NylonX Warping

  • The NylonX product is spectacular! I love how tough it is and the finish is great. The only problem is that I'm having a hard time overcoming warping - I presume due to differential thermal contraction.

    My printer is the Prusa3D MkIII and I have upgraded to a hardened steel nozzle. To get good layer adhesion I'm using 265C for the extruder temperature and I use a default option of 90C for the bed temperature.

    Printed parts tend to "cup" up at the edges - which I can fix while printing by adding a brim to hold them down - but after I remove prints from the bed, they really bend, yielding a convex bottom surface in thick items and a wobbly looking parabaloid shape for thin, flat items (like boxes/enclosures).

    Any ideas on how to minimize the warp?

  • MatterHackers

    Hey @DougBailey ,

    As you mentioned, this issue occurs after the print has been removed from the print bed. This would point us to the part and settings.

    The first thing I would ask, is what is your infill percentage and top/bottom layer count. These will have the most affect to the post printing.

    You can always drop us some pictures in our email at support@matterhackers.com and we can take a look there as well.


  • I have had this same issue, it only happens when I am print a large object like an AR15 Lower receiver. I adjust my heated bed temp down to 55C and that helped. i typically use 50% infill but i adjust wall/top/bottom thickness so it will have 5/10 layers and then infill when the volume of a given area is large. But i still get some warping, when i use standard supports, the print seems to seperate, tree seems to hold better.

  • IDK what you consider large part But here is how I print most Nylons successfully should be true for NylonX too as the warping is caused by the Nylon My go to Nylons are Taulman 910 and Hobby King CX12.

    1.) I got the Bed at 85
    2.) I use gluestick on top of it
    3.) I print directly from the print dry
    4.) I got a sheet of plastic draped over both the print dry (homemmade food dehydrator conversion) and the printer
    5.) I don't take the part of the build plate until it cools down
    As for size
    alt text
    The ringgear/hub is about 130mm in diameter the gears are about 30ish mm in diameter. the bearings are 608s Its all taulman 910 and printed solid with a .8mm nozzle. .8 outside perimeters 1.4mm inside perimeters 7 perimeters (less on the smaller gears) The tire of course is TPU as that gives better grip and more flex as you want in a tire. The layer height is .32
    alt text
    Thats it running in an ABS holder Which on the OD is an 8 inch hexagon

  • @dougbailey stop overpaying for half a kg , priline carbon fiber polycarbonate will make you hate nylonx.
    But also 265 is a little hot? Ive always been at 255

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