the screen was not broken it was simply not grounding it's self.
Again, all shots in the dark here but maybe a good starting point.
I apologize for the delay here on the response, any chance you forgot to link the name of the board you are using to try and flash?
In my experience the flashing of a board from the Arduino software is fairly straight forward so it may just be a simple setting that has been missed.
We do have a helpful guide here if you would like a good starting point.
Thanks for posting, but I am not sure what the issue you have encountered is, maybe I am missing something but I need to know what the problem is exactly.
It also looks like you are using something other than Arduino for pushing the firmware, maybe try that and see how it goes?
At the moment as you have found, we do not have a profile for the Tornado. unfortunately I do not yet have a guide on setting up a profile for alternative machines but it is fairly simple when you look at it.
Essentially you need to set up a new printer with the Other/Other option and set the Baud rate in the slicer to be able to connect to the Tornado. From there it is all about configuring the printer in the slicer and running tests.
If you run into any problems you can ask me and I will answer them as best I can.
I wanted to kick in here and see if I could be of assistance. First off, @Framemanager, a few things with the first being, are you sure your Baud rate is actually set to match the printer. It looks like 25000 is the setting for the Mega. If this was not set correctly then you might not be able to send a command. To set it you can follow this gif!
From there you should be able to run the "Extrude command" from the extruder option at the top of the screen.
Let me know how that goes!
It is tough to say what the exact problem is going based off of one picture but I will give it a shot. The first question I have is, have you been watching to see what the printer is doing during the print? I know we can see the exact output of the printer but if you watch it, do you hear anything or seen anything out of place?
If you were to print a cube you would be able to measure out the exact X and Y dimensions which would help with finding the solution.
I have not cracked open a Finder in a good long while but I recall them having some couplers holding the X and Y axis rods on the motor shafts, these could be loose. So lets see what the Cube shows and from there we will know a bit more.
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