@mpirringer said in So let down...:

Hotend mount needs to be redesigned and printed out of something that is not RYNO currently some of the parts I printed out of HIPS namely the ones that are close to the bed - otherwise you do a big hips or ABS prit with the bed at 100 and the bottom of the fan shroud will deform from the heat of the bed. The fan even when perfect blows too much onto the nozzle or the bed you can't keep the nozzle at 270 and bed at 85 + if the fan is at 100% 60% max will work at any temp. The leg of the BL touch is unprotected and I currently level manually as every time a print comes loose I lost a leg and replacing it 3x is enough for me. The wires in the back of the heater block also need protecting so that should be designed differently too.

Thanks for all the info! yeah I lost a few bl touch legs too, I ended up designing a small switch that would raise a magnet and springs would pull the touch down and then after leveling would lower the magnet and pull the sensor back up just a few mm and that seemed to be a nice tweak.

I was able to replace a few parts and getting working enough for me to donate it to a local maker spot.

Sorry for my abrasiveness, frustration got the best of me.

I have been so let down by what I hoped to be a supportive local company. The PulseXE I purchased has never lived up to the $1500 purchase price. The quality has yet to even match my Anet A8 (I have pics if you want). I honestly feel like they have ripped me off.

I tried to support the community, I even created a thread to help those configure the XE.

I am so disheartnened, I was able to get/build/print with my other new printer (I will withhold the name) in less than a day.

Sorry folks, but I have to move on... I will be breaking down the pulseXE to make a decent printer with the parts.

https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/how-to-rescue-a-print-that-stopped-mid-way/2392 and https://www.instructables.com/id/continue-failed-3d-print/ have helped me in the past.

Here is where I am at now:

Phil looks pretty good, the grey one is the new one, the black one is the one from the factory. I am getting close. There is an issue with the hands on my version.

You can see the hands did not fuse together well, a little spaghetti.

Then I printed the calibration circle that comes with MatterControl.

The bottom was perfect!

The top not so much.

Then I did the finishing test and that turned out pretty good! Minor blobs (running too hot maybe) and the tip of the pyramid did not stick.

Next I dialed up retraction to 6mm and now hardly any stringing. I am using Matterhackers Ryno btw. Next I will deal with the blobs and I am noticing a bit of filament powder left behind the bondtech, so I might want to dial that back a bit.

The first thing I did was to calibrate the extruder length (link).

I now can spit out 100mm strips all day

This thread will document my journey to calibrating my Pulse XE after doing a hot end rebuild. Much of this will probably apply to other printers, in fact I will do the same on my Anet A8 and note some of the differences as I come across them.

The three main topics will be:

• Printer Calibration
• Printer Testing
• Tips & Tricks learned along the way

1. Calibrate Extruder
2. Dial in retraction
3. ???

Okay here we go. I put things back together and started calibrating again.

Test cube:

A little elephant foot action, some gaps in the top layer.

Then a benchy:

This is the worst side, odd dents, seems like an extrusion/temp issue maybe.

The Mini Torture Test (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429
)

Not great, for comparison here is one from my Anet A8:

Plans: up retraction to 6mm from 4mm AND to move this to a calibration thread. Thank you all for your help!

@liminal you can for sure use a pi and mattercontrol, they have a .deb or you can build from source for debian based systems. The timelapse is a little more tricky, you can set up in Pi a timelapse that you fire off via a click or something and it will take snaps on a timed basis. Maybe if Mattercontrol has an API or some sort of hook then you might be able to track z changes.