Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.



  • I have been printing for a week with my new Pulse XE and the parts have been coming out great with nylon X. But now on one specific print which requires alot of support structures, the print is failing all the time. I have tried turning the model in the matter control 90degree and printing from other angles. The printer loses the tread over the support structure and its a disaster. I built an enclosure and it is 44c degrees inside while printing. Great result on other prints that even some needed some support structure. But this one is messing up and doing so really early on. I see that it is messing up at multiple places where supports are supposed to be. The base is really solid stuck. I am printing with skirt and brim so the base is solid. No problen with the adhesion of the base. Other than that I am printing nylon X with same settings as it came with.

    ![0_1619604293694_IMG_20210428_102107917.jpg](Uploading 100%)



  • @surfmagic your picture did not come through. They are very restrictive on picture sizes here so decrease the resolution and try again. in general the less supports the better and sometimes the "standard"settings just dont work for a particular model.



  • 0_1619712118712_thumbnail.jpg



  • Analyzing this closer it messes up on a flat part that doesnt reqiure supports. It is as if it doesnt move in Z axis. Today I had a succesful print with a modified version of this part. It looks real good. then after that one I was going to print another piece similar in size and I noticed that it was printing 3 layes on the first layer. so I stopped that print. Rebooted the printer and software. tried again and then on the second layer it offseted everything in xy so I had to cancel that on again. Why does it sometimes not move up? and why does if offset xy?



  • I'm no expert, Ive been using my Pulse XE for about 6 months or so, so take it for what it's worth - If you can still print other files with good results, maybe your .stl file is flawed (like non-manifold edges). You can use mesh-mixer or Widows #D Builder to find an repair.

    Good luck!



  • @thwclw Awesome! I found one naked point on the 3d file even thought computer program saw it as a cllosed polygon (before converting to stl). Maybe this is what did the trick for this print.



  • In the picture you definitely had a layer shift. That usually happens when the nozzle hits something either on the print or there is another obstruction. You might have multiple problems. Its difficult to see on this pic but you also might be over extruding so try to lower the extrusion multiplier. Ideally you tune it in with some test prints. IDK what nozzle you use but you would want to print something like a top open box with walls thickness at 1, 1.25, 1.5 and 2.25 Nozzle diameter. 0_1619788937111_20210403_162927[1].jpg
    And then measure with a caliper and inspect the walls. I have not tried a recent version of MC but if you use that then the 1.25 and 1.5 nozzle diameter walls will not print right as MC - at least the version I have ) does not print fractional nozzle diameter size walls whereas most other slicers now do.



  • @mpirringer said in Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.:

    Yes I am getting alot of prints with layer shifts. sometimes less sometimes too much. on this pic I aborted the print because I saw 2 layer shifts. You see the layer shifts on the left side of the print on the top of the photo and on the bottom(2 layer shifts).
    0_1619797587742_IMG_20210430_174106849.jpg



  • @surfmagic before you do parts like that you should dial the filament in. I currently dont have test prints for a .4 nozzle as I almost exclusively print with a .8 but it looks to me like you do have some overextrusion and/or some inconsistent extrusion. it is also difficult to see if you have some warping as I dont know what the final part os to look like. But warping can cause layer shifts too. Also make sure your belts are properly tightened and the grub screws on the pulleys on the motor tight



  • Hi I have no warping on my other parts that have printed good previously with nylonX. They measure exactly as the computer model up and down. I had bad warping on nylon but this is nlyon X. I have a heated enclosure at 40C. The parts that print good fit exactly into other parts. I am really blown away by the perfect fits of my parts.Extremly happy with the good prints, better than expected. I just do not know why I am starting to get these layer off almost every other print which I didn't get before. But maybe its the models. I am washing the bed every time and re-calibrating the bed every time also. well, I will keep trying. Thanks for your effort to help me! 🙂



  • If your shifts are at random layers, they may be caused by stepper motors missing a step. This can be caused by dirty or inadequate power supply or resonance issues. All it takes is for a low true step pulse to be inverted and voila - you have a missed step.

    Maybe clumps of filament build up on the hot end that eventually extend below the bottom of the nozzle - When they strike the previous layer, you lose a step and the clump gets knocked off leaving no evidence.

    I briefly had this issue when I tried to print my first PLA part - Changed from Nylon X to PLA and could not get a decent print from PLA to save my butt - I think in that case it was my .12 layer height that caused the issue - I went back to Nylon X without really solving the issue. I'll get back to it when I get some time.

    Good luck!



  • @thwclw Sometimes on parts a corner curls up and then the nozzle hits it and yoy get a shift.



  • @mpirringer Didn't think of that! I haven't had any curling issues so far (I guess I've been lucky)



  • @mpirringer Looks like there is some curling below the support (support taken away already) on the top left something sticking out



  • @surfmagic That can cause your layer shifts. It sometimes happens with certain materials if the overhang is too big or there are too many perimeters. Its a sign of uneven cooling. If you have the fan on try it with the fan off if the fan is already off the only things that help then is either up the chamber/ ambient temp if you can or use a different material or reduce the amount of material by reducing infill and perimters which will give you a weaker part. Or go to a differnet brand or material



  • @mpirringer The support recommended my take take away the heating chamber, they said the heating chamber may cause offset. I do not understand this.



  • @surfmagic Usually a printing chamber helps but NylonX is their filament so if anyone knows they should - hopefully. Even though I have stopped calling them ....



  • @surfmagic I think you got that reply because of the concern that the stepper motor driver chips may overheat in a heated chamber. All you have to do is get rid of your heated enclosure, buy a nice 36" 1 HP fan from harbor freight and aim at your controller and you'll be fine.



  • @thwclw If the electronics box is inside the enclosure that is bad. I put mine outside when I was using it and put a fan on the board because the D model did not have a fan blowing on the board which was quite ridicolous IMO



  • @mpirringer No fan on the S model (32 bit Azteeg X5 GT) either. The control board will be in the enclosure unless it's removed from the frame and taken out. I was going to put a fan on the control board box, but it would just be recirculating hot air from inside the chamber. Ductwork might help a little, but who knows. Probably better to remove it from the environment,

    I have just been leaving the enclosure panels open until I decide if I want to do anything about it.

    I haven't had too many problems that could be pinned on that issue, but I'm in Naples FL, just north of the everglades and summer is just around the corner so it might become an issue.



  • @thwclw Put a fan on anyway. Most commercial chips are good to 80 C and many above that so I doubt you exceed 50 in the chamber so even blowing 50 C air on an 80C chip is cooling. And you got mosfets etc in there that produce quite a bit of heat. any board that drives a 30+W hotend and a bed needs a fan.


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