@bonnie-lair old post i know but just adding my 2 cents in hopes it will help someone, I have used pla settings with only 2 changes to make it work well, Extruder temp 240 degrees Bed temp 75 degrees with a mist of hairspray works well for my PETG
@hythos You have extrusion problems that most of the time happens if there is a gap in your hotend.
If its all metal you most likely have a little gap between the heatbreak and nozzle or if its not all metal between the PTFE tube and nozzle. Take the nozzle out if you see discoloration on the top then discard it (they are very tough to clean properly on top without damaging the top) and then take the hotend apart and clean it. If you have all metal you probably will have to replace the heatbreak too (if it got filament on where it buts with the nozzle - if you got a non all metal - replace the PTFE tube - preferably with a Capricorn. and make sure you cut it properly with a proper tool
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Hi My Pulse XE S-232 (Smoothieware) shows a value on the LCD watch page of >>106%
I have not been able to find documentation anywhere that describes the LCD menu item functionality and the 106% value doesn't seem to match anything in my slice settings - Does anyone know what it is?
Also is there a .PDF that has all the documentation for Matterhacker Pulse printers in one place, or is it only available as disjointed random video's and online "guides?"
I think your problem is NOT PETG but rather printing in general.
Entire print all around looks like crap and you expect it to bridge nicely ?
Good luck with that.
After years of printing i made up one rule:
Rule #1 If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont bother printing the rest.
Rule #2 Obey Rule #1
Your prints look like crap at 1st layer, why do you even continue with the test ?
My PETG prints came out better then ABS or PETG.
With little FAN it makes it look even better.
MatterControl does have a profile for the Prusa i3. During printer setup, click the 'Make' menu and scroll all the way to the bottom and choose 'Other', then in 'Model' choose 'Prusa i3'. Start with the default settings, but check against these: http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Custom_Printer_Profiles#Edit_printer_settings
The types of filaments a printer is able to print comes down to the maximum extruder temperature. In this case, the Mini is only capable of reaching 230°C, so it will not work for Nylon materials. Nylons require 250+.MatterHackers does not carry a printer that is similarly-priced, so it's difficult to recommend a comparable unit. If you are interested in learning more about the printers we carry, please feel free to contact us directly and one of our sales agents can help you narrow down the choices to one that will suit your needs: https://www.matterhackers.com/contact
White PLA tends to require a little more heat than other colors due to the pigment used in the manufacture of the filament. While 185-205C can work for other PLA filaments, 215 is acceptable. If printing at 215 and you still experience clogs, bump up to 220 and give that a try. If you continue to have issues with this filament please email email@example.com and we'll be happy to assist.
Sorry for the delay-- somehow I didn't see a notification for this post. The banding in the pictures isn't layer shifting since it doesn't happen all the way around the part. It looks like more a function of the slicer. In the first picture, it is clear to see how the layers affected near the top of the part are only those during which the hole is being printed. This is probably that these layers are cooling at a different rate than those in the rest of the part, so you could try tweaking cooling settings. What slicer/software are you using?
I found with Simplify3d, Cura and Repetier that I had to change the baud rate to 115200 to successfully connect, i'm guessing it will most likely be the same with MatterControl. Note: i'm using a Win 10 machine. Also you could try using the drivers found here.
I have been looking into increasing temperatures on the internet much more, and I have realized that the post I read in a forum it was just someone too scared of cables and changig anything because his printer didn't stand the changes. I wonder what he did to the machine. I have found an all metal Mk8 extruder, so I will try with it. It would be better than changing the hot end, wouldn't it? The support needed looks similar.
