Pros: - REALLY easy to set up - REALLY convenient. (Yes it doesn't need re-leveling if you don't change modules or readjust the heated bed) - Very good quality of print. The results are imho as good as ultimaker ones.
- small build room (125*125*125 -The beta of the slicing software is merely bad. But if you use e.g. Craftware, that problem is solved. - the heated bed takes almost 5 mins to get to more than 50 degrees Celsius. (At least it does reach around 80°... After some waiting)
I can't judge the CNC and Laser module yet, since I didn't test them so far.
I hope I was able to help you (even if it's 7 months late :P)
Thanks for the reply. I took a chance a just copied the wipe code into MatterControl, replacing the relevant section. Seems to work just fine. I'd be more comfortable if the bed didn't shoot so far forward, as the first tip *just* touches the wipe pad, but I'll worry about tweaking that later.
The Y axis for the 2nd extruder was "-50" (*minus* being the key), and seems to be working fine after a couple of test prints. It's weird thinking about how the numbers will be interpreted, but fortunately everyone seems to follow the same co-ordinates, so the dual extruder calibration steps for the TAZ 6 seemed to work just fine in MatterControl.
I did see the Printer Profile Bounty. Not sure that I would have any *significant* tweaking to qualify, but I'll keep it in mind.
My suggestions is to not downgrade Mono unless absolutely necessary. This has the potential to break other applications on your system. When the indicator is yellow, pretty much everything will still work except for the remote control features. Do you use those?
Sounds like a heat creep problem, but usually the translucent colors are less prone to this, not more. What exactly does the filament look like when you pull it out after a jam? Can you post a picture?
Your assessment is correct. These are the signs that one of the MOSFETs on the controller board has shorted out. If you inspect the board you may be able to find some visible damage to one of the chips. If you are good with SMD soldering and you have a hot air station, then you may be able to replace the component. Otherwise you are looking at buying a new controller board.