Pulse

• 

  Hotend Mount warning/replacement
  • mpirringer

  4
  4
  Posts
  1364
  Views

  

  @fstkmaro Get a torque wrench and tighten about daily....
• P

  PET Issues
  • pverdin

  11
  11
  Posts
  3201
  Views

  

  @pverdin Exactly PETG sometimes does that. I had better results though with copper nozzles. Also use the torque wrench and check the nozzle once in a while as they do tend to come loose
• F

  General Printing with supports question
  • fstkmaro

  5
  5
  Posts
  1347
  Views

  F

  @mstange42 Thank you for the suggestions. This part was oddly shaped, this was the most optimal positioning to avoid supports in bores and things like that. I will play with the suggesting settings. Thank you again.
• M

  Thermistor and Fans!
  • Mikej480

  4
  4
  Posts
  1164
  Views

  M

  For my thermistor I have to replace mine about every 6 months along with my PTFE tube, about 1000 hours of printing give or take pending on material. For your hotend, make sure you are using the correct one (12 or 24 volt) as incorrect one would cause issues all around. As for the fan, it sounds like you have your setting way too low. Speed -> Fan -> Turn on if Below. Default is 60 seconds, but on different material it works better at a higher setting. Also check your Cooling settings and adjust as needed there to help.
• 

  Connector
  • mpirringer

  3
  3
  Posts
  876
  Views

  F

  @mpirringer thanks for posting that link. Good to know what could happen.
• S

  Pulse XE Hot End STL Files
  • SpaceGhost1911

  4
  4
  Posts
  1438
  Views

  P

  @spaceghost1911 This is the link I have for Github: https://github.com/MatterHackers/PulseOpenSource Hope this helps
• M

  squeaks
  • MehrensMFG

  3
  3
  Posts
  1062
  Views

  M

  thanks for your help on these topics, i went and picked up some 3in1 from harbor freight last night and that fixed it
• R

  Pulse comparison
  • Rsteel517

  6
  6
  Posts
  6015
  Views

  W

  I am from Los Angeles so buying the Pulse over the Prusa was a no brainer. The support of the experts at Matterhacker have been extremely awesome. I have 7 other 3D Printers, Dremel 3D20, 3D40, 3D45s. I like solidly made machines with the best support available. Bosch Dremel is one of the biggest companies in the world and they have the means to provide superb customer service, but the support of Matterhacker is just as good. The Dremels are solidly built and are pretty much fire and forget when it comes to PLA using Simplify3D. But I needed a machine that would print in NylonX and Kevlar. As far as printing goes, the Pulse XE is like the US version of the Prusa except it is really tailor-made for my favorite filament, NylonX. My Pulse XE prints almost round the clock for the past 3 months on nothing but the most abrasive NylonX and I have never had any problems except when I spilled coffee on the bed while it was printing. My only regret because of this is not buying the case for it. From my years of printing, calibrating printers is always a pain. My Pulse XE was ready for a fight right out of the box. I put it into production the moment I plugged it in. The details are superb and I rarely ever touch the pre=configured settings unless I need to add more perimeters or more infill. But most of the time, I just feed it filament and print directly from Matter Control.
• R

  How do NylonX prints on the Pulse compare to Markforged Onyx prints for aeshetics (its hard to beat Markforged for smooth finish), tensile and impact strength? Also, anybody compare Nylon X prints on Pulse XE to Prusia's Mark3s?
  • robklein

  1
  1
  Posts
  870
  Views

  No one has replied

• 

  This topic is deleted!
  • lado

  1
  1
  Posts
  6
  Views

  No one has replied

• E

  Pulse xe belt tension
  • erievon

  3
  3
  Posts
  1525
  Views

  E

  Thank you
• M

  Matterhackers Pulse and Mosaic Palette 2 Questions
  • mberendsen

  3
  3
  Posts
  1362
  Views

  Z

  This is related to getting the z offset in the firmware for the pulse and this is now under review to add the z offset I was told. still in testing.
• R

  pulse xe thermistor
  • RedbeardRon

  6
  6
  Posts
  2010
  Views

  

  Its most likely the wiring. Mine came without strain relief and wired in a way that the back and forth movement of the bed wiggled the connector and caused arcing and also eventually broke some wires So check for that with a meter
• E

  White PRO PLA
  • erievon

  4
  4
  Posts
  1401
  Views

  

  In this instance, it looks like you may want to check your cooling fan. Making sure that it is on 100%for PLA.
• E

  Boden tube pops out with new filament
  • erievon

  3
  3
  Posts
  1282
  Views

  

  It used to always pop out not any more since I put this on Its been solid for months now. I published it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3869433
• 

  Printing temp which one is wrong...
  • mpirringer

  7
  7
  Posts
  2081
  Views

  

  Can't really help with other brands, I find the one available that works for me and stick with it. Not one for experimenting.
• 

  Upgrading the Pulse
  • mpirringer

  4
  4
  Posts
  1438
  Views

  

  When I upgraded the bed from 200 X 200 to 315 X 315, using the 12v supply it took 12-15 minutes to heat to 60c. By upgrading to another 24v supply It now takes 4-5 mins to heat to 80c. Not sure but I think the bed is rated to 110c.
• N

  New Pulse XE Owner having some quality issues.
  • nickpeck43

  11
  11
  Posts
  3744
  Views

  N

  Thanks, I'll check that out! Yah I got this printer mostly for those types of filaments so that way I didn't have to mess with changing things out on my other printers to do it. Just trying to get it dialed in a bit tighter but I suppose I should be using the filament I got it for lol. Using some Ryno and Nylon X so far, as well as testing with some PLA. I just need to figure this thing out and get it adjusted accordingly, it's close, but I'm need to do some more work Thanks again for the replies, I'll check it all out.
• E

  Bed Temps Swings
  • erievon

  5
  5
  Posts
  1713
  Views

  

  Check the connector on the Rambo mini board. I had the same thing. Mine came with the bed wire just hanging out of the box without strain relief now your bed keeps going back and forth and with that wiggles the connector which starts arcing and destroys the connector on the board. Pull the connector off if the one on the board is cracked or discolorated or shows other signs of arcing than this is the problem. Also watch the led - if you set the temp for lets say 80 and it say less than 76 and the light is not solid but off or blinking then you have temporarily no connection of power to the bed. also check the power at the bed. when you are heating. Set it to 80 and put a meter at the bed while its heating up it should get close to 12 Volts. If it does not check the voltage at the power imput plug if its low there too then its cause the PS cannot keep up. the Rambo mini instructions states a PS of >16 amps and the Pulse supply is 15A so if you heat both the hotend and Bed you run the PS at 100% and over so that is not too good if you want it to last. If there is no strain relief and the connectors are still fine - put some strain relief there. The PS should be at 12V or slightly above all the time. If you have the PS with the Din type plut then each pin is rated at 7.5 A max and the bed draws more than that.
• P

  Saving settings by Filament
  • pverdin

  3
  3
  Posts
  1208
  Views

  P

  Thanks Erik, Add it to the wish list of the programmers I suspected I would have to re-calibrate but always looking for a shortcut.