So let down...



  • I have been so let down by what I hoped to be a supportive local company. The PulseXE I purchased has never lived up to the $1500 purchase price. The quality has yet to even match my Anet A8 (I have pics if you want). I honestly feel like they have ripped me off.

    I tried to support the community, I even created a thread to help those configure the XE.

    I am so disheartnened, I was able to get/build/print with my other new printer (I will withhold the name) in less than a day.

    Sorry folks, but I have to move on... I will be breaking down the pulseXE to make a decent printer with the parts.



  • Care to elaborate? What about tech support?



  • I found some of your posts. Let me say this to you and I don't know if its going to help. I got a Pulse - almost XE I started with the base and added what I think I needed, V6, Garolite bed Bodentech extruder and would up at about 1150. MH does not credit you for an option they take out it seems and I knew for example I wasn't going to do abrasives so why spend on a ruby nozzle. Now it is true there is a lot of room for improvement on the pulse

    WE use it for robotics in a school setting and we also have access to a Makerbot Replicator+ that the district paid 2500 bucks for and I can tell you the Pulse breaks less often than that - about as much as the Airwolf axiom upstairs - yet still every time it breaks its a big pain especially as most the breakage is avoidable. So on the bad side we had the Pulse back at MH 2x for warranty repair on the good side we had more than 40kg worth of filament turned into good prints. Most of them big.

    Lately tech support is swamped at MH and I hope they fix that as it has become almost impossible to get through and if you email their response timese have gotten pretty long

    Now I would not turn the Pulse into a pile of parts but there are ways to fix that - I got a list of things I can't do atm as it would void the warranty but some already have been done by them

    make sure no wires coming out of the electronics box are just dangling - especially the bed wire as that will cause arcing and destroy the connector on the mini rambo. so tie that down with a wire tie. to give it strain relief the bed wire/thermistor should have a drag chain underneath but that will require the wires to be extended and void the warranty I have been told. Also all heater wires should be at least 14 gauge or lower.

    All the wiring should be gone over and tied to the frame so nothing is dangling.

    The Bodentech should be turned 90 deg and not pointing up puts too much strain on the PTFE tube and it will pop out way too often or ther should at least be a strain relief there.

    Filament ot sensor is too tight for the switch and sometimes leaves it depressed even if there is no filament in there and so sometimes don't work - needs to be redesigned

    Hotend mount needs to be redesigned and printed out of something that is not RYNO currently some of the parts I printed out of HIPS namely the ones that are close to the bed - otherwise you do a big hips or ABS prit with the bed at 100 and the bottom of the fan shroud will deform from the heat of the bed. The fan even when perfect blows too much onto the nozzle or the bed you can't keep the nozzle at 270 and bed at 85 + if the fan is at 100% 60% max will work at any temp. The leg of the BL touch is unprotected and I currently level manually as every time a print comes loose I lost a leg and replacing it 3x is enough for me. The wires in the back of the heater block also need protecting so that should be designed differently too.

    Otherwise its a standard Prusa design its a prusa clone with the same parts that the prusa uses and the same type of frame. All the above mentioned problems you can find mentioned on the Prusa forums and quite a few others that have that type of design like Creality, Tevo etc etc.

    I hope they catch up support wise and fix the wiring and other things I outlined on the pulse. Its a good concept to offer a cutom built printer and if done right it can be worth the extra bucks. Right now they are playing catch up to Prusa though maybe as they have gotten in that tech support bind.

    We are getting ready to buy a 2nd printer and its not going to be a pulse but a CR10 S5 which we going to mod with a better bad and a Volcano etc as for our needs (we are printing for a 32x28x50 inch robot) the biggest shortcoming of the pulse has wound up being the print volume. I hope you can get yours fixed to the point to have fun printing with it - as for your Anet A8 - I guess you are lucky it hasn't caught fire yet those are electrically the least sound printers and therefore been crossed of our list


  • MatterHackers

    @thekidrio

    I am sorry that your experience with the Pulse XE has been what it is, I would normally be here to assist but due to a number of factors, my attention to this community has lapsed quite a bit. I see that you had sent us an email recently regarding issues with the machine. I had not responded as I should have and for that, I apologize. I have tasked one of my team members with reaching out to you and seeing if we can be of assistance.

    We do not ever want a member of our community or a customer to ever feel like we have left them in the dark but unfortunately, it looks like we have failed you here. We want to do our best to make this right for you, please let me know if there is anything I can do for you in the meantime.



  • I was able to replace a few parts and getting working enough for me to donate it to a local maker spot.

    Sorry for my abrasiveness, frustration got the best of me.



  • @mpirringer said in So let down...:

    Hotend mount needs to be redesigned and printed out of something that is not RYNO currently some of the parts I printed out of HIPS namely the ones that are close to the bed - otherwise you do a big hips or ABS prit with the bed at 100 and the bottom of the fan shroud will deform from the heat of the bed. The fan even when perfect blows too much onto the nozzle or the bed you can't keep the nozzle at 270 and bed at 85 + if the fan is at 100% 60% max will work at any temp. The leg of the BL touch is unprotected and I currently level manually as every time a print comes loose I lost a leg and replacing it 3x is enough for me. The wires in the back of the heater block also need protecting so that should be designed differently too.

    Thanks for all the info! yeah I lost a few bl touch legs too, I ended up designing a small switch that would raise a magnet and springs would pull the touch down and then after leveling would lower the magnet and pull the sensor back up just a few mm and that seemed to be a nice tweak.


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