Issue with my latest Pulse XE
@cope413 First calibration I ran was a bit off from the second, but the last one that I have plugged in now is
P=9.29 I=0.41 D=53.00
Those seem odd and pretty far off from default and what I would expect.
Based on the behavior in the video, try P20, I2.5, D30
Let me know what the heating behavior is and we can manually adjust from there.
@cope413 if you watched the videos… the nozzle temp will only go 20c below the set temps
I did watch the video. That's what I based those values to try off of. Try those and then let me know the behavior
This post is deleted!
Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.
Enter those in the EEPROM for your Kp, Ki, and Kd values
@cope413 Going to test it today. I got a little side tracked this morning as our OG original Pulse XE decided to give us a nice wake up surprise... We are currently "Pulseless".
I will bump this to a new thread and keep things separated.
@cope413 So with a print and nozzle set to 260, it climbed to 257/258 and actually commenced the print. Because I need closer to 264 I bumped up the control temp and tried climbing and ran for a few moments then error'ed out at 257
and the log
@cope413 and without trying to adjust nozzle temp mid print, its printing now but with the print sliced at 264c at nozzle, as you can see in the screen shot it won't climb above 258c....
Ok. Change the Ki to 2.75 and Kd to 25 and I'm guessing you'll get it right where it needs to be.
@cope413 Still not acting right and hovering just below the set temp and bouncing around. I got the second attempt to start printing good...
Then a few layers in she crashed and died. You can see in the pic she dropped down in Nozzle temp
At this point I really don't understand what were doing or why keep trying... There was something obviously not right with this printer.
@damianoffthegrid When we flashed new firmware, we wiped the PID settings (which are set and checked during final assembly and testing). The PID settings are what allows the temp to be reached and remain stable.
I see now in the pic that you don't have the silicone sock in place. This is likely the issue. The reason it started printing and then failed is likely because the part cooling fan turned on and cooled the hot end down enough to trigger the thermal runaway.
If you have the silicone sock, I'd recommend reinstalling it. If you don't, we can tune the settings without the fan, but they will be different.
@cope413 Not running part cooling...therefore the fan did not kick on to cause this. We cannot run part cooling with PC+CF
@cope413 Just to recap, when we started, the Z motors were dialed too high and acting up. Not sure if we determined why this was set this way...
We then re flashed the firmware. PID calibration obviously is not working or providing us reasonable values...
My first calibration gave me
My second calibration gave me
These kept the hotend 20c below the set temp no matter what I set it at.
We then bumped those up to your suggestions (still not sure why a self PID calibration did not give us reasonable values)
Now its getting higher but staying 3-4 degrees below set temp and fluxing heavily between 3-4c below set temp. This is with the nozzle even at HOME Z up and away from the bed.
So what we still have is a lot of unanswered questions on why this specific printer is acting so strangely...to begin with.
Spoke to David Gaylord and at this point, we both are just not sure why we are still messing with this printer when it clearly had issues early on....