I Know its an Old post but may help someone my heater on hotend would say decoupled randomly. basically i changed my plug to it JST 2 Pin Connector 22AWG wires work best imo, but automotive spade connectors work too. just a poor or open in wire an it says decoupled. hope this helps

Okay. How do you make the wipe pillar build first, before the part starts? Gcode draws a perimeter/supports with Extruder/material 1, then the part starts to draw before the wipe area. (eventually/haven't got the feed working after the extruder swap yet...) expected: PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT MY CODE ATTEMPT HERE: I put the extruder prime/feed G1 E160 here: is that wrong? feed for #2ext isn't making the initial G1 E160 on first swap, then once #2ext/material filament eventually feeds() the retract/feed exchanges work fine. Printer gcode: I'm sure it's right in front of me... don't know how things work in there yet... Help please?

@michael-petitclerc Thanks for the reply. I will try to get the info to the Github Link. The Extruder motor is dead stopped when the head is over the support material area.

Hey @cflanagan I'm glad to hear that you are liking the new Mattercontrol version. If you have not yet, I would upgrade to the current version which is now our fully released version. So we have found on some printers that if the heating block is not shielded, the part cooling fans can drop the temps enough to cause a thermal runaway error. So wrapping your block in a silicone sock or an insulating pad will help with this. I do agree that the printer should stop printing in the event of the error so this is something we should look into but at the very least it stopped heating! Let us know if you do run into any more issues or suggestions.

@mikelefty There are two ways to do this. One is to push the reset button on the front of the LCD. Another is to reflash the firmware for the MAX v3. The .hex file for the firmware is located at https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware/.

Maybe I'm issuing the wrong syntax for the M code? Are there examples? I can't find the Arduino code where the commands are parsed either. Which source would this be in?

It hot end worked fine the first 500 hours and then stopped heating to the set point temperature. Nothing changed. Maybe the heating resistors need to be replaced.

Also just realized that only the second extruder is working as normal, as if the first one was turned off entirely besides the temperature.

Did you re-flash the stock firmware? If so, then it's most likely not the programming or firmware.The RAMBo is a circuit board, and components on circuit boards can go bad. If that happened to components that directly affect the LCD pins, then you'd have trouble. You could try replacing the RAMBo board to logically determine if that's the problem. If you do and you still have the same problem, you know the problem is elsewhere. But given the other troubleshooting steps you've tried, that is possible.

Can you please outline the steps you've taken thus far, starting with the stock printer? We need to know what you've done to be able to tell you what to try.

i often use 600 grit sandpaper to get burnt plastic of the sides of my printer nozzle. By doing this filament is less likely to stick to nozzle and drag across your print. Of course you can always soak in Acetone however that is a long process of waiting.

There's multiple setting in firmware that causes the print head to disable at temperatures higher than 240ish. Go into the updated firmware supplied by seemecnc and in the master config file in Arduino use ctrl f to search "temp". youll notice some max settings are set to 240. change those to 270. even though he280 can go slighter higher im not familiar with any filaments that require that high of a temp.

That looks better, thanks. Those Bondtechs look great on that machine!I will have our web developer look into the image upload issue.

And I guess that a delta machine is always noisier than a Cartesian printer because it runs all 3 motors all the time. I think the firmware has some kind of an impact. I remember that the Prusa MK2 has different run modes in the firmware settings that impact the noise level. Running the motors in the low power mode makes the printer very quiet. I wonder, if that can be done on a Rostock, possibly by using Marlin instead of Repetier.

It sounds like an issue with the power supply. If you purchased through MatterHackers, please send an email to support@matterhackers.com and we'll assist. If you purchased elsewhere, please contact SeeMeCNC: https://seemecnc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?

@kfaulkner Nice; glad to hear it!

Glad to hear it, Ivan. That's some good insight, indeed. Thanks for sharing your experiences for the benefit of our community.

HE280 Repair Kit solved my last problem.Thanks for all the help!Gordon

I had a similar issue occurring. It was frustrating on long prints. The problem has been resolved for me and I think it was several issues occurring for me. I tried many things to resolve it including new Bowden tube types as well as the "grabber"One was to much pressure building up within the extruder. Reducing the flow control can help here. When your temp drops you may be experiencing this. Have you tested your thermistor and are you sure you have the right thermistor defined?The second for me was the Bowden tube did not have much slack for prints that were at the extreme of the radius. This caused it to slowly work its way out over time in long prints. Using a longer Bowden tube help resolve that.