Printing fast and accurate with a .4mm nozzle on a PULSE using SLIC3R
mpirringer last edited by
Well an oversight brought some new insight and I would like to know if anyone knows any ill effects of that particular practice. I got a PULSE C-232 with an E3D V6 hotend. Now that hotend broke and I got a new one from MatterHackers fully assembled and installed it. only thing I changed is I removed the thermistor and heater cartridge as the old ones were good and it did spared me messing with the wires.
Now here is the oversight. I ususally print with a .8 nozzle with .96 layer width and a layerheight between .2 and .4 the only one I print at .4 is HIPS cause its the only one that can handle about 40mm/s with a .96 layer width an .4 layer height the others have lower flow rates so I cut doen on layer height to get more layer adhesion (marginal seems to be best between .28 and .32) or more accuracy). Now the oversight was I did not consider that a new assembled V6 comes with a .4 nozzle and printed with the above mentioned .8 settings. The first thing was the torque wrench Matterhackers suggested I get and with .96 layer width and .4mm layer height it looked like this
assembled. I also printed some HTD pulleys and they printed fine. Then I said wait a minute and checked cause I remembered that the initial V6 came with a .4 nozzle and the E3D website says .4 nozzle. Well so I took a closer look and did not see much difference so I printed some pieces to break to test layer adhesion - did not feel much difference (cant wait for the breaker to be finished). SO jic I cut the layer height to .32 and printed another torque wrenche piece. Now this time with the settings for the outside perimeter at .48mm and the other perimeters at .96 and this was anbother inside piece for the torque wrench
Also printed from HIPS the brim still needs removal and just for the fun of it I upped the layer thickness for the first layer to .6 - well it looks a little rough and I marked some highpoints but it stuck down well to the garolite plate. the rest of it looks nice. subsequently now with the new .48 outside perimeter .96 inside perimeter .32 layer height I printed a bunch of gears for sizing and this planetary assembly tool
out of ABS the walls are 2mm thick that means they have 2 .48mm outside seems and then a .96 inside and SLIC3r laysa little sliver next to that that is probably something like .08mm or so to fill the rest. The round posts are 7.4mm also a .48 on the outside the rest with .96mm perimeters. Whole print - no rough spot. So it seems to be working. Something new to investigate.
This currently is amostly hollow gear for a planetary - its only for sizing to see if that thing can be assembled without breaking ones fingers it will eventually be printed out of Nylon when the design passes inspection
The infill I set to combine every 2 layers and upped the extrusion width for the infill to 1.92mm and there is starting to be some extra stinging on the inside plus it slows down considerably on the infill as it should slow to about 12mm/sec extruding 2mm width with a .64 layer height - so the volumetric speed control works. and no I am not going to print infill like that in the future. It would make no sens whatsoever as I can print .96x.32 at about 40mm/sec so I would not save any time. Just to see if maybe at some time I had a volcano I could put that kind of plastic through the nozzle at a higher speed.
So question is - anyone ever try this before - anyone got any concerns? I watched for skipping but so far no skipping on ABS HIPS or Bridge. Extruder motor is about the same temp as always - pretty warm to the touch but it is that with the .8 too does not feel any different. would be interesting if there is a current measuring feature somewhere to check that but if the thing is designed halfway decent the current should be limited by design. So is that a valid way?