Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.

  • @thwclw Put a fan on anyway. Most commercial chips are good to 80 C and many above that so I doubt you exceed 50 in the chamber so even blowing 50 C air on an 80C chip is cooling. And you got mosfets etc in there that produce quite a bit of heat. any board that drives a 30+W hotend and a bed needs a fan.

  • @mpirringer I had a temperature meter inside and it never got hotter than 40C.

  • @mpirringer Thanks, I have a fan I can use so why not!

  • @surfmagic The temp inside the enclosure does not matter what matters is the temp of each chip like for example the temp in the enclosure can be 40 but the bed might be 100 so a particular chip or mosfet could be well above its rated temp. So you can easily see that on the board if you take a pic with a thermal camera or just put your finger on different parts of the board and you will feel a definite temp difference

  • @thwclw no fan on e model either, with same board ( gt ). Not enough fan slots? My ender came with a board fan ffs

  • @mpirringer that must be incorrect thinking, or else they would have taken the 5 dollar hit from the over 300% profit being made to put a fan to cool it.
    Sarcasm of course.
    Just sour

  • @surfmagic said in Bad prints in pulse XE with lots of support structure.:

    Hi I have no warping on my other parts that have printed good previously with nylonX. They measure exactly as the computer model up and down. I had bad warping on nylon but this is nlyon X. I have a heated enclosure at 40C. The parts that print good fit exactly into other parts. I am really blown away by the perfect fits of my parts.Extremly happy with the good prints, better than expected. I just do not know why I am starting to get these layer off almost every other print which I didn't get before. But maybe its the models. I am washing the bed every time and re-calibrating the bed every time also. well, I will keep trying. Thanks for your effort to help me! 🙂

    I was getting the same problem. I ended up getting it narrowed down to- incorrect z offset / initial layer too low- causing the sides of each line to spiil over and eventually build up
    With a bit of warping from fan settings or lack thereof that the nozzle would eventually hit and miss a step.
    Also z hop plus getting a more desired initial layer. Couldve been the loose heaterblock it came with. Or z axis out of sync , idk. All of them ? None of them? Your guess is as good as mine. Too bad these "prusa clones" would only qualify to as prusa's second cousin.
    Boy am i salty
    450 dollar azteeg x5 gt when they are less than 150, dont start comparing the rest of the parts , or youll be salty af too.
    My pulse is destined to be scrapped toward a voron switchfire . Not because im some goober with no brain. The parts are coming out more often than not pretty well. They fit, and are functional- mil spec. But i get closer to the edge everytime i inspect further

  • MatterHackers

    @rbradford1111 I removed one sentence from your comment. You're free to criticize and complain on the forum, but you don't need to use offensive language to do so.

    Sorry you're upset with the printer. I'm happy to help with any specific issue.

    As for the fan "issue", the Azteeg board and the BSD drivers are rated for well above what they are running at. Active cooling is simply not necessary - even in a passively heated enclosure. The Prusa, which you are fond of, doesn't have a case fan and the Einsy Rambo 2130 drivers run significantly hotter than the Azteeg with 2660 drivers. Further, there are giant heat sinks on the 2660 drivers - and no heat sinks on the 2130 drivers.

    I'm really not sure why this is a problem. If you have evidence of heat causing issues with the electronics, please let us know and we'll take a look immediately. Life is hard enough as it is, though, so there's no need to create problems that don't exist.

    If you want to add a fan, go for it. There are a few 5v options, as well as 24v options. I responded to one of your other threads with more information about that.

  • @rbradford1111 Thanks I will try not too low initial layer

  • I have more than 30,000 prints on my Pulse XE and I can offer you some support for your issues. I also had bad layer shifting as you are experiencing. One problem with the Pulse is that you cannot print faster than 25-35mm/s. The other issue is bad firmware sent out with the printers. There is an updated firmware available for the Azteeg board, converting it from Smoothieware to Marlin. If support won't help you with this, I will make it available.

    Another issue with the Pulse is dual z-axis stepper motors. No matter how many times you calibrate, even with duet3D auto level, no matter what anyone tells you, you will never achieve perfect synchronized z lift. I have modified my Pulse to lift two z-axis T8 lead screws with one - 48mm stepper placed under the printer. I have successfully printed more than 3000 prints without any change in lift between the two z steppers. I will post all instructions and printed files online so that you can modify your pulse.

    Lastly, even with the new firmware, the Azteeg control board is still buggy. It seems like it has memory issues. And after 80 or more emails between Matterhackers and myself, there is no solution. So I will post another how to article on converting the Pulse to use the new Duet3D Mini 5+ board. You will have infinite control over your printer and will never have to compile Marlin again.

  • @tinken Interresting. As mine is apart I was considering going to closed loop motors on the steppers and go to an SKR board . But right now I got more important projects

  • @tinken Thanks for this information. I bought the Pulse XE with the 32 bit upgrade too, and have had mixed results. It seemed to do a lot better printing Carbon X than Ryno, petg or PLA.

    I would be very interested in anything that can improve the performance.

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