I have had great results with my T10 - A few longer prints (9 hours +) have printed beautifully. One file I tried (admittedly a huge STL) crashed the program while slicing but that is the only failure I have had. I was able to slice in my Mac and transfer the gcode to the T10, printed without any issues using that work-around. Agreed that the solution is not bulletproof, but very happy with the T10 after using it nearly every weekend since it has arrived.

I am taking full advantage of the camera and the cloud library features. I have the smaller mattercontrol touch as well, that had issues when i first got it, but every update (seems to want to update once a month of so) has improved software robustness features.,

I have not found one yet...

Thanks @jataadriod for the hints, seems logical. I will try these and report back.

Do you have an STL file?

I built a Rostock MAX, had the same concerns at first but I found it to be very easy/intuitive. The documentation for the build is very through (almost 300 pages long if i remember correctly) and a great step by step guide. Took about 20 hours in total (a week of evenings), No soldering was required so you may even be over qualified!

I would say go for it - you will be happy to know the ins and outs of your machine after the build of over (it is never over, there are many upgrades to the Rostock.

I have one on the way - looking forward to it!

I usually hit the Bed Temp "PREHEAT" button in MatterControl while i am adjusting the final print settings. By the time I hit print and the hot end is to temperature there is no waiting for the bed to get up to temp.

Also a believer in the device. I have been using MC Touch with my SeeMeCNC Orion for about a year now. The device is always improving with updates. I have not had any overheating or shielding issues. I saw there was a CES announcement for a larger screen, that should improve the UI.

So far, worth the investment. I have started using Cloud Library alot to send print jobs directly to the machine. The touch is headed in the right direction for the future of 3D Printing for sure.

Well, now I know what I am working in this weekend...

Stock retract setting was 7mm changed it to 2.5mm and it seems to work much better now. Was also able to remove the E3D hotend, clean the dust that had accumulated on the cooling fins, checked to make sure the nozzle was tight against the heat break.

All these together seemed to solve the problem. Thanks for the help,