How to mesh bed level when printing from SC card
I don't see an option in the mattercontrol software to "include bed level". Has anyone with a pulse printer been able to successfully print from an SD card? Every time I try to use the SD card, the nozzle is too close to the bed and won't print a first layer. I've tried adjusting the Z-offset and the Z baby stepper function on the LCD with no luck. I can't tie up a computer for printing. This would also open the door for using another slicer in the future. Any help or thoughts would be great.
HAMprinter last edited by
When you export, open up the .txt file and check if the first line is, "; Software Leveling Applied". thats how it reads on my export file.
yoseg last edited by
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@hamprinter I'll try that tonight when I get home to see what it says. I was able to get a file to print by resetting the Z offset, so at least the filament could extrude and the first layer was solid. Are you using matter control to slice your files to get the "software leveling applied"? I wonder if I could get your thoughts on your experience using the pulse and mattercontrol. Have you used any other slicers? if so, are they better or worse than mattercontrol? I ask as I am only about a month into my printing with the pulse and am deciding if I should keep the pulse or potentially go with another printer, possibly the Prusa. Part of my issues with the printer has been some bad filament that hasnt performed well. When I got some better filament, I have been able to print some good looking pieces, but I need the SD working reliably. Any help or thoughts you can share would be much appreciated.
@tterickson67 Imo Most slicers are better than Mattercontrol. The only nice thing MC has is the bed leveling and that is necessary for some printers (like the pulse) So for my pulse I sliced in Prusa slicer and then run the gcode through mc for bed leveling only.
@mpirringer Does that mean you slice it in Prusa, then drop the gcode file in MC and then print (tethered) to your pulse? Is there a way to take advantage of the bed leveling from MC with a pulse through another slicer using an SD card? It seems like if I want to use the SD card ability with the pulse, I have to slice it in MC? I'm still new to all this so if you have any advice on how to do this, please let me know.
@hamprinter My Gcode files do have the "software leveling applied". That was helpful to see. I've been able to successfully get things to print with the SD card using MC as the slicer. Is there a way to get the bed leveling to work and applied through another slicer using an SD card?
On the Prusa printers, how does it apply the bed leveling to the prints using a SD card?
@tterickson67 You can slice in any slicer then load the gcode file in MC and either print tethered or save it to an SD card and make sure the "apply bed leveling" is checked. I have not tried it with a recent version but you couldn't save it to the same file name in the same directory. IOW if I had c:\gcode\myfile.gcode then I had to save it to something like C:\gcode\myotherfile.gcode which is good practice anyway I usually hang an _b at the end for bedleveled It also prevents you from double bed leveling one which would mess it up
nekej last edited by
emiliadavid last edited by
I'm also facing this issue, can someone help me to resolve this issue? I have some B3 Bomber Shearling Jacket images in my SD card and i want to print them, but i can't.
jflyden last edited by
@mpirringer So I have also been struggling with mattercontrol slicing... when slicing using prusa slicer would you have any beginning code or end code designated in the slicer? Can you walk me through the process in more detail? I have 2 Pulse and 1 mrk3s. The prusa just works and the Pulse is a major pain in the... I believe most of my issues may be due to mattercontrol.... Matterhackers customer service is not helpful. ultimately I would like to print from SD.
@jflyden Beginning and ending code is the same no matter what the slicer is so you can just copy and paste from MC Also set it to expert and there is a thing somewhere for "flavor" set it to marlin as your printers are based on that. The only other thing you will have to do is define a custom printer and name it whatever you want and set the build volume dimensions here is my start code
G28 ; home all axes
G0 X5 Y5 Z1.2 F1800
G1 X230 E50 Z1.2 F900
And my end code
; Retract and move away
G1 E-[retract_length] F1200
G0 X5 Y210 F1200
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0 ; turn off heat bed
M106 S0 ; turn off layer fan
M84 ; disable motors
jflyden last edited by
Thanks for the help on my issue. I was able to get it to work using your suggestion. i am having an issue with the print quality using the PrusaSlicer Gcode. Curves printed with the Pulse using the same code as Prusa are very jagged. Would you have any idea why this would be? I'm also curious if you know why mesh bed leveling doesn't work outside of MatterControl? Have they done something to the firmware to prevent using anything but MatterControl?
mpirringer last edited by mpirringer
@jflyden Seems that way in regards to mesh bed leveling. As for jagged curves.... Sorry I never experienced that except with a very low resolution stl. All my settings in PS are custom though that means I started in "expert" mode with setting up a custom printer and taking it from there. I don't want to make any claims on current versions of the pulse as mine is/was a C version and IDK what they have done since. I originally paid the extra $$$ for the pulse to have something that was "good to go" out of the box and in hindsight that was a mistake as any subsequent printer I got that cost less than 1/2 of the pulse had way less problems than the pulse so I stopped following what exactly they did - plus there never was a "Here is how you turn your C model into a D or whatever other letter they are up to." Right now my pulse is apart and is waiting for me to have nothing better to do than turn it into a properly functioning printer. There were serious problems with the C model that prevented it to do what I bought it for mainly to print at higher temperatures for extended periods of time. For that for starters the PSU was grossly underpowered so the Pulse became parts when the PSU had a "melt down" for the 2nd time after the warranty expired. The stock hotend mounts were RYNO and they melted down and deformed when you printed at 280ish nozzle and 100 bed and printed a bigger part. The fan part cooling was a problem as if you had a bridge close to the bed and the fan turned on with bed at 100 nozzle 260 like when printing ABS or HIPS you caused a thermal runaway way too often as you could not maintain temp. Going to a 40 watt heater at the hotend pushed the PSU over its 15 amp limit. (it says in the mini rambo board manual PSU 16A absolute minimum) then there were wiring problems that caused arcing and there was no fan on the board so if you made an enclosure it overheated (I took that off when I saw the temp on the board climbing. So IOW there was no way to consistantly print for longer periods of time as advertised. OTOH I have an Anycubic Chiron sitting right next to me that I bought sub $500 and all I did replaced the hotend with a Volcano and also easily upgraded some wiring (longer drag chain and high flex silicon wire) and its been working like a beast keeping the bed at 105 to 110 with no thermal runaways, ABS, NYLON, PETG, HIPS all stick extremely well and no thermal runaways when the fan turns on and yes I have some blemishes on the build plate after running 150kg of mostly ABS/HIPS at 260/105 and about 20 kg of Nylon through it - mostly 910. So about a little over a year ago when the pulse died it was either fixing it or buying another printer so we got another Chiron and that performs just as well. We also got a Mega-X and a predator and they are doing well too . Predator is currently getting a mosquito clone as I want to try that one. Sorry for the rant - Start with a clean setup in PS. All the stuff we print is done in PS and yeah currently not printed on a pulse
And oh yeah for the Pulse when I get to it the plan is and enclosure with the electronics outside, a 360 watt PSU at 24 volts and the wiring redone and probably if the tests on the other chiron work out fine a direct drive with an orbiter and a mosquito and a properly designed mount/cooling system. And I am playing with the idea of turning it into a core xy.