Hotend mount reprint
Here are pics of the new mount that came with the new hot end I ordered. I have not broken the leg of the sensor...yet even in my last melt down.
I have been very happy with this printer but then I am not doing the volume of work you are. However nylon is a different story and a different post.
Looking at the files, it seems to be a "D" frame Groove mount. It is holding up nicely but now I can print a spare assembly before I mess it up again
@pverdin You are missing the retaining piece for the mount. It goes over the top of the heat sink and holds it in place with 2 screws.
It's part 512 - Groove Heat Sink Lock_A
You'll definitely want to print and install that.
pverdin last edited by pverdin
@cope413 Interesting, all I had were the pieces supplied by MH. I will get on that. Looking at the part, where does it go?
@pverdin That's our mistake then. We can send it out if needed. Please let us know.
@cope413 I can print it but thanks for the offer.
robtx last edited by
Here is where the replacement pin is sold for BL Touch
mpirringer last edited by
Thanks Good to have
@pverdin I have printed out the lock and installed and noticed where the current mount is melting, but the lock plate has made a world of difference in the prints. Printed a new mount from NylonG and will install soon,.
One issue I continue to struggle with is the prints curve up at the corners from the garolite/glue 70 degree heat. Some more than others, I have leveled bed and re-calibrated the Z offset. Unit is in an enclosure and filament is in the dryer. Not sure what more to do.
Nylon G - 260 degrees.
Garolite bed - 70 degrees.
![0_1562709147363_Back plate.png](Uploading 100%)
Not sure if you can see the curve in the "spine" or not.
mpirringer last edited by
Have not done Nylong but sometimes that happens to me with other Nylons so...
1.) I print most Nylons with bed at least 80
2.) Big Brim
3.) Up the extrusion on the 1st layer
4.) Decrease the Z offset to press the first layer harder into the bed but not so hard that the extruder skips. If you just print one layer the sheet should not come apart at the layer lines.
I slice with SLIC3R and when I print with a .4 with .2 layer height I print the first layer at .52 and .96 layer width and turn the Z down at least .2 and that works most of the time. Also its summer and it might be humid so dry out some dessecant packets in the oven and 250-275 for 2 hours and throw them into the print dry so you are not blowing hot wet air around the filament.
Also would be interesting how the Gecko sheets work with Nylon Tried to ask a question here in another thread about that but no answer....