@mpirringer Thank you for your attentive support

Warranty conditions is not simple in my case, because I am too far from United States, and sending of parcel back will be very expensive, I don't know if warranty provides sending of replacement part to consumer, but what would be useful from MH support at least, is a guide for checking and replacement.

So, once again, following your advice, I need E3D v6 Thermistor Replacement Kit and maybe E3D Ceramic Heater Cartridge 12v 30w I'm not sure about 12 V, if VCC and GND shows 10.4 V.

For power wires I hope this must be suitable: BNTECHGO 18 Gauge Silicone wire spool red and black each 25ft Flexible 18 AWG Stranded Copper Wire

For isolation: High Temp Tape, ELEGOO 4 Pack Polyimide High Temperature Resistant Tape Multi-Sized Value Bundle 1/8’’, 1/4’’, 1/2’’, 1’’ with Silicone Adhesive for Masking, Soldering etc.

I can't find any burns on Mini Rambo, close to bed terminal or anywhere else, all pins are fine, but if damage is invisible, then replacement board must be this: Semoic 1PC DC 10-28V Mini-Rambo 1.3 Control Board Set Kit 3D Printer Part for Prusa MK2 in this case seems I've to find some guide to replace board with all requirements for Pulse XE model D-132

Please, correct me if I selected some device wrongly.

About checking of thermistor wire, if I will remove garolite from bed, when even a small corner removed from the surface weakens stickiness in this place, in current situation it maybe dangerous, because I don't have any replacement parts for this moment, and without removing bed it is difficult remove insulation, check thermistor, check wire with continuous test, cut and crimp wire as you've suggested. But I think, your guess obviously must be true, so first of all I need replacement parts, at least flexible wire. Because it may turn out, that I will be not able to use the printer until I fix everything, maybe including new LayerLock Garolite Build Surface 11.8" x 11.8", so, this requires the time, because at the moment I've printed a couple of small parts on a cold bed and it is ok. Possibly I will finish my current work successfully, even if there is a risk of losing time and material

Hello,

Thank you for your feedback!

Here is what I found, after "printer heated, thermal runaway" happened again.

First of all, I've checked bed connection GND, VCC and thermistor, looks fine:

and its connection on board:

nothing looks damaged:

Here is GND, VCC power connection, which at first glance looks fine:

As you've noted, it is some wiring problem, but it is not clear. If I keep bed connection this way:

bed temperature on board shows incorrect value, which is 28-32 degrees just with turning on and preparing with bed, and if I will touch wires with hand this way:

It shows correct temperature increasing, but as soon as I release it, temperature number drops to minimal 28-32 degrees false value, what produces "printer heated, thermal runaway" error.

The blue "led1" indicator in the middle, between VCC and GND, behaves chaotic, sometime blinks with failure value, sometime vice-versa, or does nothing or keeps constant light.

Seems like during failure (minimal temperature value on the display) bed continuous increase temperature above the given value, what seems dangerous, I guess "thermal runway error" should appear each time in such situation, but it is not.

It looks like, the reason is clear, it is wire, but I can't figure out where this problem location actually is, because all sides looks fine, and thermistor under the bed also looks good without any physical damage.

Here is another unclear thing, the red VCC power wire melts, now I found that the exactly this wire with ground wire becomes very hot and produces smell, by this reason once it was different "heating failed, printer halted" error, instead "thermal runway error":

It is two manifestations of problem, but I can't say for sure, if touching of wire helps with hot VCC wire, just shows correct temperature value with touching, as shown in pictures above, and fails again if I release my hand. It is unclear why VCC wire is hot, I don’t see anything physically damaged, seems like it goes hot when heated, then wire temperature decreases, when bed keeps temperature.

Then I found physical damage point, which normally should produce short circuit, between VCC and ground wires directly where they are connected to terminal on the board, wires was fused to each other, you even can see it in this picture above, but also when I've looked closer, it was the contact between wires, caused by melting, so reason of melting is not contact itself, and what is a more confusing, there wasn't short circuit, when I saw metal on both wires separated from each other, which was clearly in contact. I was happy to think, that this was a reason of the problem, I've removed VCC and GND wires from terminal, cleaned damaged plastic, isolated it with heat shrink tube.

But wire still hot, melts, and temperature on display jumps from real to minimal value, and bed is overheated if minimal failure value keeps long time, so real temperature goes above the given for example if given 55, then after failure to minimal can be 61 or higher, or gives "thermal runaway" error. Touching with hand now works almost same way as it was before repairing of wires, given the fact that I've putted insulating tape on bed connector too, to fix it in position, but nothing helps, looks like it fails less, and touching with hand still shows correct temperature, but not all the time. So, something is damaged.

I've bought this Pulse XE about year ago from MH. I don't know about warranty or replacement parts, I still even don't know what exactly causes this failure, to replace something, but if I get you right if it is board, should be this one I guess Semoic 1PC DC 10-28V Mini-Rambo 1.3 Control Board Set Kit 3D Printer Part for Prusa MK2 and I'm not sure which thermistor with wire must be suitable, something like this one maybe Mmei 5pcs NTC 3950 100K Thermistor with 1 Meter Wiring and Female Pin Head for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed pre-wired or Hot End

Now I'm trying to figure out, how to remove bed from Pulse XE properly to check thermistor, then if problem with it, need to figure out, which type of thermistor should I use to replace. When I'm checking connector end of thermistor, it does not shows anything with 200k 20k with ohm on multimeter, when heated bed or just turned off printer, VCC and GND on the bed side and terminal shows 10.4 V, anyway, I'm not sure if this checking is correct, at least I have to check it with continuous test, but there is nothing on internet like assembly guide for this task. I guess I should remove glued garolite from bed, but it seems that after removal it loses its ability to adhere, maybe after heating the glue grabs surfaces again, but nevertheless I would like to have at least some guidance for further actions: first of all, identify the problem and know which details to use for replacement. Because, as I know changing the thermistor must be correct, suitable device, and I can't see guide for board replacement as well

Also I was thinking about disable the bed runaway temperature warning to finish my particular work, because I am stacked now at an extremely inopportune moment. But I am alarmed by the fact that when the temperature goes to minimum, and then received from thermistor again, it rises above the settings limit.

