@erikescudero @mpirringer

Hello,

Thank you for your answers

Taulman Bridge and 910 nylons seems popular and successful with mechanics, but the color mostly white and almost semi-transparent, I'm looking for medium shade grey, turquoise, beige and skin colors, color and its combination important, because peripheral elements in my project shows the operation process in an open form. First I want try Grey PRO Series Nylon Filament, most important thing is warping problem, because I have oblong, thin and tiny parts, which is completely successful with NylonX in all respects. If carbon fiber does not plays a key role for this requirement, Grey PRO Series should work fine, this filament looks similar to the grey color I'm looking for

Hello,

I'm looking for advice on Nylon, I want use it for mechanic parts. With Pulse XE I've used number of materials and one of the best by my opinion is NylonX with carbon fiber. I need to find some material with different color. For example Grey PRO Series Nylon Filament - 1.75mm (0.75kg) 1.75mm filament but I don't know about quality for mechanics, as warping etc

Hello,

I'm trying to find if it is possible in MatterControl with Pulse XE printer count length of used filament with printing in current session, to know how much filament required for particular model

@erikescudero

@mpirringer

So finally I found the reason of mysterious stuck and it is extremely simple, to such an extent that I am a little ashamed to admit

When the extruder turns reel with loading filament at a certain moment it stretches the material and, as a result, contracts in the cavity of the entrance hole of extruder and thereby gets stuck at the very beginning, before entering the gears, what explains successful unloading, when the filament stuck, and printing only 1-2 layers for small part, what is equal to point of reel turn when wire is stretched.

The solution to this problem also simple, I just unwound the wire and keep it free to not stretch and avoid this blockage, which even not looks like deformation, but as a slight thickening on tiny area after release and compression of flexible material, when the wheel turns after pulling the wire, then failure occurs

Seems like problem is solved, now I have to figure out, how can I make TPU printing a bit faster, it is too slow, I will try 30

Thank you for your attentive support

@erikescudero

Hello Erik

Thank you for your feedback

It is true this NylonX is quite wet in this case. I've dry it for 9 hours, now it is dry, but sticking problem still exist. It is true, I've never used glue for NylonX till last Reset to defaults. I use raft for specific parts, but I've never tried brim. For cleaning the bed I use usual cleaning spray without alcohol, mostly to remove leftovers easier, not glue, because I was never used it for NylonX till now, should work for glue as well

@erikescudero

Hello Erik

Thank you for your feedback

I've already tried higher temperature from 190 to 240, maybe I should try higher, but if particular TPU printing temperature is 190 °C, then 250 °C must be very high, I'm not sure

For cleaning the bed I use cleaning spray without alcohol, mostly to remove leftovers easier and I use Elmer glue stick and have tried Kstick, both works, but as I've said before, it was not required for NylonX, which I have printed about 2 kg successfully small and bigger mechanical parts, and glue was never required, moreover when I've tried glue with NylonX before reset, part was not attached to bed well, and now it is vise-versa, peel off without glue and stick with glue

And I did not used glue for TPU as well, because first layer with TPU sticks very good, but filament stops to move through the tube after 1-2 layers printed, seems like between extruder and nuzzle. I don’t see this, but it seems to me that the wire is bent somewhere, maybe because the pipe is wide for it, I don’t know, how it will behave if the pipe will be narrower, because TPU and NylonX both are 1.75mm, and as far as I can see the tube is not much wider than the wire

@mpirringer

In my experience with NylonX glue was never required till now. Maybe in this case, it can be caused somehow by incorrect calibration, I don't know if distance between nozzle and bed affects attaching of material. I'm not sure about difference between previous settings and new, but it looks like it prints layers same way as it was before, seems correctly

@mpirringer

Temperature 16-18 C, but I'm not sure, what must be correct setting for fan:

@mpirringer

Hello,

I've tried it with 190, 200, 210, 220, 240, 250 but it same result. I got first 1-2 layers printed well, and then filament stops move through the nozzle.

As I've said above, once wire was deformed inside extruder between gears, and reason was more clear, but with all other following attempts, seems like something fails after extruter, because it passes or unloads filament fine, and wire is not deformed after failure. It looks like it stuck in nozzle or somewhere above between nozzle and extruder, maybe inside the tube.

I can't find any additional information for this LeoPlas TPU 1.75mm+-0.05mm, Printing temp: 190 °C  Platform temp: 60 °C

@mpirringer

Hello,

Thank you for your feedback

Well I've added a bit glue on the garolite bed, which was not required for NylonX before. I have printed a lot of parts with this material, small parts as well with using of such rafts and it was always attached without additional adhesive, and it is first time I see such failure as shown on image, but I'm almost sure melting occurred because raft was peeled off the bed and stick to nozzle.

It is unclear, because it was vise-versa, it did not stick with using glue, and was fine without it before reset and new calibration, provoked by a problem, described here: Pulse XE TPU printing settings by the way, sorry for late answer there, it is still actual.

Now I've tried use glue first time for NylonX and it seems like I have fist start, which is still successful, will see. Anyway, something has definitely changed in printer behavior after reset, for sure.