Learn how to create an L-bracket in this episode that gives you the basics on how to easily create 3D designs in MatterControl - MatterHackers own 3D design, prep and slice program for all your 3D printing needs.
Youtube Video:
https://youtu.be/0A8VA4CAFGw
To download MatterControl for free and start your 3D printing adventure, click here:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
rcode=YTUBE
Download the design used in this video:
https://pinshape.com/items/110153-3d-...
@mavin I use TinkSeal, it is the best lubricant for 3D printers I have found. Use it very lightly, except for inside the slide bearings, pack as much in them as possible. TinkSeal is not a grease, its all nano particles, so once its on, you can wipe off with a cloth and there will still be a coating on the surfaces. It is also great for plastic parts you print, very slippery. You can google it or I think tinkseal.com works.
@mavin If you are using a hardened nozzle, increase your hotend temperatures by +15C over recommended filament temperatures. Steel conducts heat poorly compared to brass.
@rbradford1111 Inductive probe is considerably more expensive than a micro switch.
@rbergins Maybe you can cut around the center screws with a sharp exacto knife?
We are still here and I answer questions from time to time. I am just busy printing in the meantime. 
I'm glad you got it figured out. Yes, the Mosquito has advantages and disadvantages. Removing the nozzle without holding the heat block is awesome until you really get a clog in there. At that point, the E3D V6 is nice to work with.
@mavin It should just snap on there if I remember correctly.
@mavin You have to push down and pull up. These fittings were originally designed to hold water or liquid pressure, much like the sharkbite fittings you find at your local hardware store.
@mavin Are you letting the hotend come up to full temperature before loading filament?
@mavin Those are great until they clog. Hardened steel can be heated with a blow torch to burn out the plastic. Just make sure you quench it in antifreeze to retain it's hardness.
@mavin Use Prusa MK3s profile. Double check the print area is 9" x 10".
I'm on Linux at the moment, but I will spin up a Vm a little later and try everything out. Thanks!
Printer x-axis is still perfectly level. I am in about 15,000 parts since the creation of the modification. I checked the clearances with my calipers and it is still right on. No longer worry about part separation or mid print failures from the gantry being out of sync. Before printing, I set Z=0, probe the bed in 106 spots, load height map and print.
@cpat You either have a E3D V6 or a Sliceengineering Mosquito. If you post a picture, I can advise you on nozzles. Either way, I would suggest purchasing hardened steel nozzles.
Pulse XE Single Motor Gantry Lift
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4884929
The Problem:
Z – axis lift gantry becomes out of sync during usage, nozzle to bed height becomes random either loosing bed adhesion or driving the nozzle into the print surface. Auto leveling between print layers/prints is just not realistic. Running both stepper motors from one driver will not keep gantry level.
The Solution:
Single stepper motor dual Z-axis gantry lift system.
Notes:
I have tested to over 5000 prints at the time of this writing without a single readjustment. I have dropped the driver current from 1.2A to 1.0A, preforms perfectly with less power. Z – axis pillow blocks are longer in order to keep the T8 shafts from bending. The two stepper pillow blocks mount in place of the z-axis motors, these are the longer 65mm blocks. The one short 30mm block is used a a belt tensioner next to the drive motor. You will need to cut a short piece of T8 lead screw for the 30mm belt tensioner block and add the two lock collars on either side of each of the bearings. It is suggested to repack your Abec 9 bearings with TinkSeal. This will give permanent lubrication as well as help seal out plastic abrasive dust. Use dental pick to carefully remove the rubber bearing seals. This will save you a headache down the road. Miscellaneous hardware will be needed depending on the size used. I suggest picking up a multi pack of bolt and T-nut hardware. I originally used M3, but this is too light for long term use.
2 - 65mm Stepper pillow blocks Long
1 – 30mm Stepper pillow block short
1 – Nema 17 48mm LDO/E3D stepper motor (same as x-axis motor)
4 - Squash ball feet:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4626207
3 - 60 Teeth 8mm Bore Aluminum Timing Pulleys
1 - 60 Teeth 5mm Bore Aluminum Timing Pulleys
2 - Nema 17 Stepper Motor Mounting Bracket, 304 Stainless Steel
1 - Timing Belt L=800mm W=6mm 400 Teeth in Closed Loop
4 - Lock Ring 8mm Shaft Lock Collar T8
6 - 608 RS Bearings ABEC 9 (RS = Rubber Seals)
1 - TinkSeal.com Bearing lubricant
1 - Dentist Pick
2- T8 600mm Lead Screw (cut to length)
Misc Bolt Hardware & Matching T-nuts
Print Settings
Printer:
Pulse XE
Rafts:
Doesn't Matter
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.25
Infill:
35
Filament brand:
MatterHackers
Filament color:
Black
Filament material:
CarbonFiber Nylon / PETG
Notes:
This is by far more reliable than the current MatterHackers setup. Cheaper to manufacture and does not limit your Z-axis height. With taller upper brackets and longer T8 screws, you could very possibly lift the hotend up to the bottom of the D frame. I am working on new brackets to gain 25-50mm higher Z.
@larsbrubaker Thanks Lars! At the time of the mod, I was still running the Azteeg board and this solved many of the problems and headaches faced by both end users and MatterHacker staff. Even beginner/intermediate users can do this simple modification. I think I spent about $100.
I have since upgraded to the new Duet3 Mini 5+ board. I am working on the write up and will post it on your forums. I have all the Duet3 config files, printed hardware files and images already uploaded to my Github page. I understand that Duet isn't for everyone, but the Pulse XE now performs in the manner everyone wanted it to.
If MatterHackers produced a PulseDuet, I believe it would be very popular. And support for the printer would not be a burden to MatterHackers because users could go to the Duet3 forums. The support there is insane. They work with 3dprinters, laser, engraving, cnc and other projects. As long as you learn how to post in their forums, response time is usually in just minutes. They are very serious about selling Duet electronics and MatterHackers is already an official dealer.
Ive seen this happen frequently. It has nothing to do with MatterControl. I post my designs on the Prusa community page and my designs come out 10% smaller than normal for them. STL files contain no scale information, and the units are arbitrary. I don't know if there is a fix for this. I think it is best to check your measurements before you print someone else's STL.
@larsbrubaker I would love to have a dual extrusion printer as long as it could print Nylon. I want to play with parts that have a carbon fiber interior for structural strength and a Kevlar exterior for high wear surfaces.