Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.



  • Hi I have no warping on my other parts that have printed good previously with nylonX. They measure exactly as the computer model up and down. I had bad warping on nylon but this is nlyon X. I have a heated enclosure at 40C. The parts that print good fit exactly into other parts. I am really blown away by the perfect fits of my parts.Extremly happy with the good prints, better than expected. I just do not know why I am starting to get these layer off almost every other print which I didn't get before. But maybe its the models. I am washing the bed every time and re-calibrating the bed every time also. well, I will keep trying. Thanks for your effort to help me! 🙂



  • If your shifts are at random layers, they may be caused by stepper motors missing a step. This can be caused by dirty or inadequate power supply or resonance issues. All it takes is for a low true step pulse to be inverted and voila - you have a missed step.

    Maybe clumps of filament build up on the hot end that eventually extend below the bottom of the nozzle - When they strike the previous layer, you lose a step and the clump gets knocked off leaving no evidence.

    I briefly had this issue when I tried to print my first PLA part - Changed from Nylon X to PLA and could not get a decent print from PLA to save my butt - I think in that case it was my .12 layer height that caused the issue - I went back to Nylon X without really solving the issue. I'll get back to it when I get some time.

    Good luck!



  • @thwclw Sometimes on parts a corner curls up and then the nozzle hits it and yoy get a shift.



  • @mpirringer Didn't think of that! I haven't had any curling issues so far (I guess I've been lucky)



  • @mpirringer Looks like there is some curling below the support (support taken away already) on the top left something sticking out



  • @surfmagic That can cause your layer shifts. It sometimes happens with certain materials if the overhang is too big or there are too many perimeters. Its a sign of uneven cooling. If you have the fan on try it with the fan off if the fan is already off the only things that help then is either up the chamber/ ambient temp if you can or use a different material or reduce the amount of material by reducing infill and perimters which will give you a weaker part. Or go to a differnet brand or material



  • @mpirringer The support recommended my take take away the heating chamber, they said the heating chamber may cause offset. I do not understand this.



  • @surfmagic Usually a printing chamber helps but NylonX is their filament so if anyone knows they should - hopefully. Even though I have stopped calling them ....



  • @surfmagic I think you got that reply because of the concern that the stepper motor driver chips may overheat in a heated chamber. All you have to do is get rid of your heated enclosure, buy a nice 36" 1 HP fan from harbor freight and aim at your controller and you'll be fine.



  • @thwclw If the electronics box is inside the enclosure that is bad. I put mine outside when I was using it and put a fan on the board because the D model did not have a fan blowing on the board which was quite ridicolous IMO



  • @mpirringer No fan on the S model (32 bit Azteeg X5 GT) either. The control board will be in the enclosure unless it's removed from the frame and taken out. I was going to put a fan on the control board box, but it would just be recirculating hot air from inside the chamber. Ductwork might help a little, but who knows. Probably better to remove it from the environment,

    I have just been leaving the enclosure panels open until I decide if I want to do anything about it.

    I haven't had too many problems that could be pinned on that issue, but I'm in Naples FL, just north of the everglades and summer is just around the corner so it might become an issue.



  • @thwclw Put a fan on anyway. Most commercial chips are good to 80 C and many above that so I doubt you exceed 50 in the chamber so even blowing 50 C air on an 80C chip is cooling. And you got mosfets etc in there that produce quite a bit of heat. any board that drives a 30+W hotend and a bed needs a fan.



  • @mpirringer I had a temperature meter inside and it never got hotter than 40C.



  • @mpirringer Thanks, I have a fan I can use so why not!



  • @surfmagic The temp inside the enclosure does not matter what matters is the temp of each chip like for example the temp in the enclosure can be 40 but the bed might be 100 so a particular chip or mosfet could be well above its rated temp. So you can easily see that on the board if you take a pic with a thermal camera or just put your finger on different parts of the board and you will feel a definite temp difference



  • @thwclw no fan on e model either, with same board ( gt ). Not enough fan slots? My ender came with a board fan ffs



  • @mpirringer that must be incorrect thinking, or else they would have taken the 5 dollar hit from the over 300% profit being made to put a fan to cool it.
    Sarcasm of course.
    Just sour



  • @surfmagic said in Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.:

    Hi I have no warping on my other parts that have printed good previously with nylonX. They measure exactly as the computer model up and down. I had bad warping on nylon but this is nlyon X. I have a heated enclosure at 40C. The parts that print good fit exactly into other parts. I am really blown away by the perfect fits of my parts.Extremly happy with the good prints, better than expected. I just do not know why I am starting to get these layer off almost every other print which I didn't get before. But maybe its the models. I am washing the bed every time and re-calibrating the bed every time also. well, I will keep trying. Thanks for your effort to help me! 🙂

    I was getting the same problem. I ended up getting it narrowed down to- incorrect z offset / initial layer too low- causing the sides of each line to spiil over and eventually build up
    With a bit of warping from fan settings or lack thereof that the nozzle would eventually hit and miss a step.
    Also z hop plus getting a more desired initial layer. Couldve been the loose heaterblock it came with. Or z axis out of sync , idk. All of them ? None of them? Your guess is as good as mine. Too bad these "prusa clones" would only qualify to as prusa's second cousin.
    Boy am i salty
    450 dollar azteeg x5 gt when they are less than 150, dont start comparing the rest of the parts , or youll be salty af too.
    My pulse is destined to be scrapped toward a voron switchfire . Not because im some goober with no brain. The parts are coming out more often than not pretty well. They fit, and are functional- mil spec. But i get closer to the edge everytime i inspect further


  • MatterHackers

    @rbradford1111 I removed one sentence from your comment. You're free to criticize and complain on the forum, but you don't need to use offensive language to do so.

    Sorry you're upset with the printer. I'm happy to help with any specific issue.

    As for the fan "issue", the Azteeg board and the BSD drivers are rated for well above what they are running at. Active cooling is simply not necessary - even in a passively heated enclosure. The Prusa, which you are fond of, doesn't have a case fan and the Einsy Rambo 2130 drivers run significantly hotter than the Azteeg with 2660 drivers. Further, there are giant heat sinks on the 2660 drivers - and no heat sinks on the 2130 drivers.

    I'm really not sure why this is a problem. If you have evidence of heat causing issues with the electronics, please let us know and we'll take a look immediately. Life is hard enough as it is, though, so there's no need to create problems that don't exist.

    If you want to add a fan, go for it. There are a few 5v options, as well as 24v options. I responded to one of your other threads with more information about that.



  • @rbradford1111 Thanks I will try not too low initial layer


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