This might seem a bit complicated but it will accomplish what you are asking.
Add your part to the bed
Add a measure tools to the bed (the yellow arrows in the tool bar)
Measure the inside of your part that you want to change
Group the measure tool and your part together
Right click and add a Modify -> Transform -> Scale to the group
Switch to Percentage
Turn off Lock Proportions
Adjust the Width and Depth by the same percentage to get the size you want
The size will show on the measure tools
All this will be easier in the future. The measure tool will automatically stay with your part and the scale tool is going to get a lock proportions for xy (as this questions shows the need).
If you submit an issue to support with the profile and the things you are trying to print, we'll be happy to look into it.
Here is how to export the profile.
And the best way to share the print is to save it to your cloud library and then send a share code in the support ticket.
You can also add all the same stuff to GitHub if that is easier for you.
Insert a cylinder
Right click it
Select Convert to Wipe Tower
With this method you can define both the shape and the position of the wipe tower. The tower will stop printing as soon as no more transition are required and the top of the shape will continue to be projected up as long as there is a need for more tower (even if the original shape is short).
Hope that helps
It's possible you have some bad mesh. Also, it definitely should show up in the slice image. If you've confirmed your settings and it's not showing up on the slice preview, please email us - email@example.com - and attach the STL.
Check your resume after pause gcode snippet. I also have found that its better to manually insert the filament when changing and put a piece of paper on your print and have a brass bristle brush handy to clean the nozzle before hitting resume
@jflyden Seems that way in regards to mesh bed leveling. As for jagged curves.... Sorry I never experienced that except with a very low resolution stl. All my settings in PS are custom though that means I started in "expert" mode with setting up a custom printer and taking it from there. I don't want to make any claims on current versions of the pulse as mine is/was a C version and IDK what they have done since. I originally paid the extra $$$ for the pulse to have something that was "good to go" out of the box and in hindsight that was a mistake as any subsequent printer I got that cost less than 1/2 of the pulse had way less problems than the pulse so I stopped following what exactly they did - plus there never was a "Here is how you turn your C model into a D or whatever other letter they are up to." Right now my pulse is apart and is waiting for me to have nothing better to do than turn it into a properly functioning printer. There were serious problems with the C model that prevented it to do what I bought it for mainly to print at higher temperatures for extended periods of time. For that for starters the PSU was grossly underpowered so the Pulse became parts when the PSU had a "melt down" for the 2nd time after the warranty expired. The stock hotend mounts were RYNO and they melted down and deformed when you printed at 280ish nozzle and 100 bed and printed a bigger part. The fan part cooling was a problem as if you had a bridge close to the bed and the fan turned on with bed at 100 nozzle 260 like when printing ABS or HIPS you caused a thermal runaway way too often as you could not maintain temp. Going to a 40 watt heater at the hotend pushed the PSU over its 15 amp limit. (it says in the mini rambo board manual PSU 16A absolute minimum) then there were wiring problems that caused arcing and there was no fan on the board so if you made an enclosure it overheated (I took that off when I saw the temp on the board climbing. So IOW there was no way to consistantly print for longer periods of time as advertised. OTOH I have an Anycubic Chiron sitting right next to me that I bought sub $500 and all I did replaced the hotend with a Volcano and also easily upgraded some wiring (longer drag chain and high flex silicon wire) and its been working like a beast keeping the bed at 105 to 110 with no thermal runaways, ABS, NYLON, PETG, HIPS all stick extremely well and no thermal runaways when the fan turns on and yes I have some blemishes on the build plate after running 150kg of mostly ABS/HIPS at 260/105 and about 20 kg of Nylon through it - mostly 910. So about a little over a year ago when the pulse died it was either fixing it or buying another printer so we got another Chiron and that performs just as well. We also got a Mega-X and a predator and they are doing well too . Predator is currently getting a mosquito clone as I want to try that one. Sorry for the rant - Start with a clean setup in PS. All the stuff we print is done in PS and yeah currently not printed on a pulse
And oh yeah for the Pulse when I get to it the plan is and enclosure with the electronics outside, a 360 watt PSU at 24 volts and the wiring redone and probably if the tests on the other chiron work out fine a direct drive with an orbiter and a mosquito and a properly designed mount/cooling system. And I am playing with the idea of turning it into a core xy.
Are you struggling to find a setting? There are a few different view options in 2.0 that you may not be aware of.
Simple, Intermediate, and Advanced
Happy to help you understand the UI if that's the main issue. By staying on 1.7 you're missing out on a lot of really great new features.