thats right forgot about that tho its not using any gui or output like hdmi wander if any info on amp draw when its running in console only mode.... (just looked up ok this isnt going to work tho a pi uses little amps when not running a full gui the usb ports with a wifi dongle will.)ok looks like a change of plans ill do direct to 12v from psu and use a voltage regulator to step down to 5v.but to be sure ill have to test the draw and see what the pie is actually using at full tilt printing with Repetier-Server if its 800 or less should be ok to power the pie.thanks for schematic not sure how i missed that.will update with what i find out.(Update: Well that didn't take long to figure out MX1 VCC and GND tho is 5v the rambo won't be able to supply the power so will have to use a voltage regulator just so happens i checked my parts draw and i have a few DC-DC Buck Converters bought a 10 pack on sale some time ago and forgot about them )
I got the Prusa Hephestos from Matterhackers around a year ago and enjoy using it but really wanted to upgrade to a heated bed and honestly it was a bit of a pain for calibrating so I added to my printer "family" the new MK2. It took forever to get (7 weeks), even longer to assemble (day and change) and I brilliantly managed to clog it a few prints in. *shakes her fist at the spool of wood filament!!!* but it's been a nice unit otherwise with a moderate learning/experimenting curve. I think if I get bored with my two and want a third to tinker with I would seriously consider the Pulse. It has a lot of appealing upgrade options but my favorite feature is having someone else assemble it! Although it is a fun challenge, assembling from scratch can really be miserable for a newbie as I learned the hard way.
Personally, I would not consider the Rostock for a beginner (note, I am speaking from experience using the v1, so I could be wrong about the latest v3, take this advice with a grain of salt). When I had picked up my v1, it kept jamming and the movement of the arms were showing slop (kept sticking or overshooting, depending on very slight adjustments to its tightness), it wasn't until I bought a few upgrades from Trick Laser (brand new arms) and got a new hotend (E3D v6 I think) that things started to go smoothly. That being said, I've been a 3D printer hobbyist for a while now, and I still have trouble printing large objects due to warping and splitting, so having such a large build volume doesn't necessarily mean better. I will say it's not so pleasing having to cancel a 15 hour print when you're about 5 hours into it.As for the LulzBot, never had it, but it looks like a pretty standard Cartesian model. For the price, though, it seems a bit expensive for what it gives you out of the box.If I were to recommend anything, I would probably suggest the Flashforge Creator Pro. It has a smaller build area, but for the price (less than $1000) and what you get directly out of the box (Dual extruders, heated platform, enclosed build area, LCD + SD card reader, two random 1kg rolls of filament, etc) it is totally a steal. Most of the features it comes with would have costed you extra making those upgrades anyway. Even though it is pretty cheap, they did not sacrifice part quality; I have had no urge to upgrade anything except the spool holder arms (since they only fit Flashforge brand spools), luckily the arms detach and replacements can be 3D printed.- Lochemage
The forum post to which you refer was posted seven months ago, and progress has been slow for support for the Dreamer/PowerSpec Ultra. It won't be ready for the next version of MatterControl slated to be released at the end of this month, unfortunately, but we'll continue to work on it. As such, I can't say it will be ready "soon" but perhaps in the version following this next one.Edit: link
This is something we have seen before. The fix is already in the code and will be available in the next release (1.6). If you need to use it now, you can download the experimental version. Beware, though many other things are broken in the experimental release.
I always encourage people to build kits if they are willing, since it is such a good learning experience and gives you the ability to fix the printer yourself when things go wrong. It is also by far the most economical way to get into 3D printing. You can get a kit for roughly half the cost of an equivalent preassembled machine.I've never dealt with the HICTOP or Alunar kits, but they are all based on the Prusa i3, which is probably the most popular 3d printer out there. This means it will be very easy to get help and find replacement or upgrade parts. We sell an i3 kit made by BQ, which I like because it comes with very good instructions.Unless a kit specifically says it has an all metal hot end, it probably doesn't. Your ability to print different materials will by limited by the maximum temperature of your hot end. I wouldn't worry too much about HIPS, though, since it prints at the same temperatures as ABS.Most printers are capable of 100 micron layers (0.1 mm) but we normally print at 200 microns (0.2 mm).
I’m a service engineer. Problems like this are common for me. And sorry for you to hear a clear „No“ on my behalf - there is no common or usual way to get a machine up and running. I went over 20 iterations or more, which is normal for custom made machines.
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