Slice Engineering High Temp Thermistor
So I am wanting to print with higher temps for materials such a Polycarbonate and possibly PEI. I have a Slice Engineering 50W Heater Cartridge (https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/50w-heater-cartridge) and High Temp Thermistor (https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/thermistor-high-temperature). I have a Pulse XE S-232. How do I go about updating the Resistance/Temperature table for Smoothieware?
SpaceGhost1911 last edited by SpaceGhost1911
So here is how you do it:
Using this chart from Slice Engineering you can get the resistance per/°C:
I couldn't get the Smoothie Board to return back the calculations, but I used this calculator to solve for them:
So at the end of it all this is the line you need to send over to the Pulse XE with the 32-bit Smoothieware board to use the Slice Engineering High temp thermistor (https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/thermistor-high-temperature
M305 S0 I0.0002576262339 J0.0002190262490 K0.00000009835626257
Follow that with an M500 to save to your settings. Check the readout on your display and you should now be showing ambient.
Finally you will need to change your max temp of your hotend. In my particular case I have set mine to 330°C for now. This is the gcode for that:
M143 S0 P330
Again send a M500 to store your settings.
Hope this helps for anyone wanting to get more out of the amazing Pulse XE printer.
You know you better get a copper block too cause aluminum is good up to 320 330 max and you make yourself a custom sock cause the silicon socks die soon over 300. Also IDK what powersupply you have with the printer mine came with a 15 W and It ate 2 with a 40 watt cartridge and it is/was barely enough to drive the 30watt it came with as the bed eats a ton. So if you print like me at high temp with the bed at 100 (ABS/HIPS/Nylon) then you also need a heftier PSU and/or go 24 V . My C-232 is undergoing those mods and others as a side project
@mpirringer I already have an E3D copper block and have been running 40 watt cartridges for 8 months without issue. My power supply outputs 12v 15A. A 50W heater cartridge should draw around 4.2A. I would think that power supply should be more than adequate enough to power the new heater cartridge. I am having problems with the printer saving my settings between power cycles though. Trying to sort that out.
Check your volltage - doubt you have 12 V. My first powersupply went after 6 months and the 2nd 4 months after that the bed (at least on mine) is a 120 Watt (checked with meter) so that is 10 A so add 4.2 A to that and the motors each draw up to 2A. Granted the Z only move once in a while but the X and y go all the time so lets assume they only draw 1 A average which is generous so you are allready at 16 A you got some fans and the board too - you are already over your 15A Now the PSU will live for a while but not that long - especially if you run the bed at high temp. (the higher the bed temp the closer it gets to the 10A. Also the higher the nozzle temp the closer your heater cartridge comes to drawing its 4.2 A. Then check the mosfet on the board. If its like mine in stock there is no cooling on that - so that one gets hot and so do the motor drivers (I got one with the mini-rambo board) but they are all pretty much the same - and the hotter the chips get the more inefficient they get and the more they draw Now if your bed never gets over 70C and the ambient is reasonably warm then your bed will draw about 7 Amps average and you should be ok and only tax your PSU while its heating up. That is a 180 watt PSU (15x12) And because of those calculations most printers that size come with a 300-360 watt PSU and usually 24 V. Heck My Chirons sport a 1000W PSU stock.
@mpirringer Most certainly is a 12V output Power supply. I have gone through 5 spools of Carbon reinforced Polycarbonate without failure. I had to modify the override file to get my settings to save for the new thermistor.
@spaceghost191 I know its a 12 V powersupply what I meant is check if you get 12 V or 11 or 10 etc