Can you post a picture?
Posts made by ryan.lutz
RE: Fuzzy top layers
Under-extrusion, probably due to insufficient heat, or printing too fast. Check out this article to start: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-get-the-best-3d-printed-parts-by-understanding-extrusion-settings
RE: Pull out on pause?
You can configure any set of commands to be run during pause by inserting them into the Pause G-Code field: http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/SETTINGS/Printer/Custom_G-Code/Pause_G-Code
See here for a reference to G-Code commands: G-code - RepRap
RE: Kodama Trinus3D profile for MatterControl?
MatterControl sends G-Code over a serial connection, so if the Trinus3D can support that protocol, it is compatible with MatterControl at the basic level. I noticed from a quick search about the printer that it also transforms into a laser engraver; this functionality is not inherent to MatterControl. Only the 3D printing side would likely work, though with some experimentation, you might be able to use the laser.
In any case, we don't have one, so we won't likely produce a profile for MatterControl in the short term future, but you can probably figure something out. Check out these links for more info:
RE: more questions
The next version of MatterControl will have much better support generation capabilities, so I'll defer any solutions until that's released. I think you'll enjoy it when it's ready (which I don't have an estimate for, other than *possibly* later this year, maybe next year).
RE: stuffmaker 3d evolution clear X axis homing issue
Refurbishing a printer can be a tough job. Getting into the nitty gritty details of how to perform each step of refurbishment is a little outside the scope of the type of help we can provide for free through our forum, but I'd like to try to point you in the right direction if I can.
The basic steps to refurbishing a printer are these:
1. Disassemble, clean, and reassemble any components or parts as necessary. Replace if needed.
2. Restore all mechanical functionality, and make sure parts interact with each other as intended.
3. Ensure all electrical connections are good.
4. Flash new firmware, if needed.
5. Test, adjust, and test again.
Eventually, if everything is configured correctly, the printer will work again. If something is off, or not working properly, you'll need to fix it before continuing.
That said, it sounds to me like you're hung up on number 2, as the X axis is not functioning properly. What about it doesn't work?
RE: Stuffmaker Printers
Marlin or Repetier are the two main firmware choices in the open source realm; I suggest using one of those.
RE: Need help with first layer speeds above support structures
See the full list of speeds available in MatterControl here: http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/SETTINGS/General/Speed
As you'll see, there's not a specific setting for the layer above the support material, but perhaps one of the other speeds is the one you'll want to adjust for the layer you're having trouble with.
I could take a closer look if I had the G-Code. Can you share the .gcode file? Use Dropbox or Google Drive and share the URL.
RE: Taulman Natural Bridge Filament - Not sticking to PEI Sheet Bed.
Glass with glue stick is the best bed adhesion method for Nylon filament. 255 for the nozzle; 55 for the bed. PEI will most likely have issues.
RE: more questions
Can you tell me why you specified non scented spray.
Because extra hold is the type that works, and being unscented it won't smell up your work area.
How often would you spray, for every print,
Every print or two should be fine.
also how do you clean up the spray from the glass.
With water on a towel.
If you're getting shrinkage, the best thing to do is use an enclosure over the entire printer.
RE: Which Printer to buy?
Hi neferkamichael, thanks for your post. I re-positioned it in our 3D printing category since it's more about a printer than the software used. For reference, most any of the printers we sell are compatible with MatterControl, though there are a few exceptions, and I can cover those if you're interested.
Choosing a printer isn't as simple as asking, "Which one is the best?". There's lots of different printers which do the same thing differently, and have pros and cons. To get a better idea of which printer will suit you the best, I have a few questions.
- What's your budget?
- What kind of material do you want to be able to print with?
- What is the biggest print you want to be able to do?
- What is your experience level with 3D printing?
- Is open source important to you, or are you okay with a printer that has proprietary restrictions if it means a better user experience?
With answers to these, I can provide you with a strong recommendation, assuming one of our printers matches your criteria. Alternatively, you can always stop by our showroom if you're in California, email us at email@example.com, or give us a call at 949-613-5838 to discuss the options.
Thanks for your interest in MatterHackers!
RE: more questions
If only the corners are curling, this sounds more like a bed adhesion issue than a leveling issue. You could adjust the Z Offset down a bit, but more than likely you will need to make some physical changes to your bed surface.
What type of filament are you printing with?
What are your nozzle and bed temperatures?
What surface is on the bed now?