Help dialing in NylonX settings.
drift last edited by
I just started experimenting with NylonX, and so far it seems great, however I am having a small issue and wondered if anyone with NylonX experience could help me out. I printed a grip for use in airsoft and the main body of the grip is very solid, but there are some small lugs on the top that snapped off with very light finger pressure.
The part on the right is the NylonX grip that the lugs broke off of, the part I'm holding on the left is a PLA test piece for the lugs.
These lugs all seem like they did not stick at all, but the rest of the grip is very solid and unbreakable. These same lugs printed on the PLA piece are much stronger.
I was thinking maybe this could be due to the fact that I am not using an enclosure, do you guys agree or is it a settings problem?
Print Speed: 50
layer height: 0.2
wall thickness: 0.8
Retraction distance: 6.5
No cooling Fan
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
mpirringer last edited by
I have not done NylonX but plenty of Nylons. And there are probably a couple of things you can do.
1.) In my experience 50mm/sec is a bit fast for any Nylon So I'd slow the speed down.
2.) Wall thickness .8 that with a .4 nozzle is 2 perimeters I'd up that a bit
3.) The Nobs might have gotten "cooked" as they are small and are sticking up so unless you print multiple items at the same time the hotend might come back before the previous layer had a chance to cool down a little. So you could try to print more than one or increase the minimum layer time
4.) your might have to up the temp a bit. Just cause your printer says its 260 does not necessarily mean it is. Printers can under/over report by as much as 10%
Don't do all those changes at once pick one at a time. Maybe design a test print to test your layer adhesion.
A note on particle (Carbon, Glass, wood etc) filled filaments. They are all weaker in tensile strength and layer adhesion than the base material. CF fill gives you greater stiffness and hardness and abrasion resistance at the cost of layer adhesion and tensile strength. This is due to the fact that you do not have continuous fiber but little chopped pieces in the filament so there is less filament to hold things together as the CF particles do not interlock and if there are particles at the surface where the layers contact then at that microscopic small point is no adhesion.
Also I hope you are using a hardened steel or ruby nozzle otherwise that little part is enough to destroy your nozzle in which case you might have under extrusion as by the time you got to those little nobs the orifice of your nozzle might be .5 or .6 or even more and definitely not .4 anymore.
Unless you need the extra stiffness or abrasion resistance a regular Nylon like 910 - which is a hard nylon - is a much better choice for most applications.
drift last edited by
Thank you for responding. I am using a hardened nozzle. i will print a few more, trying your suggestions one at a time.
boardsec last edited by
erievon last edited by
I have a Pulse XE and print at 265 hotend and 60 bed but I have a garlite bed. I print at .1 layer height, 3 perimeters and 25% infill you don't need more than that and print speeds at 30. My prints are very clean and show no layer lines. I use the NylonX to print mounts for commercial drones which hold Lidar scanners, and other high end sensors and never had one break. They have to resist vibration and breaking as some of the units being held are over 80K. Not sure how your printer would compare to the Pulse XE but I have yet to have a issue. I have been printing 24/7 for 3 years on it.
MDVolle last edited by
I know this is an old thread - but I'll add my two bits -
The CF loaded filament definitely eats a brass nozzle as you watch
The "Hardened" nozzles sold as "plated", "coated" etc, are only a little slower to go
The actual tool steel nozzles fare better but still wear
The Ruby nozzles - you will finish your part with the same diameter you started - I've given up on any other nozzle for filled materials.
I spent a lot of time checking nozzles pre/post printing using a machinist's microscope - measuring to .001 mm and it became really obvious that you need something as hard as ruby or you will chase lots of odd things along the way - they don't even stay round...
In the course of your part, you probably went from at size to something larger as you printed - even if you over extrude a little at the bottom, by the time you get to the top, you will be under extruding (at least on tall parts) That plus the temp/enclosure/conditions pieces can add up to some really odd experiences.
I had one large part (pre ruby nozzles) where I had to keep manually "tuning" the extrusion rate up a percent at a time as the nozzle wore - it was a very long 26 hours....