help! what filament should I use?

  • Hello
    Recently a friend told me that his car has this problem, a T shape hose has a little fissures from where water is leaking. So he asked me if I could do something about it. Where I am at, the dealership doesn't have the spare part so He have to import it and probably will cost a lot.


    So I was thinking to 3d print it but I am not sure what material should I use. The temperature of the water passing through this part goes around 20 ° C to ~100 ° C.

    Currently I only have PLA but I could buy another filament of different material.

    I have a Anycubic Printer that can go:
    Max extruder temperature: 527 ° F / 275 ° C
    Max heated bed temperature: 212 ° F / 100 ° C

    Because I am still new to this world of 3d Print, I would like to know your suggestions for printing this part.
    should I even try to print it? or I tell my frind to just import it?


  • Boiling water (100C) will even soften HIPS or ABS. Nylon might be a good choice. As this is a simple part you could try annealed PLA even though idk how much vibration and pressure you get. Nylon - probably Taulman 910 as its harder or Hobby King CX12 which is pretty hard too would be my first choice though

  • MatterHackers

    I do not agree entirely with @mpirringer here. The reality is even a Nylon would not be good enough for something like this and the temperatures that can be reached in an engine bay. As I am sure you know, Engine bays can get to an excess of 280-300F
    The material that comes to mind for something like this is Ultem material. Which, is not something that your machine can print and requires a highly specialized machine. Ultem material is actually designed for the automotive category and designed to be sufficient for high-temperature applications.
    ABS or Nylon would likely not withstand these temperatures.

    You can take a look at Ultem below:

  • I kinda agree with you on that even though it might be borderline. I have tested Bridge, 910, CX12 in a toaster oven. Bridge started to loose mechanical integrity at about 300. CX12 and 910 survived up to about 375. The test was to heat a 50x50 tube that was 100 long printed with a 4mm wall a .8 nozzle 1mm layer width .4 layer height governed at 8mm3/sec. A tube was placed on a solid surface and hit with a hammer after printing and they did not deform and then they were heated for over and hour starting at 250 and then quickly taken out of the oven and hit with the hammer. as I said at about 300 Bridge deformed and stayed deformed. Interestingly CX12 at the end started to crack as it seems to get a bit brittle when completely dehydrated. Whereas both bridge and 910 performed better in completely dehydrated state. OTOH CX12 is the hardest of the 3 and probably the toughest under normal room temperature condition and also a little tougher to print. Maybe that is cause CX12 claims to be true Nylon whereas both bridge and 910 are an alloy. I also tried some inexpensive true Nylons some refer to as "Fishing line" And those need to be rehydrated before use (wrap them in a wet towel after printing if you believe in the slow method or drop them into a bucket of water for 24 hours or boil them the boiling is the fastest but you risk over hydrating them which can mask print flaws for a short period like poor layer adhesion and then when it stabilizes the problems show up (like poor layer adhesion due to under extrusion as an example) This probably in a water hose would be less of an issue. I think it would be quite interesting to see how far you can push Nylon in that. And his question was with his printer. So I might restate it that way "With his printer Nylon might give him the best chance of success even though its probably not advisable - but it would definitely be interesting to find out" .

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