Have you tried cleaning with 91% isopropyl alcohol? I haven't heard of anyone with this issue, but we haven't tried using Mean Green cleaner with it. I suspect that it's not an appropriate solvent for the resin and is only washing away part of the uncured resin. The remaining part is not able to cure in UV, leaving you with the tacky feeling.
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RE: Matterhackers Build Series Resin prints tacky after cleaning and curing No matter what.
RE: Artillery Sidewinder X1 Support
I recently put together a simple guide on setting up a new printer in MatterControl 2.0, you can find it here: https://help.matterhackers.com/article/193-setting-up-3rd-party-printers
@mpirringer we still do give credit for sending in profiles for printers as well as valid site corrections. Do you mind emailing us a response on the chain where you had submitted it? We are happy to implement new profiles and would like to encourage the continued contribution. I looked through a few of our more recent communications and did not see a conversation with a profile mentioned.
RE: Ryno factory spooling issue
It's literally not possible to have it knotted on the spool like this off the extrusion line. The filament is a continuous piece and is continuously wound on the spool. There's no way it can loop under or around itself.
You can test this theory by holding a length of filament with both hands. Without letting go of either end of the filament, try to tie a knot.
This occurs when loops of filament get loose and are allowed to cross each other - almost always on new spools when the windings are close to the edge of the spool.
When you get new filament, be careful not to allow the slack out of the spool. Hold the end of the filament and feed it into your extruder as soon as you release it from the new spool and you shouldn't see this happen again.
RE: Want to buy Pulse XE, Can this object be made strong?
I don't think you'll be able to to this with any 3D printed plastic. The failure mode would almost certainly be the layers separating - which isn't due to the material failing, but rather the process limitations.
Interlayer adhesion on 3D printed parts isn't something that has an ISO or ASTM test standard, so there isn't data we can point to and say definitively that something will or won't work.
The one option that would almost certainly work would be Ultrafuse 316LX, which is 316 stainless steel that you can print on most printers, and then send off to to debinding and sintering. The part you get back is virtually solid stainless steel.
RE: Error:MINTEMP triggered
It sounds like your thermistor may be going out / bad.
Using a multimeter, set it to 100K Ohms and probe the thermistor at room temp.
The thermistor should read ~100K +/-20 ish.
If it is extremely high or low, you may need to replace the thermistor itself.