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  • RE: Remote monitoring Pulse XE

    What @mpirringer is doing with TeamViewer and a camera is the same setup that I have at home. Controlling the computer from my phone also allows me to queue up long slices for the larger machines as well. I prefer Teamviewer because of it being free and mostly reliable.

    Now to get it on the tablet for easier control and vision...

    posted in 3D Printers
  • RE: T10 not charging.

    Hi, @mindphunk!
    So sorry for the delay in getting back to you!
    Is the unit itself not charging/ does not power on or does the unit just not show a bettery indication with a higher charge level?
    If that is the case-
    The reality is that the tablet is a bit "hacked" together, and that the charging functionality about which you're concerned is actually functioning normally. The battery indicator does not function properly, but this does not mean that the tablet is not actually charging.

    I realize this isn't the greatest presentation of a product. Still, our company name implies a willingness to hack things together to make them work, and as far as we're concerned, it works, albeit not as expected.

    If you did want to reinstall the software on the tablet, I have included the instructions below:

    1. Swipe down from the top right of the screen twice, which will bring up a menu. Select 'Settings' then navigate to Backup and reset > Factory data reset > Reset tablet > Erase everything.
    2. The tablet will reset; wait for Android to start up again.
    3. Proceed through the Welcome wizard: set up wifi, sign into Google, etc.
    4. When you are prompted with 'Select a home app', click the entry for 'Launcher' > Just once.
    5. Click OK at the bottom right to dismiss the 'Make yourself at home' screen overlay.
    6. Find the APK download links at the bottom of this email. Use the Browser app (globe icon on the home screen) to access this email from your email client (e.g. Gmail) and proceed.
    7. Download the APK(s)
    8. Swipe down from the top of the screen to pull up the context menu as you did in step 1, and navigate to the SETTINGS app. Change the following settings:
      Display -> Set 'Sleep' to Never
      Security -> Set Screen lock to 'None', make sure 'Unknown Sources' is checked, and 'Verify apps' is unchecked
      Developer Options -> Make sure 'Stay Awake' is checked
    9. Press the home button (bottom center, shaped like a house), click the entry for 'Launcher' > Just once, and navigate to the 'File manager' app (manila file folder), found in the app selector screen.
    10. Navigate to '0 > Download' and open each APK file to install both the launcher and the app. Click 'Done' when each is installed; DON'T click 'Open'.
    11. When both apps are installed, press the home button again (bottom center, shaped like a house), but this time choose the blue 'Launcher' (with T10 at the top right), NOT the MatterControlLauncher, and select 'Always'
    12. Do not click the UPDATE link until you've launched MatterControl, which you do by pressing the PRINT button.

    From there, all should be well, and you should be able to use the app as expected. If not, let me know and we'll go from there.


    posted in MatterControl Touch
  • RE: Pulse xe belt tension

    There is no specific belt tension for the Pulse line of printers on the Y or X-axis. Typically we adjust them until the belts can be pinched together with a slight bit of force. Push the print head all the way to the left and adjust the tension until the two sides of the belt can be pushed together with only a slight bit of resistance.

    posted in Pulse
  • RE: FlexForge Dreamer - Wifi

    MatterControl is not able to connect to machines wirelessly.

    posted in MatterControl
  • RE: PLA Issues

    @pverdin said in PLA Issues:

    while but back at it and decided to take MH Builder's PLA for a spin and having issues getting a clean space guy. I have tweaked my "Z" so I have good adhesion to my Buildtak surface, using default settings from MH for the flow etc.
    Three attempts after printing a clean "cube" test, the one on the left is 200 deg, middle is 205 deg and the right is 210 deg hot end temp settings. Cooling fan is running 100%

    This definitely looks to be a cooling issue. I agree with Martin though, does this happen with every material? Do you see both fans spin when the part is printing?

    posted in Pulse
  • RE: Gaps Between lines in one direction on small frame structure

    @evoletindia We would be happy to help you out!

    Please reach out to us either by phone or

    posted in General 3D Printing
  • RE: Installing SL .25 Micro to TAZ 6

    This one is strange, I cannot say I have seen this one before in particular.
    In this case, please reach out to us at and we would be happy to do some digging.

    posted in LulzBot TAZ & Mini
  • RE: Solex Ruby nozzle

    Looking at the photo, it definitely looks to be related to your cooling. Does this happen with every material or just PETG?

    posted in Raise3D
  • RE: Connecting Mattercontrol to DUET based printer over wifi

    MatterControl is not able to connect to machines over Wifi, it will need to be hardwired.

    posted in General 3D Printing
  • RE: Curious about Heat-Welding CF-RN

    I am not sure that you can heat weld Nylon due to its higher thermal threshold. It may be that you end up gluing the pieces together with adhesives. I would use something like a 2 part epoxy rather than Gorilla Glue or super glue.

    My only question is why CF-PA? I have build a few dozen cosplay models and I have only ever needed ABS or PLA. I tend to use ABS because I can bond the parts fully with a bit of MEK or Acetone (depending on which I have on hand at that moment). Those parts are plenty strong enough, hell, even the armor feels heavy like it should.

    The only reason I could see the use of CF-PA is the idea that the part will be stronger, which it will be. But unless you are going to be taking a hit to the face while wearing it, I do not believe it is necessary. The cost savings on material alone is a good reason to stick with ABS or PLA.

    My apologies for being direct on this one, I see this question come up every so often and I try to use my experience to give a good perspective on the core question. To be fair, I thought the same thing when CF-PA started to come out but after getting my first few models printed, painted, and displayed I did not see the need for it.

    posted in General 3D Printing

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