@lado Look the bed temo can only change a degree up or down every few seconds. So what you displayed in your video is definitely an intermittent contact. I printed over 70kg on my pulse last year and I went through 2 thermistors on the bed and a set of power wires and whatever MH replaced when I sent it back under warranty. And I always had the same result. So I would not try to print it with the bed off and clamp it as there is too much of a chance for the nozzle getting caught as the slicer sometimes moves the nozzle outside the print area for whatever reason. and then you could still knock it loose and/or get an XY shift. And Nylonx is not on the cheap side either plus the time you loose. Cant give you a pic atm as I am redesigning/rebuilding my pulse and we are currently doing all of our prints on the 2 anycubic Chirons we have.
@pverdin Good Idea. Was printing some prototypes today and for that I usually use filament that I either bought very inexpensive or got for free. It was a reasonably large part - going through the iterations - About 1/2 kg of Filament. So one iteration I printed in Hobby King ABS that I picked up for 4.87/kg looked real nice except its a hideous color. The Other was a spool of Free Prusament PLA I got at the ERRF 2019. That warped all over the place. So I will also stay away from PLA.
Is it possible to get the tweaks the OP made for this to add on to his profile? While I think that some of the features inside Matter Control are cool I'm finding that it isn't that great of a slicer as Cura or S3D.
Its most likely the wiring. Mine came without strain relief and wired in a way that the back and forth movement of the bed wiggled the connector and caused arcing and also eventually broke some wires So check for that with a meter
When I upgraded the bed from 200 X 200 to 315 X 315, using the 12v supply it took 12-15 minutes to heat to 60c.
By upgrading to another 24v supply It now takes 4-5 mins to heat to 80c.
Not sure but I think the bed is rated to 110c.
Thanks, I'll check that out! Yah I got this printer mostly for those types of filaments so that way I didn't have to mess with changing things out on my other printers to do it. Just trying to get it dialed in a bit tighter but I suppose I should be using the filament I got it for lol. Using some Ryno and Nylon X so far, as well as testing with some PLA.
I just need to figure this thing out and get it adjusted accordingly, it's close, but I'm need to do some more work
Thanks again for the replies, I'll check it all out.
Check the connector on the Rambo mini board. I had the same thing. Mine came with the bed wire just hanging out of the box without strain relief now your bed keeps going back and forth and with that wiggles the connector which starts arcing and destroys the connector on the board. Pull the connector off if the one on the board is cracked or discolorated or shows other signs of arcing than this is the problem. Also watch the led - if you set the temp for lets say 80 and it say less than 76 and the light is not solid but off or blinking then you have temporarily no connection of power to the bed. also check the power at the bed. when you are heating. Set it to 80 and put a meter at the bed while its heating up it should get close to 12 Volts. If it does not check the voltage at the power imput plug if its low there too then its cause the PS cannot keep up. the Rambo mini instructions states a PS of >16 amps and the Pulse supply is 15A so if you heat both the hotend and Bed you run the PS at 100% and over so that is not too good if you want it to last. If there is no strain relief and the connectors are still fine - put some strain relief there. The PS should be at 12V or slightly above all the time. If you have the PS with the Din type plut then each pin is rated at 7.5 A max and the bed draws more than that.
I am afraid we do not see the photo you are trying to upload, could you give it another shot?
Generally, you would want a first layer to look flat and "Squished" together.
I look forward to seeing the photo and helping out!
Suggest you call tech support on this. I know hobby king sells belts and they are sold as 3d printer belt cause seems like they all use the same size - but I'd call MH just to make sure. Otherwise mine loops through the bracket and flips ove on itself so its own teeth engage and you either got a bracket or a zip tie or something like that to keep it engaged
Have not done Nylong but sometimes that happens to me with other Nylons so...
1.) I print most Nylons with bed at least 80
2.) Big Brim
3.) Up the extrusion on the 1st layer
4.) Decrease the Z offset to press the first layer harder into the bed but not so hard that the extruder skips. If you just print one layer the sheet should not come apart at the layer lines.
I slice with SLIC3R and when I print with a .4 with .2 layer height I print the first layer at .52 and .96 layer width and turn the Z down at least .2 and that works most of the time. Also its summer and it might be humid so dry out some dessecant packets in the oven and 250-275 for 2 hours and throw them into the print dry so you are not blowing hot wet air around the filament.
Also would be interesting how the Gecko sheets work with Nylon Tried to ask a question here in another thread about that but no answer....
@lpinney motors (all of them) generate heat from being powered up.... BUT they cool off when moving due to air flow past the moving parts.
unfortunately if they stop moving the heat cannot dissipate and they heat up.... a problem with this is that the hotter they get the lower the coil resistance, more heat = lower ohms = more heat = lower ohms etc etc... otherwise known as thermal runaway.
ok so that explains the over heating... now its simply(???) a case of why has it stopped turning... something jamming it? friction or foreign matter in the extruder feed/ gearing?....
the flattened filament is probably simply due to the overheat which coupled with no movement causes heat deformation.
likely causes are blockages, foreign matter in the motor/ extruder interface (good posh word that is) or an underpowered motor.....
good luck with the search
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