@bkfranklin22 Wow, sorry to hear about all the issues, especially with a new printer, mine is almost 18 months old and the majority of the issues have been "finger troubles" as I was green as grass when I started.
My run-out sensor was jammed with a stray chunk of filament that had broken off, easy fix. The probe was a intermittent wire in the harness for the probe. One issue with the motherboard that MH quickly replaced in the first month.
How does a ruby nozzle fail?
Not sure what I can suggest other then every mass produced things from cars to printers all have that "lemon" that wrecks it's reputation, they should just replace your printer (in my opinion).
@mark8967 I have had the best experience with keeping it at 100% and increasing the layer height for the first layer and reducing the Z offset and with that achieve pretty much the same. Remember all the printer does is move the head and spit out filament at a given rate so increase the layer height for the first layer means more filament , decrease the Z offset brings the nozzle closer to the build plate so the filament gets forced / squished more into the build plate
@rjderama https://pirringers.com/3dp/?p=21
If its on the bowden side. You can also use a zip tie of just the right size and pull the black thing up a bit.
@rjderama Glad you found a workaround. And with the filament feeding.... TPU is fiddly as it got about the consistency of a wet noodle. A lot in printing is still trial and error
Thanks for the insight. I figured it wasn't normal. I haven't tightened anything because I'm afraid I'm gonna mess things up. I think me being too careful has got me to the same spot!
I'll contact support to see what I can do
@okimitch Make sure the heater cartridge and thermistor are seated properly MH has a web page with pics and I think a video on how to assemble it properly. Also make sure there is no filament left inside like black stuff on the back of the nozzle or heatbreak if it is you will form a Puck sooner or later and have a jam
Just wonder if they still sell it with a 15A 12V powersupply - if they do either get a bigger one or don't run it 24/7 with the bed at 90-100 and the nozzle at 270-280 you will fry the powersupply. Make sure there is strain relief on the bed wires where it comes out of the case so it does not tug on th connectors or you will burn those up. And don't replace the V6 heater cartridge with a 40W one if you have a 15A PSU etc
I watched a few youtube videos, its really easy to do. Just heat up your bed and slowly try and get the garlite bed off. mine broke in a few chuncks. I then let the bed cool and cleaned up the glue with 99%IPA, then take your magnetic base and remove the backing and carfully place it on the bed. As for the flexplate make sure when you put the garlite or other bed top that its 100% bubble free. I thought I got all of the bubbles out but once I heated it up after a few prints I went to clean the bed and heard a pop! A bubble. Great! I had to order a new flexplate and garlite bed and I will make sure to put it on slower starting on one side and working my way to the other. The old one still works I just try not to print in that back area of the bed.
Hope this helps you out.
erie
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