And now seems like bed temperature does not shows anything on the display, when bed goes hot it keeps on 25-27 degree, sounds like thermistor completely lost.

Last solution I found possible, maybe it will work for me in this situation, I want try to print Nylon X with 0 temperature for bed, maybe it will work, because I am fixing the raft for security with flat thermoplastic clamps, it’s quite possible that I will be able to fix the first layer for current print without bed temperature somehow. When I'm trying export such setting from MatterControl it says "Bed Leveling Temperature, data compensates for machine misalignment and bed distortion, and ensures good first layer adhesion", but I've exported same setting to SD card with 0 for bed temperature, and what can I say, if I don't have to expect any other failures with this setting, first layer adhesion is very good, and I can use clamp in addition

Hello,

I've Pulse XE model D-132 3d printer which was successful for year of using, but today, when I have started new printing after few days after last session which was successful without any unwanted accidents, printer shows error: "printer heated, thermal runaway, please reset", printing was stop during process almost in beginning.

Another thing, which seems to me doubtful, control block of printer smells like something melts or burns inside (if you bring nose close), but when I was printed number of parts, this smell was slight, then I thought that the board just smells like that during operation, and I just did not noticed that before, but at the same time I was not sure if it was before.

I'm trying to figure out, what should I check to fix this problem. I don't know if this error will appear again, but it happened first time, and it would be bad if printing will stop during process with bigger parts.

I've looked to nozzle, and there was some melted material over aluminum box, and Bed Leveling Probe was stacked by unknown reason, when printer was stopped.

Now I've start another print, and here is what I see, the bed temperature jumps, when normally must be 55, with particular nylon X: video

And few minutes later it jumps with bigger time interval only from 55 to 54, and control box does not smells anymore, but current behavior is:

1. Now I'm sure that the slight smell of melting plastic from control box is not normal, because now it does not smells (after failure and second attempt) and it never was before, I noticed this with the last two printing sessions before failure. Maybe something was burned inside control box.

2. "printer heated, thermal runaway" error was once (I've checked wires, cleaned aluminum box of melted material, fixed horn of Bed Leveling Probe)

3. Bed temperature does not jumps from 55 to 54 to 34, as show in this video anymore, but still jumps from from 55 to 54 with less frequency

I've checked almost everything by this guide and after finishing of current print I want check bed connection as show in this video

Any advice, guide or example would be helpful

@erikescudero

Hello,

Thank you for your answer, I've missed it, sorry for late reply

@erikescudero @mpirringer

Hello,

Thank you for your answers

Taulman Bridge and 910 nylons seems popular and successful with mechanics, but the color mostly white and almost semi-transparent, I'm looking for medium shade grey, turquoise, beige and skin colors, color and its combination important, because peripheral elements in my project shows the operation process in an open form. First I want try Grey PRO Series Nylon Filament, most important thing is warping problem, because I have oblong, thin and tiny parts, which is completely successful with NylonX in all respects. If carbon fiber does not plays a key role for this requirement, Grey PRO Series should work fine, this filament looks similar to the grey color I'm looking for

Hello,

I'm looking for advice on Nylon, I want use it for mechanic parts. With Pulse XE I've used number of materials and one of the best by my opinion is NylonX with carbon fiber. I need to find some material with different color. For example Grey PRO Series Nylon Filament - 1.75mm (0.75kg) 1.75mm filament but I don't know about quality for mechanics, as warping etc

Hello,

I'm trying to find if it is possible in MatterControl with Pulse XE printer count length of used filament with printing in current session, to know how much filament required for particular model

@erikescudero

@mpirringer

So finally I found the reason of mysterious stuck and it is extremely simple, to such an extent that I am a little ashamed to admit

When the extruder turns reel with loading filament at a certain moment it stretches the material and, as a result, contracts in the cavity of the entrance hole of extruder and thereby gets stuck at the very beginning, before entering the gears, what explains successful unloading, when the filament stuck, and printing only 1-2 layers for small part, what is equal to point of reel turn when wire is stretched.

The solution to this problem also simple, I just unwound the wire and keep it free to not stretch and avoid this blockage, which even not looks like deformation, but as a slight thickening on tiny area after release and compression of flexible material, when the wheel turns after pulling the wire, then failure occurs

Seems like problem is solved, now I have to figure out, how can I make TPU printing a bit faster, it is too slow, I will try 30

Thank you for your attentive support

@erikescudero

Hello Erik

Thank you for your feedback

It is true this NylonX is quite wet in this case. I've dry it for 9 hours, now it is dry, but sticking problem still exist. It is true, I've never used glue for NylonX till last Reset to defaults. I use raft for specific parts, but I've never tried brim. For cleaning the bed I use usual cleaning spray without alcohol, mostly to remove leftovers easier, not glue, because I was never used it for NylonX till now, should work for glue as well