Michael, thanks for the reply. I'll put some flex in the printer sometime in the next couple of days and take a picture of the first layer. I have measured my build plate with an indicator and I know that I'm out about .020" from one side to the other. I'm not running auto level in Cura (I don't know how so if someone does, please help there too) so I know that isn't helping matters either. I plan on shimming my bed to fix that issue but I know that isn't the only problem that I have. I print NylonX no problem, parts come out great (I would have to say somewhat comparable to the prints that we get at work on our Markforged printer so I am content on my NylonX prints). So, given that NylonX is good and TPU is bad, I have to assume that I have some setting issues. I'll get a list of my settings to in my next post.
I've been talking with MatterHackers support and they sent me some starting G-Code that you can use assuming you have a 'D' model Pulse. (I think the sticker is on the back of the gantry with the model number)
I have not yet had a chance to test it yet, but this is what they sent:
G28 ; home all axes
M280 P0 S160 ; clear probe status
M280 P0 S10 ; deploy probe
G29 ; run firmware mesh leveling
M280 P0 S90 ; retract probe
G1 X15 Y10 Z0.8 F1800 ; move to front corner of bed
G92 E0 ; reset extruder position
G1 X100 Z0.3 E20 F900 ; purge hot end
G92 E0 ; reset extruder position
G1 E-2 F3600 ; retract filament
You can change or delete anything after "M280 P0 S90" if you don't want to use the purge line.
The patch was not released to the Stable build yet so you will have to update to the Alpha version of the software to get the patch.
Let us know if you do happen to still have issues after upgrading to the Alpha.
That's really cool of you to make the profile and post it. Although I do not have an S3D account for work I hope it can be verified by another user of ours here and hopefully all your work is appreciated by the community!
The print history removes from an SQLite database, but on my browser, it shows again and again that makes me challenging, I get Firefox support number for my help that gives the correct way to solve this.
Here is where I am at now:
Phil looks pretty good, the grey one is the new one, the black one is the one from the factory. I am getting close. There is an issue with the hands on my version.
You can see the hands did not fuse together well, a little spaghetti.
Then I printed the calibration circle that comes with MatterControl.
The bottom was perfect!
The top not so much.
Then I did the finishing test and that turned out pretty good! Minor blobs (running too hot maybe) and the tip of the pyramid did not stick.
Okay here we go. I put things back together and started calibrating again.
A little elephant foot action, some gaps in the top layer.
Then a benchy:
This is the worst side, odd dents, seems like an extrusion/temp issue maybe.
The Mini Torture Test (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429
Not great, for comparison here is one from my Anet A8:
Plans: up retraction to 6mm from 4mm AND to move this to a calibration thread. Thank you all for your help!
Just kind of an update to this:
I started seeing this error more often when I started cleaning the bed surface with a combination of rubbing alcohol and Costco cleaning wipes, followed by Aquanet (purple can) hairspray for priming the surface, while it was preheating. I'm using a borosilicate bed surface lined with a thermal pad sheet. I heat the bed up to 90C for printing PETG, and it's intermittent. If I can reproduce this on a more consistent basis I'll keep you guys posted. I usually have a workaround of disconnecting the printer from MatterControl and reconnecting, continue to preheat, and so far the error seems to clear.
@kagekitsune The Pulse is made to be easily upgraded. If you do decide to swap out components, let us know and we can send you the updated firmware to flash. As far as the filament fan goes, it does well in covering all the part where the deposition is occurring. This allows for curing of the filament where it is needed.
As to removing a big flat part from the bed. I usually get a spatula under one part of the print and slowly work it in and across the side of the print. You will hear the print come up off the bed. If you work your way around the print and then more and more into the center you can get the print off with no damage to the bottom. For me it is usually just about moving slow enough to ensure nothing has too much pressure on it.
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