DougBailey last edited by
The NylonX product is spectacular! I love how tough it is and the finish is great. The only problem is that I'm having a hard time overcoming warping - I presume due to differential thermal contraction.
My printer is the Prusa3D MkIII and I have upgraded to a hardened steel nozzle. To get good layer adhesion I'm using 265C for the extruder temperature and I use a default option of 90C for the bed temperature.
Printed parts tend to "cup" up at the edges - which I can fix while printing by adding a brim to hold them down - but after I remove prints from the bed, they really bend, yielding a convex bottom surface in thick items and a wobbly looking parabaloid shape for thin, flat items (like boxes/enclosures).
Any ideas on how to minimize the warp?
Hey @DougBailey ,
As you mentioned, this issue occurs after the print has been removed from the print bed. This would point us to the part and settings.
The first thing I would ask, is what is your infill percentage and top/bottom layer count. These will have the most affect to the post printing.
You can always drop us some pictures in our email at firstname.lastname@example.org and we can take a look there as well.
brainmicrowave last edited by
I have had this same issue, it only happens when I am print a large object like an AR15 Lower receiver. I adjust my heated bed temp down to 55C and that helped. i typically use 50% infill but i adjust wall/top/bottom thickness so it will have 5/10 layers and then infill when the volume of a given area is large. But i still get some warping, when i use standard supports, the print seems to seperate, tree seems to hold better.
mpirringer last edited by mpirringer
IDK what you consider large part But here is how I print most Nylons successfully should be true for NylonX too as the warping is caused by the Nylon My go to Nylons are Taulman 910 and Hobby King CX12.
1.) I got the Bed at 85
2.) I use gluestick on top of it
3.) I print directly from the print dry
4.) I got a sheet of plastic draped over both the print dry (homemmade food dehydrator conversion) and the printer
5.) I don't take the part of the build plate until it cools down
As for size
The ringgear/hub is about 130mm in diameter the gears are about 30ish mm in diameter. the bearings are 608s Its all taulman 910 and printed solid with a .8mm nozzle. .8 outside perimeters 1.4mm inside perimeters 7 perimeters (less on the smaller gears) The tire of course is TPU as that gives better grip and more flex as you want in a tire. The layer height is .32
Thats it running in an ABS holder Which on the OD is an 8 inch hexagon